tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-268430752024-03-13T01:05:04.589-04:00Kelly WrageKellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.comBlogger34125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-877601754605383492019-02-08T20:51:00.003-05:002023-01-29T03:19:05.737-05:00If there is a moral to this story, I have no idea what it is...yet<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSRzMIP8GqH-sZvbQLT_6Cu0_NPymfk1zOjyE0d-M6rUdqmGu779FP53JvgwleU1v1tJt6LlTEWI2Yzhw-lJ5FIeQk5pMgcj3iQtShQlshN8GGGY7lOZZmtm9Ahq81Dx8mSf4H/s1600/linenoverlace.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="746" data-original-width="648" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSRzMIP8GqH-sZvbQLT_6Cu0_NPymfk1zOjyE0d-M6rUdqmGu779FP53JvgwleU1v1tJt6LlTEWI2Yzhw-lJ5FIeQk5pMgcj3iQtShQlshN8GGGY7lOZZmtm9Ahq81Dx8mSf4H/s400/linenoverlace.jpg" width="345" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Linen Over Lace</td></tr>
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<span class="s1">This summer will mark six years for me working with the gumoil process. It has been an interesting journey with experiences that were both good and bad. Most people who have come to me looking for help seem to want to believe that once they have been taught the steps for making a print that they will find quick success. That just doesn’t happen with a process like gumoil. There are too many learned subtleties that take time to thoroughly understand. Through the increased interest in gumoil printing, certainly fueled by the beautiful prints made by Anna Ostanina, I’ve had the pleasure of speaking with quite a few truly decent people with engaging stories of their own. There have also been the occasional odd ones and even a couple of truly bad ones, but overall, my experiences dealing with people over the internet because of the gumoil process have been overwhelmingly positive.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span></div>
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<span class="s1">One thing I have found talking with people who are new to the process is that many are looking for that magic bullet that will get them a great looking print quickly and easily. It doesn’t exist. This is one of those processes that takes time to get to know. There is a certain amount of “muscle memory”, for lack of a better term, that you develop as you figure things out. There are those great “aha!” moments, and the somewhat defeating “but I could have sworn…!” ones that you find yourself in as you look at the hot mess staring back at you from your sink.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">My own path through the process was difficult because Koenig’s book was not available to me, and there were no other instructions online aside from his YouTube video which, as online videos often are, was just too simplified to truly convey the subtle mechanics of each step of the process. After a lot of trial and error, successes and failures, I had to let it go for a few months, but when I went back to it again everything was mysteriously working. I got it to the point where all I had to do was wipe the excess paint off of a print at the table, let it soak for several minutes in warm water, then spray it with warm water to achieve what was a nearly perfect print all on its own. “Nearly”, in the sense that I wanted the dichromate tone in the highlights to be brighter so the whole print would show more contrast and “pop” more. I would give the print a quick bleach etch, wash it, allow it to dry, apply a second coat of paint, wipe off the excess at the table, soak it, spray it, and give it one last flash in the bleach etch before rinsing and doing a very gentle selective clearing with a brush or loosened up cotton ball to clear paint haze from certain areas. I had no idea why it was working until I realized I had been using the wrong ratio of dichromate to gum arabic in my sensitizing solution for the gum layer. I was using a 1:2 mixture instead of Koenig’s 1:3. From there I began to understand that different papers and paints worked better with different solutions, and this discovery led to further adjustments in my image using the HDR (mostly shadows and highlights) features in Photoshop to get a good overall contrast in the image so that it would hold up during the process. After a few years of testing different methods of executing the various steps, my work has continued to evolve and improve.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">I have worked in so many different ways with the process at this point that now I usually just begin with a basic flattening curve for a test print, see what the image is going to do as a gumoil print, then make adjustments from there for the final print. It is different every time, and I have no one set way of making a gumoil print now. I do find, however, that after I’ve been away from the process for a while, that muscle memory I had developed for coating my paper and clearing at the sink has diminished some, and in some ways it can feel like starting over, but it always returns. It has taken a long time to develop this type of relationship with the process.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">I have to give Anna Ostanina a lot of credit for my push forward with this process. After I had gotten to the point where I was getting things to work with a bleach etch, I was going to put a tutorial online because there simply was none, and at the time I also felt that I had simplified the process and perhaps even improved it a little. Then I saw Anna’s work, and my prints were so sad by comparison. I was devastated at first, but then I found myself inspired to push what I had learned even further. I don’t know that I would have tried to do this if I hadn’t seen her work and how far she had come with the process. So, I dove further into Photoshop to work more with image contrast and flattening curves to get even better overall contrast in my processed gum layer. This allowed me to have a more complete tonal range while still being able to simply spray my prints after wiping off the excess paint at the table and a good soak in warm water to get a fully realized print. I started using either potassium or sodium metabisulfite to brighten the highlights instead of bleach if I wanted to stop processing at this point. This allowed my prints to hold onto more detail that would have otherwise been lost in that first bleach etch, which would then require a second application of paint, another etch to brighten, etc. If I want to do a bleach etch for an addition of color or some other effect, I can still do that. A change in the paints I use now only requires either a selective wipe of the print while at the sink or an entire print wipe down as Anna does to get a finished gumoil print. I am still inspired by her work, and my own work is better for it.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">As for the less desirable experiences with people, it’s just an internet thing. We’re all brought into contact with different kinds of people every day while we’re here, and we have to take the bad with the good. My experiences have run the gamut from shocking to kind to awful and egregious and back to wonderful again. I’ve been thanked, sometimes profusely, sometimes begrudgingly. I’ve been referred to as a kind and generous person, and I’ve also been (vaguely) accused of plagiarism, (and not at all vaguely accused of) lying, harassment, and bullying.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">I’ve had my research, thoughts and ideas, and some creative writing passages in my tutorials stolen, paraphrased, and used by someone I’d helped with the process and who was probably looking to make a quick and tidy little name for themselves….then I foolishly let myself believe this person was sorry and had learned a hard lesson for themselves….I did this in spite of all the lies Person told to cover up what they had done (truly foolish)….in spite Person's creation of a whole new backstory to their involvement with the process that contradicted every conversation we’d had online…conversations that were all recorded because the internet is forever….was supportive during Person’s claims of feeling bullied…..but then came the tips for what my writing should have been—a pdf or book that people should have to pay for—and not the free blog post that it is….followed by Person's negative comments about the integrity of a friend who had simply suggested that information in Person’s writing had come from me and another more well-known gumoil printer and that this needed to be addressed….then I just stopped responding to Person and went about my business…..then came the claims that I was spreading lies about Person in an effort to hurt their reputation…..which garnered Person support and promotion of their work and other things on social media to counter the awful things that the bad gumoil lady had done to Person—when I had done nothing at all….I had to contact some people to attempt to set the record straight....eventually I got all my ducks in a row and was about to put all of the proof of Person’s nefarious activities online to out them when a friend reminded me that I’d once said that I really didn’t want this situation or Person to be permanently tied to me and my hard work with this process….true, but victim shaming really sucks….</span><br />
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<span class="s1"><span style="color: #cc0000; text-align: start;">(An answer for those who had inquired: Person was forced to rewrite or take down their writing from the site where it had been published. Person did a complete rewrite, and in spite of promising to make things right and while continuing to use some pieces of information taken from me, removed all other traces of my research and information and gave full credit to other people. Though I could have made a stink about it, I decided it was better to simply be fully disconnected from Person, threw up my hands, and walked away.)</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1">That last bit was easily the worst of it, and it had me questioning a lot of what I do as an artist and whether any of this was worth suffering through the shenanigans of the occasional bad apple. Although I do see things differently now than I had before I started on this little gumoil trip, every experience is a learning one, and those things make life better in the long run if you let them. Or, at least that's what I keep telling myself. </span><span class="s2">😀</span><span class="s1"> For now, I think I'll just rely on breathing exercises—in with the good, and out with the bad. In with the good, and out with the bad. If I can figure out how to do it, I'll be turning off comments for this post. </span></div>
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<span class="s1">All prints in this group were made with a 1:3 (pot. dichromate to gum arabic) gum solution; exposed using actinic black light fluorescent tubes for about 5 minutes; gum layers were cleared in water that was on the cool side of tepid, occasionally gently flowing water over the surface of each print and changing the water every 15 minutes for a total of 45 minutes; prints were allowed to dry over night; a mixture of warm tone paints made by M Graham (walnut oil paints) were used for color; excess paint was wiped off at the table after sitting on the paper for just a minute or two; prints were left in warm water to soak for several minutes before spraying and wiping; prints were then placed into a 1% potassium metabisulfite bath for 3 minutes, agitated occasionally, sprayed once again, washed for half an hour, then hung to dry.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbXrCLj8cLxYC9YzIXfIJnJQ7SmIjM-vMDqbEwRIp3T3UbrYA3ul7bRKlUP6P_qggzE9SfYgkdJX4n_PdvCWkD7ekFL3dmUnEwXSTKgnlFkschhy8Wlr8dAYuUkrXXPbrG5_zE/s1600/engulfedintime.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="838" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbXrCLj8cLxYC9YzIXfIJnJQ7SmIjM-vMDqbEwRIp3T3UbrYA3ul7bRKlUP6P_qggzE9SfYgkdJX4n_PdvCWkD7ekFL3dmUnEwXSTKgnlFkschhy8Wlr8dAYuUkrXXPbrG5_zE/s400/engulfedintime.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Engulfed in Time</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS9zr9eatrtsUJO8hd8v34PwJRudwOSkamnOcrl72YxUPqIdJUdOlNARw4rhx017p1gbHiWO0fu1rc79uYLwofLfmsMll7J8Xl03ix0Jnv43KLHmc3f0LiFKSIax67OuixXXG3/s1600/grandmasappletrees.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="818" data-original-width="612" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS9zr9eatrtsUJO8hd8v34PwJRudwOSkamnOcrl72YxUPqIdJUdOlNARw4rhx017p1gbHiWO0fu1rc79uYLwofLfmsMll7J8Xl03ix0Jnv43KLHmc3f0LiFKSIax67OuixXXG3/s400/grandmasappletrees.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grandma's Apple Trees</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho7jfdjY5YNRfZCBEERqC0Z8Esp_SCEEq_1STFzF_UgnvqjhYRS0IJUPVCtrvp_4DS84eUMzyXygLb0rBXTbMm5RWGRLMTF2ck_19DBD18lwP7PB6mdLs0kJImPr38CgkoFDCM/s1600/fourmoonsrecycled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="876" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho7jfdjY5YNRfZCBEERqC0Z8Esp_SCEEq_1STFzF_UgnvqjhYRS0IJUPVCtrvp_4DS84eUMzyXygLb0rBXTbMm5RWGRLMTF2ck_19DBD18lwP7PB6mdLs0kJImPr38CgkoFDCM/s400/fourmoonsrecycled.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Four Moons Recycled</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkcsrkkfZKX5ei_6XtoBrXj5glVZCKQpfGUsRC2isS_YEYTCxHginVPAWRNLcyCicamGBME015nr6KNXtk80XUxhPAjhC_xfIiRWaQ6GgDmJlRJTKs90ceE1JyNIV8KhXrEgKo/s1600/brassrings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="792" data-original-width="621" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkcsrkkfZKX5ei_6XtoBrXj5glVZCKQpfGUsRC2isS_YEYTCxHginVPAWRNLcyCicamGBME015nr6KNXtk80XUxhPAjhC_xfIiRWaQ6GgDmJlRJTKs90ceE1JyNIV8KhXrEgKo/s400/brassrings.jpg" width="311" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brass Rings</td></tr>
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Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-73894429334422983742017-09-02T23:44:00.002-04:002017-09-03T01:37:12.173-04:00Mulling Safflower and Poppy Oil Paint<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "lato" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white;">The US distributor of my favorite safflower and poppy oil lamp black paint for printing with gumoil is moving its warehouse to New England, and that means that this paint is not currently available in any of the online shops that I buy it from. So, I have no alternative but to mull (mix) some of my own right now. I started doing this a while back, but since Maimeri makes a great version of this paint already, I've been quite happy just buying in a tube, all ready to go. Mulling paint is fun, but it's a lot of work, it's messy, and you should always wear protective gear, including a full face respirator mask, because some powdered pigments are highly toxic. </span></span><br />
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Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-13901071229303533212017-02-09T08:07:00.006-05:002023-01-29T03:20:09.233-05:00Gumoil 2.0<div style="line-height: normal;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhppu9Q1Hul2UbmDvh7sVnCbc9PYX5mhpy2FO2SlAT3BND5QzfGkuOwAwzGTpWpmpMWLPsbZhdz5fKIgnBBmpUQ4qSV5l_2nUFKTIjtgP4NAS9M1Dy1VnJUxWX6dE1ntVfL2fMA/s1600/amphitriterejectingthepantheon.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhppu9Q1Hul2UbmDvh7sVnCbc9PYX5mhpy2FO2SlAT3BND5QzfGkuOwAwzGTpWpmpMWLPsbZhdz5fKIgnBBmpUQ4qSV5l_2nUFKTIjtgP4NAS9M1Dy1VnJUxWX6dE1ntVfL2fMA/s640/amphitriterejectingthepantheon.jpg" width="332" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">9x17 inches, Arches Platine,<br />
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<span face="'helvetica neue', arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="color: blue; font-size: large;">(Since I work in several different mediums, I am planning on shifting most of my work with gumoil to a blog devoted entirely to that process. the new blog is called </span><a href="https://thegumoilblog.blogspot.com/" style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">The Gumoil Blog</span></a><span face="'helvetica neue', arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="color: blue; font-size: large;">.)</span><br />
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<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">(This gumoil tutorial is an update to the previous one and has new information regarding gum bichromate solutions and transparency types and the custom curves I’ve made for myself for them. I have cut out some of the extraneous blog talk in an effort to be clearer and more concise.)</span></div>
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<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: 14px;">I first heard about the gumoil process in July of 2013. I was introduced to it during an advanced alternative processes workshop led by my friend and go-to mentor for all things alt pro, Christopher James. C</span></span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: 14px;">hristopher asked Cotton Miller, his assistant for the workshop, to do a quick gumoil demonstration because he had become quite familiar with this elusive process while using it for some of his MFA work, creating a series of beautiful and haunting portraits of Boston subway commuters. At the time, I had no idea just how frustrating gumoil could be, but after a few years of trial and error, I have found ways of reining it in. My work was included in The Book of Alternative Photographic Processes, Third Edition, by Christopher James.</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 14px;"> </span></span><span style="line-height: normal;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">You can </span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">buy it</span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Book-Alternative-Photographic-Processes/dp/1285089316/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452457040&sr=8-1&keywords=christopher+james%20So%20many%20processes,%20so%20little%20time." target="_blank">here</a> at Amazon</span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">.</span></span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="line-height: normal;"></span></div>
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<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-kerning: none;">The process was developed in 1990 by painter, printmaker and photographer, Karl Koenig, who lived and worked in New Mexico. Unfortunately, Mr Koenig passed away in 2012, but he left behind a legacy of beautiful artwork, including many gumoil and photogravure prints. The Photographers' Formulary has a great bio of him that you can read <a href="http://www.gumoil.com/wp-content/uploads/Karl-Koenig-February2012NL.pdf" target="_blank">here</a>. Also, an artist statement by Mr Koenig can be found <a href="http://www.gumoil.com/koenig-bio/" target="_blank">here</a>, and his website contains many images of his gumoil and photogravure prints that can be found <a href="http://www.gumoil.com/" target="_blank">here</a>. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>The process, in brief</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The gumoil process begins with a positive image on transparency film. This positive is placed in contact with a layer of typically uncolored gum bichromate to create a negative gum bichromate print. This gum layer acts as a resist to oil paint that is applied after the gum layer has dried and fully hardened. Excess paint is removed after being allowed to sit on the paper for a few to several minutes. This leaves the hardened gum areas lighter than the areas where there was little to no gum and where the paint has been able to get into the paper. The print is soaked in water then either wiped clean and left as is or "etched" with bleach to clear away some of the gum, exposing the paper underneath making another pass of paint possible. Each step of the process is always finished with a cool water running water rinse to remove excess chemicals and to clear away unwanted gum or paint film.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>The positive transparency</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The gumoil process uses a positive transparency for the gum layer rather than a negative, so that what we end up with is a gum bichromate print in negative form. The areas containing hardened gum bichromate will resist paint, allowing the highlights and even some middle tones to be wiped clear of paint. The white (or whatever color paper you are using) areas in the gum bichromate layer will be the shadow areas in the final gumoil print, and they need to be free of any gum resist so that the paint can get onto the paper. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Because gum bichromate tends to have a very limited tonal range (around 6 stops), you need to compress your highlights and shadows into a small space by lowering the contrast of the image. In other words, if you used a normal positive image for your transparency, with a normal tonal range from deepest black to whitest white, including subtle tones in those areas and in between, you would lose detail at one end or the other during exposure. If you exposed your gum print for enough time to get what will be the darkest visible details in your shadow areas to print, your highlight details will be overexposed, becoming washed out and showing no detail in the final print. The opposite is true if you expose for your highlights, so you need to find a good middle ground. And, because a gumoil print will be getting wiped or bleach etched for clearing, it is very lossy in terms of detail. You need to focus on maintaining (exaggerating, really) your finer details while making your positive transparency if those details are important to you. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>The following is an outline of three different methods I use to create positive transparencies for my gumoil prints. All of my editing work is done in Photoshop CC, and I print my positive transparencies on Pictorico Ultra Premium OHP Transparency Film.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>1. The most serendipitous route:</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I use a curve that I’ve been using for my gum bichromate prints to lower the contrast (compress the tonal range). This method is the quickest but also the most prone to faults. It tends to allow the loss of the fine details in an image because testing and care aren’t taken to ensure those details make it to the final print with proper test printing and a curve that has been properly tailored to fit the various elements in the process. It does, however, usually give me half decent print, or at the very least, something to play with.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">First, I usually use the Shadows/Highlights feature in Image-Adjustments to make the details in my image pop a little, simply because I know that they will tend to get lost with this process. After I have gotten my image to where I like the look of it, and working in grayscale, I apply my simple gum curve (see “Simple Gum Curve image) that lowers the contrast, convert to RGB, then print my positive transparency. I adjust my exposure time as needed for different papers and gum solutions. I can use this for gumoils that I will either be printing in multiple passes of paint and etching with bleach or if I’m just looking to do a single pass of paint.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB-pr8h5DaQ0Kxod9I6xFQ2RvedbOIbBsKzGTUVqDvfX8pzuv8e84ZC8KDZ1quQ5_h493KAv0K-H5vmDGD0fxe8iHe6GA8tOOoDSvRyJ83mRe0lZsGyiAgOSEEEdnG89qJsip9/s1600/simple+gum+curve.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB-pr8h5DaQ0Kxod9I6xFQ2RvedbOIbBsKzGTUVqDvfX8pzuv8e84ZC8KDZ1quQ5_h493KAv0K-H5vmDGD0fxe8iHe6GA8tOOoDSvRyJ83mRe0lZsGyiAgOSEEEdnG89qJsip9/s320/simple+gum+curve.png" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simple Gum Curve</td></tr>
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<b>2. A method with a somewhat more predictable outcome, though a little fussy:</b></div>
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Using an image I am happy with and while working in greyscale mode, I add a little of the Shadows/Highlights feature—3-5% for the shadows, and the same for highlights—to define my details. I look at the tonal range in my image using the Eyedropper tool and roughly locate some 5-10%, 50%, 90-95%, and 100% black areas by hovering my Eyedropper over my image and watching the percentages in the “Info” tab in my workspace. I make note of where these percentages are located within the image. I frequently lighten the 100% black using either the Output slider in Levels or in the curve itself. In the curve, this the end point that is “0”—<b>here the black is 0 and white is 255, this is different from the percentages you see with the Eyedropper tool.</b> How much I lighten this varies, but I only make small adjustments to the black because I want a deep black in my final print. I go back to my image with my Eyedropper tool to check on the black percentages (<b>now</b> <b>we are</b> <b>back to percentages</b>) again. I want my 0% black (white, obviously) to remain the same. I want my lightest distinguishable highlight detail, which is usually around 5% before adjusting, to now be around 20%. I want my 50% to be either the same, or a little bit darker than it was before adjustments. 60% is fine. I want my darkest distinguishable shadow detail, which usually starts at 90-95%, to be around 85%, and I want my 100% black to either remain the same, or be somewhere around 90-95% black. I go back to Shadows/Highlights and make more small adjustments to the image, typically starting at 3-5% for the shadows and 2-5% for the highlights. Doing this will add more contrast back into the whole image, so I often have to lower the image contrast again using a curve that is less pronounced than the first. Sometimes I have to go back and forth like this a few times to get a good combination of image detail and overall low contrast.<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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This works for both multiple pass and single pass prints, though I usually don’t lower the overall image contrast as much with a multiple pass print as I do a single pass print. An image that hasn’t had the contrast lowered as much as a single pass print can handle a slightly longer exposure, which I will want to do if the print is going to be etched and have more paint applied.<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>3. The most reliable method for making a gumoil transparency; time consuming in the short term, but a great help in the long term:</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">This method involves making a curve that is customized to fit my paper, transparency type, gum solution, and my exposure unit, giving me a good tonal range with a particular combination of elements in mind. It is the method I use most frequently now because I can just plug in my curve and proceed, usually with only minor adjustments after a test print.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In Photoshop, I grab an image of my 21 step grayscale wedge, add my simple gum curve to it while in greyscale mode, then convert my image to RGB and print my positive. There are numerous instructions online for making a grayscale step wedge (also called step tablets), and they are quite easy to make. You can also find some with 11 steps, but I prefer 21 because it represents greater detail. After printing my step wedge positive, I make a series of test gum bichromate prints with it (more on making the gum layer later), giving each a different exposure time. After applying paint and processing the prints, I look at my shadow areas. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAs4oh_xhAGA5nb6UHsnBU_ePGwFS-GDUWUKKGYU2Lu3Ojbh3Iy7BnQTvTMbFFjGBXE5WKEEDG_whSU06WEFizp304YWpbhbZ3D5RiOCJVGwEz5eAuRx77z1q52UJVHzuiLnD7/s1600/21step_withgradient.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="77" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAs4oh_xhAGA5nb6UHsnBU_ePGwFS-GDUWUKKGYU2Lu3Ojbh3Iy7BnQTvTMbFFjGBXE5WKEEDG_whSU06WEFizp304YWpbhbZ3D5RiOCJVGwEz5eAuRx77z1q52UJVHzuiLnD7/s320/21step_withgradient.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">21 Step Wedge</td></tr>
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The details in the darker end of the tonal range in gumoil tend to get very blocked up and muddy, so finding an exposure time that works best for this part of the step wedge then adjusting the curve to get the lighter end looking right is what works best for me. I do this whenever testing different gum bichromate solutions or when I add a color layer to my positive for density. Exposure times among gumoil printers can vary pretty widely, with some people exposing for as little as 2 or 3 minutes and others for more than 20 minutes. Finding an exposure time that works well for you and your situation will take a little trial and error before you nail it down. </div>
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The first thing I look for is a rich 100% black with at least a few other steps in the wedge printing some tone. If I am only getting some grayish tones in the darker end and nothing but a little bit of grain in the lighter end, I shorten my exposure time. Once I have that 100% dark black and a few (hopefully several) other darker steps printing a deep tone, I keep this as my exposure time. Then, using Curves in Photoshop, I start pulling down my mid tones and highlights until I get a good range in my step wedge prints. I raise my darker tones by very small increments to open them up as necessary. <span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Though this process can take some time and effort, once you have created a good custom curve for your own situation, it will continue to work well for you. Of course, there are always things that happen that can have an impact on your printing, like humidity, paper changes, paint changes, inconsistencies in gum arabic, etc, but having your custom curve gives you a good starting point to make any adjustments needed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Here is a custom curve I made for myself. It is exclusively for use with a monochromatic (grey) transparency, a 1:2.5 gum solution on Arches Platine exposed for about 6 minutes in my exposure unit, allowed to dry, then coated with a favorite paint mixture of mine using 2 different paints and cleared at the sink using hot water and sodium metabisulfite.</span><br />
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This is the resulting printed step wedge. Though there is still a little muddiness in the 90% and 95% steps in this little print, it is close enough that a slightly shorter exposure time fixed the problem in subsequent prints.<span style="font-size: 14px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2IiDU8YXazNMqErSFjKh1viFhcQq7DPnkbHHdArpH5ZYa0RhLYbdK9mhq2GsbcT468xEob__3iLabE51SvNbsrKDJKmzzguwElQG0-W5ZhErlrHMk1cX2qEZyUUPLPwGaggDm/s1600/greystepwedgeprint.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="54" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2IiDU8YXazNMqErSFjKh1viFhcQq7DPnkbHHdArpH5ZYa0RhLYbdK9mhq2GsbcT468xEob__3iLabE51SvNbsrKDJKmzzguwElQG0-W5ZhErlrHMk1cX2qEZyUUPLPwGaggDm/s320/greystepwedgeprint.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step wedge print for grey transparency and curve</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMEGXTxhdVZRvUPX9QnKQGUkVR_6ZqV3JhFezl0avqlHap7mpQMoUd3XD30BJ5_4gIyRXIJQwjeyzyf8pdI1e2Z_HqhlrZNUdXDSWib1G_9KwFtQd08WveTy1xs8bni0D38uMf/s1600/bellevuedoors_7x7.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMEGXTxhdVZRvUPX9QnKQGUkVR_6ZqV3JhFezl0avqlHap7mpQMoUd3XD30BJ5_4gIyRXIJQwjeyzyf8pdI1e2Z_HqhlrZNUdXDSWib1G_9KwFtQd08WveTy1xs8bni0D38uMf/s320/bellevuedoors_7x7.jpg" width="315" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original image</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3uQju6ttGVW9FL-JasWm0rgu4_fZRy3M1Zn90SaMv4-pJZQ_Oaa_0qFWzjIawMEf11i2VhE7N_SKCY7vJTvxOyjRS_6KgtgYb6mLK6yvKOXS68zxT3QGTkcc9WTyQBcw3pRKr/s1600/bellevuedoors_7x7_gum38_2gumoilcurve_grey.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3uQju6ttGVW9FL-JasWm0rgu4_fZRy3M1Zn90SaMv4-pJZQ_Oaa_0qFWzjIawMEf11i2VhE7N_SKCY7vJTvxOyjRS_6KgtgYb6mLK6yvKOXS68zxT3QGTkcc9WTyQBcw3pRKr/s320/bellevuedoors_7x7_gum38_2gumoilcurve_grey.jpg" width="315" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After curve</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRr5xkFldIKBt4itVdUcy_1NLuTFkEmAi9k6CfT4uduHjwxtHQUerUikdAgEfK10V7uILGviBlilvesOXpTWNLY4YJnjNsa1tQwDNFbizVuy1-OaxMBGDVfNl6c9P3LqFd7iDu/s1600/bellevuedoors_gumlayerscan.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRr5xkFldIKBt4itVdUcy_1NLuTFkEmAi9k6CfT4uduHjwxtHQUerUikdAgEfK10V7uILGviBlilvesOXpTWNLY4YJnjNsa1tQwDNFbizVuy1-OaxMBGDVfNl6c9P3LqFd7iDu/s320/bellevuedoors_gumlayerscan.jpg" width="315" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Dried gum layer</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd7r2sHtGYQoMSFTdbg1qnrfHFtibyGa9xDlA-q83eilwA2tGc5Flt3feBZyL5L8cJ6lgLxXc0grZNGWqAAX_BBKD7GcAI1t-qd5VBdlI17wSD_M4vOvSmMPd7PRasClcmc-tu/s1600/bellevuedoors_small3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd7r2sHtGYQoMSFTdbg1qnrfHFtibyGa9xDlA-q83eilwA2tGc5Flt3feBZyL5L8cJ6lgLxXc0grZNGWqAAX_BBKD7GcAI1t-qd5VBdlI17wSD_M4vOvSmMPd7PRasClcmc-tu/s320/bellevuedoors_small3.jpg" width="312" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished print, Arches Platine, 7.5x7.5 inches</td></tr>
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<b>Adding a color layer to a transparency</b></div>
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Recently, another gumoil printer, Jake Groenhof, shared some of his gumoil prints online. They were very crisp and clean, and his step wedge showed a great tonal range. He told me what he was doing to achieve these results, and I started some new testing using parts of what he was using in his process, notably, adding color to my transparency for density, and using a thinner gum bichromate solution that has a slightly higher contrast than the one I use. The added density allows me to keep my curve in the middle area of the curve grid with an exposure around 8 minutes. This is great because it leaves me room for adjusting the curve for any changes I want to make in paper, paint, exposure time, etc.<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Although I’ve gone a different route than Jake for the color, I find it works very well for me in my working situation using Arches Platine and his gum bichromate solution. For reference, his solution is 1:3 (dichromate:gum arabic), with the addition of 30% (of combined dichromate and gum solution) distilled water. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I open an image file in Photoshop. Working in greyscale, I add a little Shadows/Highlights editing to the image—3-5% for both shadows and highlights, then apply a curve that I have customized specifically for this type of transparency combined with Jake’s solution and Arches Platine (see above for information on creating a curve). I convert the mode to RGB and add a new layer in the layers palette with the mode being color. When the color picker comes up, I put in these numbers: 90=H, 100=S, 55=B and click okay. I got this color information from <b>alternativephotography.com</b> (credit: Clay Harmon) some time ago, and it might have been designed for platinum printing, but it works very well for me here. I flatten the image, save and print.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuSlwDMlNPKU8ZbSA0skb_17XVb8bX2YPvnXRaUd6uOzKnANPCn98Z01cV7FnK0C6_RLOy0yvhtUmI2O-HB1UiJvE1eckR0dF0MgFrEskPXhHg8clEu74dc4-zMly51pXEECwN/s1600/Green+Curve.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuSlwDMlNPKU8ZbSA0skb_17XVb8bX2YPvnXRaUd6uOzKnANPCn98Z01cV7FnK0C6_RLOy0yvhtUmI2O-HB1UiJvE1eckR0dF0MgFrEskPXhHg8clEu74dc4-zMly51pXEECwN/s320/Green+Curve.png" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Curve for green transparency</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicThCd53ivsV55FMG8W3OHqu1o9RAu7-7Bz6olKE1rUkQgp5TQA_N4Vo5p-ze2sVt9jkTabnnVDiA5iyO94CYKd2yFw3m5Zvkv8vY4de9DrKh4xiWSk59ghqhWRgJE0Ua0FzBa/s1600/newgreenstepwedge.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="58" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicThCd53ivsV55FMG8W3OHqu1o9RAu7-7Bz6olKE1rUkQgp5TQA_N4Vo5p-ze2sVt9jkTabnnVDiA5iyO94CYKd2yFw3m5Zvkv8vY4de9DrKh4xiWSk59ghqhWRgJE0Ua0FzBa/s320/newgreenstepwedge.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step wedge print for green transparency and curve</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Za1rnPN5sTo9qFniVyIrooaYOn9q5qHtQNFPTiUHm2ZJgdQMhHbYhUZIy_CTSQVveSjEtOipBpKTp7nPc173KiYfwnv3pd9Ckwm3O1qZY0YOHpt8f2Q9uZSKp6q3Th_mDFnB/s1600/deerchairdoor.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Za1rnPN5sTo9qFniVyIrooaYOn9q5qHtQNFPTiUHm2ZJgdQMhHbYhUZIy_CTSQVveSjEtOipBpKTp7nPc173KiYfwnv3pd9Ckwm3O1qZY0YOHpt8f2Q9uZSKp6q3Th_mDFnB/s320/deerchairdoor.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original image</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzpfyAwWCGMlzui6GCp5jfPuSxmAkiCubGTXm5yVdGrx9spQvtXXbKBtr7N2BMX2pBpbtQnB6X61zr5IDhZ2odH5ynwQcOjbT-6waGi-cWr6QyycKnsE1VPvOhgB7E8pqoK0hd/s1600/deerchairdoor_49_2_green.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzpfyAwWCGMlzui6GCp5jfPuSxmAkiCubGTXm5yVdGrx9spQvtXXbKBtr7N2BMX2pBpbtQnB6X61zr5IDhZ2odH5ynwQcOjbT-6waGi-cWr6QyycKnsE1VPvOhgB7E8pqoK0hd/s320/deerchairdoor_49_2_green.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After curve and green color layer</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN7hHTe6ApMwyT0Fukvkz6l8uQIcPd7X1XS6vta63wMnz4AutshkNStJQHcqFKgr2Jbj2E6P8Tn1SAgU1HxAAGsnXWCfEAKn1qjFpgmc9UYNLR5Tz_fX09kRwHYrhuZCz7D9Tw/s1600/deerchairdoor_49_2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN7hHTe6ApMwyT0Fukvkz6l8uQIcPd7X1XS6vta63wMnz4AutshkNStJQHcqFKgr2Jbj2E6P8Tn1SAgU1HxAAGsnXWCfEAKn1qjFpgmc9UYNLR5Tz_fX09kRwHYrhuZCz7D9Tw/s320/deerchairdoor_49_2.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Would We Be Missed, 2</i><br />
Final print, Arches Platine, 12x17.5 inches</td></tr>
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<b style="font-family: arial; font-size: 18px;">The sensitized emulsion (sensitizer) </b></div>
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<b>Potassium dichromate solution</b></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The sensitizer used for the gum bichromate (also called dichromate) layer is a mixture of saturated potassium dichromate solution and gum arabic. This is also what one uses when making a gum bichromate print, but the ratio of dichromate to gum is different, and there is typically no pigment added for gumoil. Many gum bichromate printers consider a 13% solution of potassium dichromate to be saturated, but I use a pre-mixed solution from Bostick and Sullivan that is a 10% mixture. It's what they sell specifically for gum printing and works quite well for me. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Potassium dichromate is nasty stuff.</b> It is considered carcinogenic and mutagenic, among other things. Use caution with this chemical. Keep it off your skin, out of your eyes and mouth, and do not breath it in either in powder form or in mist form if you are spritzing your prints to clear excess hardened gum. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">If you are mixing the dichromate yourself from a powder, to make a 13% solution, add 13 grams of potassium dichromate powder to every 100ml distilled water. A 10% solution would be 10g in 100ml distilled water, and so on. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Ratio makes a difference in the sensitizer</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The ratio of dichromate to gum that I was taught to use is what Koenig used--1 part potassium dichromate to 3 parts gum arabic. This is what I used for the first several months that I worked with the process. I had mixed results that were far from predictable, but a lot of that unpredictability might have come from my own inconsistencies with all of the variables that exist in this process. I walked away from gumoil for several months, but when I came back to it, I accidentally started using a mixture of 1:2. Right from the start, things just fell into place. There was consistency, predictability, and I was happy. I now typically use a 1:2.5 solution, but the 1:2 is still a nice option. Both of these and the 1:3 plus 30% distilled water are what work best for me with the Arches Platine, and they are what I use most often, but I've found that thicker, more velvety papers yield better prints with the traditional 1:3 solution. The 1:3 solution tends to flake off in larger bits when I use it on Arches Platine, but the velvety papers hold onto it better. I have not tried the 1:3 plus 30% distilled water on any of the velvety or textured papers yet and don’t know how well they would work together.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Contrast in gum solutions</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">You can adjust the contrast of your gum solution a bit by adjusting the ratio. 1:2 is the lowest in contrast that I use, and 1:3 is the highest. Less dichromate equals more contrast. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>The gum layer</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The first layer of the gumoil process is made using one of the gum bichromate solutions described above. A positive transparency (NOT a negative) is used during exposure utilizing either sunlight or a UV exposure unit. During exposure, the gum bichromate hardens to greater and lesser degrees, depending on the density of the areas within the positive transparency. The unhardened gum is washed away in the first rinse following exposure.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">When coating my paper, I want a smooth finish without any obvious brush strokes or gaps that allow plain paper to show through. The amount of thickness also needs to be uniform. If the coating is too thick, it will tend to flake off in the rinse leaving a blotchy, textural look in the final print. Applying it too thinly can result in a coating that is not uniform, leaving paper exposed where I don't want it to be. Though, if done well, a nice effect can be achieved with a creative brush application of the gum bichromate.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I use Richeson synthetic flat wash brushes for almost all of my alternative process coating. They hold liquid nicely, clean up better than a lot of cheaper brushes, leave a fine, smooth coating, hold up well over time, and don't leave debris on my coated paper. The sponge type of brush that Koenig uses in the video that most gumoil printers have seen online can leave debris in the coating. These brushes also tend to create bubbles, especially when coating several sheets. The bubbles can then translate to dark spots in the final print. If you’re going to use this type of brush, get a good one. They are considerably less expensive than the Richeson brushes up front, but you will be throwing them out far more frequently, so they might be more expensive in the long run. I use the widest brush I can for each sheet I’m coating. For prints that are 11x17 and larger, I use a 3 inch brush. This helps keep the coating smooth and even.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I mix enough solution ahead of time to cover all of my prints with a little left over. As much as I hate wasting solution, having extra is always better than trying to spread a thin layer over a sheet of paper just to find it's not enough--wasting paper is even worse. Before coating, I lay my transparency on top of my paper and make little marks in the corners that are about 3/4" larger than the actual printed area of the transparency. The reason for this large border is that the edges of the gum layer tend to develop an uneven texture from the brush. It's best to have this well outside the print area to avoid flaking off in thicker spots. To cover 3, 11"x17" print areas on Arches Platine (not the paper size, but the size of my transparency plus a little extra border), I mix 10ml potassium dichromate to 25ml gum arabic (1:2.5) making 35ml of solution. Using my watercolor brush, I get full coverage for those three sheets with just a little left over. If you're using a foam brush, you will have to mix more because the brush soaks up a lot of the solution. Some papers that have a little more surface texture, like the Rives BFK that I also frequently use, also need more sensitizer to cover well.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Before I apply my sensitizer, I dampen my brush in distilled water then gently press out the excess with a paper towel. When loading the brush with sensitizer, I make sure it is full but not dripping when I go to the paper. I apply the sensitizer at a corner first, brushing along a border, heading toward another corner. Then another corner and border, and filling in the center as I go. This helps keep the borders neat, especially on larger prints. After I get all the solution I will need on the paper, I start to smooth it out, working quickly. I work one direction at a time: all strokes left to right, then top to bottom, then right to left, then bottom to top. Smooth, steady, even strokes. I keep going until I feel the gum starting to tug at the brush. If I go too long, the brush starts to skip across the gum, and this leaves marks in the coating that can show in the final print. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">If I find little bits of pet hair, brush fibers or other debris in the solution on my paper, I remove it before the gum gets too dry and brush to smooth out any marks I’ve made. If my coating is too tacky to remove the debris, I leave it until after the coating is dry and carefully try to remove it before exposure. (wear gloves! even dry, this stuff still has active dichromate in it!!) If I can't get it out, then I go ahead and expose anyway, but I know that it might leave an open area in the paper and that area will take paint. I try to put these little bits of debris into the darker areas of the print so they won't show. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The thinner solutions (1:2 to 1:3 plus 30% d. water) coat more easily and evenly than the 1:3 (no additional water). In fact, the 1:3 plus 30% distilled water flows so beautifully over the Arches Platine that even in winter when the humidity in my workspace gets down to 25% and the paper is equally dry, I have no problem getting a smooth coating. The thicker solution, 1:3 and even sometimes 1:2.5, can be hard to brush on when the humidity is so low. I find myself adding more and more solution to keep it wet as I try to spread it around on the paper. The often gives me an uneven coating that is blotchy and heavily speckled from the little bubbles that formed in the thicker gum areas that wouldn’t smooth out. Adding a little water (10-15%) to my 1:2.5 solution works well in the dry season.</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>A word about grain</b></span><br />
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Alas, attempting to get a good digital representation of the grain in my prints has proved elusive. The digitization of the grain has made it much more pronounced, when in reality it is softer and much more refined. There simply is, however, grain in this process, and it shows much more in the larger, soft tonal transitions (see<i> Would We Be Missed, 2 </i>image). You will often see it in the sky in landscapes. Using images with a lot of overall crisp detail shows less grain in a gumoil print (see <i>Tree House</i> image). Also, printing an image with higher contrast reduces visible grain (see <i>The Trees Have Eyes </i>image).<br />
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Something to consider when coating your paper is how thickly you apply it. Thicker coatings can leave a little more pronounced grain, and thinner ones can leave a softer grain. Applying your coating too thinly, especially on large prints or in very dry conditions, can be difficult because your coating can start to dry too quickly, leaving brush marks. You will get a feel for what works best for you in your situation. Practice, practice, practice.<br />
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You can reduce the appearance of the grain in any print by doing a second pass of paint that is slightly lighter in tone than your first pass of paint. This requires a bleach etch though, and that can be a little tricky to get right at first. With some practice, it becomes fairly routine.</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Let the coated paper dry completely</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After the paper is coated and the surface has started to go from shiny to matte, it is hung to dry in a dark, dry space. The paper will have a crispness to it when it's dry, and it won't have cool spots on the back where the moisture is still evaporating. In my basement, it usually takes about 3 hours to dry on its own in the summer and only an hour or so in the winter. If there are any damp areas in the paper, the sensitizer won't expose evenly, so drier is better. Some folks keep their gum coated paper in a dry, dark place for a few days, but I don't like leaving mine unused for more than 10 to 12 hours at most. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Gum bichromate isn't highly light-sensitive until it is dry, and even then, a lot of gum printers prefer to work in subdued ambient light. I like to work with yellow lighting. I use Philips Hue lightbulbs. I can change the color and brightness of my lights using an app--very convenient! Once your exposed paper is in the water, you can turn the white lights on.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">For exposure, I use a UV unit that was designed for screen printing. It is an aluminum box with the lights below, and a sheet of glass above. The coated paper that I'm going to expose is placed face down on the glass with a negative or positive transparency in between. I use either a contact print frame or compression (sheet of plexiglass with weights on top) to keep the transparency in firm contact with the paper. The 36"x36" exposure area on this unit is great for large prints. UV units give you a boost in predictability that working with the sun does not afford, but yes, they can be expensive. There are plenty of DIY instructions online for building one, so you might want to look into making one for yourself.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Most of my prints these days are single pass prints. Meaning, they get one exposure, one coat of paint, and one pass through the clearing process, with no additional work. My exposures with a 1:2.5 solution, my type of transparency, and Arches Platine typically take around 6 minutes for a single pass print. Rives BFK off-white takes just a little more time than the Platine, and if I use a 1:3 solution, it will take a even longer. Using a 1:2.5 solution with Stonehenge Rising takes 10-15% more time than the Platine. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Unfortunately, there is no way for me to describe exactly what your gum layer should look like immediately after exposing because a very wide range of exposures will give you fully realized negative images before washing and clearing the print. What it looks like after clearing is what's most important. The areas that will be your darkest blacks should be showing cleared paper or very nearly so. You should be able to see your darkest shadow <b>details</b> in faint relief when looking at the paper from different angles if not straight on. You should be able to see some definition in the denser areas of the wet print as well (what will be your highlights). </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Clearing the gum bichromate negative print</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After exposure, the print will be a negative and will have gold to medium-dark brown areas in it. (Don't fall in love with it. It will change A LOT after rinsing.) First, it gets a soak in lukewarm water for 5 minutes. After soaking, I give it a gentle, lukewarm water rinse with my hose sprayer at my sink. The water pressure is so low that the water is just sort of falling out of the sprayer. Sometimes I even use a small plastic cup that I keep at my sink to flow water gently over the print. The idea here is to clear away unhardened gum without destroying the gum I want to keep on the paper.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Wet gum bichromate has a sort of mushy thickness to it that rinses off in tiny bits, so as you can imagine, the little details of your image can get lost in this mushiness and in the clearing stage. It also stands to reason that bigger prints yield greater detail. If detail is important to you, print as large as you can to get the greatest detail. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Koenig used a spritz bottle to get bits of gum bichromate out of those small detail areas to open up the paper and allow oil paint to get in. I've never had success with a spritz bottle because it always removed too much gum and did so unevenly. I turn the water pressure way down when using my hose end sprayer so it doesn't create a mist the way a spritz bottle does, and I'm not worried about breathing in dichromate particles. Consider your situation carefully, and act accordingly. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The print is then washed in a cool running water bath for 30 minutes, and very gently sprayed once again with lukewarm or cool water before being hung to dry until the next day. At this point, the print is but a faint version of its former self. It will be a very pale, sort of olive-gray-green color. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">DO NOT LEAVE YOUR PAPER IN ANY OF THE CLEARING OR WASHING TRAYS FOR TOO LONG. You can end up losing some of your image details this way. You might still get a decent single pass print from it, but you may not get the opportunity to do any etching if too much of your gum washed away while you were clearing it with water.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Things to consider when adjusting the gum layer for a second pass (layer) of paint</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The above paragraph is describing what I do for single pass prints--one layer of paint and no more. I don't typically attempt a multiple pass print until after I've gotten a good single pass print working. After I've achieved a good single pass print, I start working from it to get a multiple pass version. When making multiple pass prints, I will be etching the gum with household bleach to open up areas of paper to let in more paint. Household bleach is also different here in the States from what is sold in Europe and Australia. You will have to experiment to find what works best for you.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Often, when I’m going to do a second pass of paint, I can keep the exposure the same as it was for my single pass version before doing an etch. If I am using a colored paint, as opposed to grey or black paint, then I can expect to see more grain that comes from the contrast between the color and the black paint of my first pass. If I’m using grey or black paint, these paints help to fill in the grainy areas seen in the first pass. If I want to (try to) avoid the grain in a colored print, I can increase the contrast in my positive transparency by a small amount and boost my exposure time by 10-15% to allow for a deeper etch. The deeper etch removes some of the grain from the first pass and lets more color in with the second pass. These very colorful prints can be quite dramatic but can be very difficult to control simply because the etching is so difficult to control. For prints getting more than two additional passes of paint, I will slightly increase the contrast in my positive and add 10-25% more exposure time to allow for multiple bleach etchings. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Every time I etch, it's a bit unpredictable and becomes increasingly more so with each subsequent etch. I've rarely gotten a truly successful fourth pass of paint, and even the third passes I've done were a dicey business at best. Using a 1:3 sensitizer ratio with an even longer exposure for multiple passes creates a softer gum layer, and you might find you like it more for bleach etching and multiple passes. I find it to be more unstable and less predictable though. A change from 1:2.5 solution to a 1:3, for 2 or more passes, could easily go to 25% more exposure time, if not more.</span><span style="color: black; font-kerning: none;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Paint block-up with long exposures</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">One very strange phenomenon I came across early on was having large areas of my print "block-up" with oil paint despite the fact that I could clearly see gum in areas that weren't releasing the paint, and I knew that I had given the exposure a lot of time (8-10 minutes). The paint just wouldn't wipe off large areas where it had done so in many other prints. A longer exposure only made it worse. In an angry fit, I even let one print expose for something like 15 or 16 in an attempt to create a paint proof layer of gum, and it raged right back at me by completely blocking up with paint--not one bit of it wiped clear. I found at least one other tortured soul in an online discussion board seeking help when he or she had the same problem. I have no idea why exposing the gum for too long would cause it to stop acting as a resist to the oil paint, but it seems you can do just that if your exposures are way too long. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>The paper</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Arches Platine is a beautiful paper, and it's my go-to paper for many alternative processes. It has a nice, smooth surface and holds up very well in water, even after multiple passes through trays of chemicals, coats of paint and dichromate, rinsing, repeat, repeat, etc. It also tends to shrink less than most papers, making any needed registration easier. I also use Stonehenge Rising paper, but the 320gsm (120lb?) version is getting harder to come by in anything smaller than 30"x44". The Stonehenge has a harder size in it, and because of this, the gum layer needs about 10-15% more exposure time than the Platine for the same end result. Rives BFK (280gsm) is a traditional printmaking paper, and it feels similar to the Platine before wetting, but the fibers are raised considerably after wetting. After the gum layer is processed, the paper will have a little more texture to it than the Platine. This means that the paper will hold more paint though, so the blacks are richer, and colors more intense but usually at the expense of finer detail unless the time is taken to create a custom curve and workflow specific to this paper. I use the off-white, and like it a lot as an alternative to the bright white of the Platine. The buff color BFK seems like a completely different paper and didn't work well at all when I tried it. I've also used Twinrocker watercolor paper with some success. Lastly, if you use the back side of the Platine, it works a lot like the smooth side of the BFK off-white and holds onto the paint more. It does have a different texture than the front, and I waver back and forth about it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>In brief:</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Favorite paper is Arches Platine. Smoother finish, finer detail, but slightly lighter black, paler colors, backside yields deeper black but has different texture and might yield less detail. Less shrinkage than with most other papers I’ve tried.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">2nd favorite is Rives BFK 280gsm off-white. Deeper black, colors more intense, but small details can get lost, and paper shows more texture. Also needs slightly longer exposure.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">3rd favorite is Stonehenge Rising 320gsm. Finer detail, but blacks and colors are a little lighter. Only available in very large size. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>The paint (not all paints are created equal)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">A good place to start with gumoil is a rich, deep, black. Lamp black fits this description better than any others that I know of. There are artist grade paints and student or economy paints. Always buy the former. Student and economy paints are cheap for good reason: they don't hold up well and colors often are not permanent. As a painter, I tend to use good quality, artist oil paints. Though I'm not really a fan of Winsor and Newton paints, I started doing gumoil with a Winsor and Newton lamp black because it was available in a large tube, and it's a carbon based black that won't fade, regardless of who makes it. Yellowing was never something I thought I would have to consider with a black, or even most colored, paints. Eventually, I moved on to a lamp black by Williamsburg which is a better quality. I was also using my favorite Gamblin paints for the colors and loved them a lot. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Then, this happened…</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I was showing some of my gumoil prints to a family member, and when I pulled out some of my older prints I saw that many were yellowing badly wherever the paint was in contact with the paper. Even the ones I had just made with my good, artist quality paints were starting to show some very pale yellowing. I had never noticed it. The older the print, the uglier the yellowing. It was bleeding through the backs of some of the prints in the shapes of the images on the front, and the yellowing was also bleeding out from the paint areas into the front of the paper. This was true of the prints made with the Winsor and Newton artist paints and both the Williamsburg and Gamblin artist paints. I was gutted. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8y1_dsOQ8eyyQ2w6M3ZdUb0QNtcb6PSHF2UhMj1kl52Q_VbzunHz6Prl2w7wOP5vw9B0W1MNGcXRjPrV-PaNkK0cN4GKIA9NGN8KSxBOq_nwVcWHdsLRSeliBsPcVKdzUUJrR/s1600/IMG_0909.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8y1_dsOQ8eyyQ2w6M3ZdUb0QNtcb6PSHF2UhMj1kl52Q_VbzunHz6Prl2w7wOP5vw9B0W1MNGcXRjPrV-PaNkK0cN4GKIA9NGN8KSxBOq_nwVcWHdsLRSeliBsPcVKdzUUJrR/s400/IMG_0909.jpg" width="308" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back of print made with linseed oil paint</td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>The good news</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After some research and some paint testing, I am convinced it was the linseed oil in the paints I was using. All linseed oil paints will yellow to some degree. This doesn’t mean they are bad paints, it just means they aren’t great for gumoil because wherever they get into the paper, they turn the paper yellow. There are paints made with linseed oil alternatives though. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">M. Graham uses walnut oil. Although some of my older prints made with this paint show yellow through the back of the paper, it isn’t nearly as bad as the linseed oil paints that I was initially using. Sennelier Extra-Fine Artist Oil Paints are made with safflower oil, but I haven’t been able to find a lamp black (deepest black) in their line. Maimeri’s Puro line of paints are expensive, but they are very good paints made with safflower and poppy seed oils. But, they also don’t have a lamp black. The Sennelier and Maimeri are also a bit harder to work with. They tend to get stiff on the paper’s surface and can be hard to wipe off. I work with different mixtures to get a combination that works well with my paper. The combination I like best at the moment is 1 part Maimeri Puro ivory black to 3 parts M. Graham lamp black.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Colors</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Lamp black is a great black, but not all paint makers sell it. Ivory, carbon, and mars blacks are also nice blacks, a little lighter in tonality, perhaps, but good. As far as colors are concerned, check manufacturers' websites for the lightfastness of each color; it can vary considerably with less stable pigments. Reds can be tough in terms of stability. Stay away from alizarin crimson altogether. It just doesn't have a great lightfastness coming from any brand. There are also differences in the transparency of paints. Opaques tend to have less oil (lean paints) and transparents tend to have more oil (fat paints). Transparent paints are frequently very high chroma (intense color), and the combination of a lot of oil and a lot of color can mean staining, even in areas where you don't want it to. Manufacturers usually state on their websites whether their individual colors are opaque, transparent, or somewhere in between.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Oil-based etching inks and water mixable-oil etching inks and paints</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The oil-based etching inks that I tried were too hard to rub on and impossible to wipe off. After that experience, I didn't even try the water-mixable etching inks I have, but I did try a water-mixable oil paint. It was interesting and might be worth looking into further at some point. Initially, the dry print wiped cleaner than the ones made with oil-based paints tend to, but as expected, the paint started to wash away once the print was put into a tray of water, and further attempts at wiping highlight areas after the paint and paper were wet just made them muddy and messy. These water mixable paints and etching inks are also made with linseed oil that has been altered to make them mixable and washable with water. So, we’re back to linseed oil with these anyway.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After the gum bichromate negative print has dried completely, and preferably overnight, it's time to apply the paint. If I’m starting with a mixed color, I make sure I have mixed enough ahead of time to cover the entire area I intend to use it in. I might not be able to mix the exact color halfway through the application, leaving me with an uneven color application. If I’m using an unmixed black (or other paint that doesn't need mixing), I squeeze out as much as I think I’ll need, and if any excess oil comes out of the tube along with the pigment, I soak it up with a paper towel and am careful not to mix it in. I want as little oil on the paper as possible. If there is still some oil around the paint that I can't soak up, I don't worry about it but I do mix it in before I start applying it to my paper.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Good paint is expensive. I scoop up any excess and store it in an airtight container for later use.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Tape down the gum print</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I like to tape off the edges of my print before adding paint to keep it neat and clean. I use a very low tack tape that I get through Amazon that is made by Protapes or Pro Scenic: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/ProTapes-Pro-Acrylic-Release-Painters/dp/B00DVCZUDG/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1453626559&sr=1-4&keywords=low+tack+masking+tape+pro+scenic">Pro Scenic Tape</a>. It is sold as a painter's tape and has gotten mixed reviews for use in that way because it doesn't stick as well as some DIYers would like, but it's perfect for this purpose. It is far less likely to damage my paper than any other tape I've tried, and I feel it would make a great all around artist's masking tape, if not for the color. 3M also makes a white low tack paper "labeling" tape that I believe uses the same type of adhesive as their Post-it notes pads, but it’s more expensive than the purple tape I use. I tape right up to the edges of my image border and right out onto my table. This also keeps the paper steady for me as I wipe paint on and off of my print. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Brush, or cloth?</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I started out using stippling or stencil brushes for paint application. It's a good way to get a lot of paint onto the paper rather quickly. One technique is to sort of stab at the paper with the loaded brush to get the paint into the paper fibers. I've found that with a good gum layer, I don't need to do this. Now, I typically just use a very soft cloth, like an old t-shirt without printing on it, that I cut into small pieces. I don't have to worry about cleaning brushes with solvents, which is messy and tends to waste a lot of rags and/or paper towels. I make a little ball out of the t-shirt scrap, dip it into my paint, and gently rub it onto the surface of the paper, using very little pressure. I don’t want to mar the surface in any way because this can show in the final print.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Wiping paint off again </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I leave the paint on the paper for about 5 (more or less) minutes before wiping it off with Viva paper towels. They are old school paper towels that resemble workshop towels. They are more felt-like and don’t have any “quilting”, texturing, or printing on them that might somehow leave traces of themselves on the surface of my print. I wipe until I can clearly see the details in my image (it will be a positive at this point) and there is just a hint of paint still showing up on my paper towel after wiping. There will be a grey (or whatever color I choose to start with) haze over everything. I try not to over wipe the paint because this can pull out too much of the deep black from the shadows. If I find that my shadow areas are getting too light, then I am either wiping too aggressively, or I need to rework my positive or shorten my gum exposure time.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmTFlX-e4Po38ecPRanHBhUMdtvy701HmuJ_cnnb8ea-w1KiwVjgBW0nXSlsvjMvZzQ1fLrc7KZKFlp6rsq8MunaeMZEQ5-oNS7TEaAL5C1vHdl0sVayPePRmA-jgjuXwC6hgS/s1600/tape2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmTFlX-e4Po38ecPRanHBhUMdtvy701HmuJ_cnnb8ea-w1KiwVjgBW0nXSlsvjMvZzQ1fLrc7KZKFlp6rsq8MunaeMZEQ5-oNS7TEaAL5C1vHdl0sVayPePRmA-jgjuXwC6hgS/s400/tape2.jpg" width="300" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Print framed with low tack tape and wiped clean</td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Processing the print after applying paint</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Start with a brief soak </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After wiping my print at my work table, I put it into a tray of very warm to hot tap water to soak for 5 minutes. I wet the surface first, then flip it over, making sure there are no bubbles trapped underneath the paper. These bubbles will make certain areas harder to clear because the water hasn’t gotten past them and to the paper. After soaking, I lay my print face up in my sink and spray it with very warm to hot tap water with the pressure coming out of the sprayer being fairly high to really loosen the paint on the surface of the gum. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">What happens next, depends on whether I feel the print will be finished with just one pass of paint or if I feel I want to etch it and try more passes of paint. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Single pass print</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After soaking and spraying my print, I decide if I want to wipe it before I put it into a sodium metabisulfite bath. It really depends on whether or not the print looks like it needs it. Sometimes I don’t have to wipe my prints again after I have wiped them at my work table. If my curve has worked properly with my gum solution, paper, etc, then all I have to do after soaking and spraying is leave the print in a bath of .75% sodium metabisulfite (7.5 grams/liter of water) for 4 or 5 minutes. Sodium (and potassium) metabisulfite removes a lot of the dichromate “stain” in the highlights, making them clearer and brighter. It also eats away at the gum, freeing some of the paint haze and residue. When I remove the print from the sodium metabisulfite bath, I give it another spray (not as much pressure coming out of the sprayer this time) with very warm to hot water. This removes unwanted paint haze from the print. Next, I either put it back into the sodium metabisulfite for another minute for further clearing, or simply put it into a rinse tray with cool, running water for 45 minutes. While it is in the final rinse tray, I take a cotton ball that I have pulled apart a bit to loosen it out of its ball shape, and with the print submerged in the water, I gently drag the wet cotton ball “entrails” across areas of the print that aren’t as clear as I might like. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">If the print looks a little too dark in the shadow areas after the first hot water soak, I will give it a very gentle wipe with a soft sponge while it is sitting face up in my sink. I let hot water flow over the print as I wipe it. Then it goes into the .75% sodium metabisulfite bath for clearing for 4 minutes. After my print is finished clearing in the sodium metabisulfite, I remove it, place it face up on the surface of my sink, and spray it with very warm to hot water to clear away paint haze. Then it goes into a cool running water rinse for 45 minutes and is gently wiped with a wet cotton ball in any areas that might need to have some haze removed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">If I am losing too much of my image after wiping, then I try a shorter exposure time. If this yields shadows that are blocked up and lacking detail, then I know I have to rework my positive. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Here are some examples of single pass prints, all on Arches Platine, some using a 1:2.5 gum solution and some using a 1:3 plus 30% water gum solution, wiped clean at the sink, and cleared in sodium metabisulfite. </span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: 14px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNNi5HRlV0HfqHLfMG5Nboeh3ABBZo8NOHVESAP_AScmcpGNgY21GTuqg2XXBgDpilCB_UJsmFk87lgFX8s4_T1j1q4fvbSpHRnF5Yb5EsX4i_YSTbGFNujYDeGa_rpfmBYmfS/s1600/treehouse_darker_38_2_3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNNi5HRlV0HfqHLfMG5Nboeh3ABBZo8NOHVESAP_AScmcpGNgY21GTuqg2XXBgDpilCB_UJsmFk87lgFX8s4_T1j1q4fvbSpHRnF5Yb5EsX4i_YSTbGFNujYDeGa_rpfmBYmfS/s320/treehouse_darker_38_2_3.jpg" width="310" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Tree House</i><br />
12x12 inches, Arches Platine,<br />
1:2.5 gum solution<br />
("grey" curve and transparency)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: 14px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUVkcRY4ynV0XdN7kKGLLnqJM0q22R7obbirP-wutXiIR5jaaYMlVn27L383YQ1MopNumFKg4H_XQTU5oodTeNIc0sLijZZSg91mf0h3sz285UZi113dNO-HMZenaEZSrWKkSc/s1600/bellevuegardensteps_darker_49_2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUVkcRY4ynV0XdN7kKGLLnqJM0q22R7obbirP-wutXiIR5jaaYMlVn27L383YQ1MopNumFKg4H_XQTU5oodTeNIc0sLijZZSg91mf0h3sz285UZi113dNO-HMZenaEZSrWKkSc/s320/bellevuegardensteps_darker_49_2.jpg" width="318" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Bellevue Garden Steps</i><br />
12x12 inches, Arches Platine,<br />
1:3 plus 30% dist. water gum solution<br />
("green" curve and transparency)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: 14px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVPJkVsjNR2IxCcagy8BbqaDWwC78C5O6acFZoPDPv-sUzyQESOnNRJYy2jHliZn2AjZtr8id-vdigTwTCEFa2a5QG1NYJTibhf3k5Vsvy0ksqucTPOXZjuhVVy9IJUjtk4hzE/s1600/trees.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVPJkVsjNR2IxCcagy8BbqaDWwC78C5O6acFZoPDPv-sUzyQESOnNRJYy2jHliZn2AjZtr8id-vdigTwTCEFa2a5QG1NYJTibhf3k5Vsvy0ksqucTPOXZjuhVVy9IJUjtk4hzE/s320/trees.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Heaps Peak Trees</i><br />
7.5x7.5 inches, Arches Platine,<br />
1:2.5 gum solution<br />
("grey" curve and transparency)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: 14px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXZ7fNGEYWc6cJBN6HpjyenYWoR-myKCSr5jEeeWNXERaXQS7viwD4UV2ifZtbJu0Xn9s_lZ2x58EAElKim1rrxdmymZhCTmEtXgegWOazEAVvz45ZhosprDyDW0bQb3cWhAKI/s1600/treeshaveeyes.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXZ7fNGEYWc6cJBN6HpjyenYWoR-myKCSr5jEeeWNXERaXQS7viwD4UV2ifZtbJu0Xn9s_lZ2x58EAElKim1rrxdmymZhCTmEtXgegWOazEAVvz45ZhosprDyDW0bQb3cWhAKI/s320/treeshaveeyes.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The Trees Have Eyes</i><br />
12x12 inches, Arches Platine,<br />
1:2.5 gum solution (second, "fussy"<br />
method, grey transparency)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: 14px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDrCYXvyLH5i5D0grEv591gaYm8WVaZ3sCCFtlfP4TlRa6n0isdeFzT8nCoFoTjANKy5lJQleoKGcWhzUEGfYdC4wQmEmwrTIAIOHwwNQeR8Dvz4_IHiwl-SVsmWvn0SZkSSlh/s1600/IMG_0825.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDrCYXvyLH5i5D0grEv591gaYm8WVaZ3sCCFtlfP4TlRa6n0isdeFzT8nCoFoTjANKy5lJQleoKGcWhzUEGfYdC4wQmEmwrTIAIOHwwNQeR8Dvz4_IHiwl-SVsmWvn0SZkSSlh/s320/IMG_0825.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Heaps Peak Burned Trees</i><br />
9x9 inches, Arches Platine, 1:2.5 gum solution<br />
(second "fussy" method, grey transparency)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: 14px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMb9JVJMSd1zK4koU3_HrDF2IwQOmwyThU73v-ivWfsX2i1Ol3_gKkdP2ynetlkkuYZluPTNLG3GuC6c592rOz_ha9J6oKvSMO00CAJ4sm_vxfxhyOoLo_3tSvwutumTAT8o2x/s1600/urn2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMb9JVJMSd1zK4koU3_HrDF2IwQOmwyThU73v-ivWfsX2i1Ol3_gKkdP2ynetlkkuYZluPTNLG3GuC6c592rOz_ha9J6oKvSMO00CAJ4sm_vxfxhyOoLo_3tSvwutumTAT8o2x/s320/urn2.jpg" width="315" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Garden Urn</i><br />
7.5x7.5 inches, Arches Platine, <br />
1:2.5 gum solution<br />
("grey" curve and transparency)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: 14px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9yS_xWBP8zahISyXct7yFLvy0IJn0o9D9P4ZN9_lyyhIlbnBJO8C0377iK2pBzT6C_6nK4KVOrpO5cO2l7OR9ITHnPDpHdnf1Fi2StDfo-mCMWqYk1eXn4CulBWKEL1Otk0jy/s1600/IMG_0889.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9yS_xWBP8zahISyXct7yFLvy0IJn0o9D9P4ZN9_lyyhIlbnBJO8C0377iK2pBzT6C_6nK4KVOrpO5cO2l7OR9ITHnPDpHdnf1Fi2StDfo-mCMWqYk1eXn4CulBWKEL1Otk0jy/s320/IMG_0889.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>For Sale, Shelburne Falls, MA</i><br />
11.5x17 inches, Arches Platine,<br />
1:2.5 gum solution (second "fussy"<br />
method, grey transparency)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: 14px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwRfXhDoG0bKqaIv36TBHzDQ3wecDP5hciBFL7g3jnQuH2CQevNJLvPNOEDlmKlbrCq1HW0O-OewLDjl02DinZF1K49iMvPD5feytWnT32gXf1bSu7aKznhfmqiVAU1g4aqQ6z/s1600/IMG_0901.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwRfXhDoG0bKqaIv36TBHzDQ3wecDP5hciBFL7g3jnQuH2CQevNJLvPNOEDlmKlbrCq1HW0O-OewLDjl02DinZF1K49iMvPD5feytWnT32gXf1bSu7aKznhfmqiVAU1g4aqQ6z/s320/IMG_0901.jpg" width="216" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Falling Ice, Peterborough, NH</i><br />
11.5x17.5 inches, Arches Platine,<br />
1:2.5 gum solution (second "fussy"<br />
method, grey transparency)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: 14px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixJtNPzxnbhse1s_PA7VuS37i0DBkDXiVQuNaaU111tRrzBfzq2aK6xEDX0E4EJjc52BF_aNnwJ16Wr9DsUrRUnDimqKYee0Yi1JlTffl0Yq9FT_hsx5astNJc1nY9w-T3mc97/s1600/IMG_0819.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixJtNPzxnbhse1s_PA7VuS37i0DBkDXiVQuNaaU111tRrzBfzq2aK6xEDX0E4EJjc52BF_aNnwJ16Wr9DsUrRUnDimqKYee0Yi1JlTffl0Yq9FT_hsx5astNJc1nY9w-T3mc97/s320/IMG_0819.jpg" width="219" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Smokes, Beer, Dinner, Lambertville, NJ</i><br />
11.5x17.5 inches, Arches Platine,<br />
1:2.5 gum solution (second "fussy"<br />
method, grey transparency)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: 14px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkbd7zSzq2uqRsbOTlnrDHn4AQVzXIvOgZnOLWTlxfG80uC85cAm7W7SK7-nasNoJ1nm9INj75mYYx19QrliXf5fzbllyGRnZAguaO2pHViKAa6ZQagQ99nQ8euz1WT-nY3VUq/s1600/IMG_0835.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkbd7zSzq2uqRsbOTlnrDHn4AQVzXIvOgZnOLWTlxfG80uC85cAm7W7SK7-nasNoJ1nm9INj75mYYx19QrliXf5fzbllyGRnZAguaO2pHViKAa6ZQagQ99nQ8euz1WT-nY3VUq/s320/IMG_0835.jpg" width="242" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Would We Be Missed, 1</i><br />
12x16 inches, Arches Platine, <br />
1:2.5 gum solution (second fussy<br />
method,grey transparency)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b>Adding color to a single pass print</b></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After the print has dried, if I like, I can wipe on a thin layer or oil paint, but remove it quickly. After disturbing the gum layer by processing it with sodium metabisulfite and wiping it while it’s wet, it has gained some texture and lost a lot of the gum resist and no longer works the way it would if I were treating it like a multiple pass print. The paint wants to stick even where gum is still present, so I tend to wipe it off as I'm wiping it on. I don't put the print back into water again because too much of the paint comes off in some areas while sticking badly to others, creating an unattractive texture. Instead, to clear some highlight areas, I use a soft cloth and sort of buff it away.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I also like to add color with oil-based color pencils. No special techniques here, I just add color like a kid with crayons and a coloring book. I haven't tried watercolor with a single pass print yet but have used them effectively after the etching process. Oil pastels also work well but can be tricky because they are basically just very thick oil paints.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjev9V9tBKWkvVhOj0AnO7pvX9NifsdogxBs3ePxpQK9mMl-hvjVSsdMRLrKGl1gCMd0Ct8kaI7_35Q-TQKee60bcSDiwhXBy-Y4F7BBxndQfIoajWqfquhd4iRlS-dAJT40dyZ/s1600/IMG_0882.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjev9V9tBKWkvVhOj0AnO7pvX9NifsdogxBs3ePxpQK9mMl-hvjVSsdMRLrKGl1gCMd0Ct8kaI7_35Q-TQKee60bcSDiwhXBy-Y4F7BBxndQfIoajWqfquhd4iRlS-dAJT40dyZ/s320/IMG_0882.jpg" width="246" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Would We Be Missed, 1</i><br />
Hand colored with pencils, 12x16 inches,<br />
Arches Platine</td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Multiple pass print using a bleach etch</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">IMPORTANT NOTE: I do not wipe my print after soaking as I would for a single pass print. I feel it removes too much of the gum and paint before putting it into the etching bath. The etching process can either add or remove details. Sometimes it does both. It is a very fickle and unpredictable way of working.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After wiping the excess paint off the dry print at my work table, I remove my tape and place the print into a tray of warm water to soak for 3-5 minutes making sure there are no bubbles trapped underneath, then give it a gentle spray with my hose sprayer. After the soak in warm water, I place the print into an etching bath that is a 1:8 solution of household bleach and tap water--1 part bleach to 8 parts water. In a 16x20 inch tray, I usually use 500ml of bleach and 4 liters of water. The bleach acts very quickly, and I count seconds in my head the absolutely nontechnical way (a metronome would be better): one-mississippi, two-mississippi, etc, for 12 to 16 seconds, then put it into fresh, cool water. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I take my print out of the bleach before I'm finished counting to let it drain off a bit then try to get it into the fresh water as I'm counting that last second. When dealing with such short amounts of time, every second counts, so don't hold your print over the bleach tray after you have finished counting just to let it drain off. The bleach is still eating away at your gum layer while you're doing this. You also don't want to carry a lot of the bleach with your print into your tray of fresh water. If you have room for a second tray of fresh water, move your print from the first tray of fresh water and into the second after several seconds to further dilute any residual bleach. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Etching time is crucial but difficult to get right</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Although the standard time for the first etch is 12-16 seconds, the time you need really depends on everything you have done to this point--the tonal range of your positive, the sensitizer ratio, how thickly (or thinly) you've applied the sensitizer, your exposure time, how long you left your gum layer in the rinse, etc, etc, etc. If you etch for too long, a lot of your detail washes away. While it is normal for some of the paint to wash away after an etch because it is getting carried off with the loosened gum, if you etch the gum for too long, you won’t be able to get those details back. They will simply print as solid areas of paint. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">You can also use the etching process to purposely remove detail, creating a stark and contrasty image. Creative brushing in this case can also add to the final print. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Clear and hang to dry</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">A minute or so after placing my print in fresh water, I move it to a cool, running water wash for 30 minutes to clear the bleach from the print. When it's time to remove it, the gum is very fragile, so I don't disturb it with a spray from my hose sprayer, and I don't brush or touch it in any way. I will, however, let the cool water from an open hose at my sink run very gently and smoothly across the surface of the print while it's still in the tray, then hang it to dry. Using a cup or small pitcher to gently pour water over the surface works just as well.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Another trick for gently clearing away some stubborn bits after I have etched my print and it has come out of the final rinse is to hang it by a corner for a couple of minutes, rotating it once to keep the surface evenly wet, then place it back into the water. For some reason, letting air get to the surface tends to open it up, and more of the gum and paint film washes away after it is placed back into the water. If I overdo it, I can lose too much gum, and subsequently, more detail. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I hang the print to dry and look carefully at what is going on at this point. There is always a thin film or haze of paint left in my highlights while some of the darker mid tone areas have gotten lighter and grainier. These darker mid tones were the thinnest areas in the gum, and they have been etched to where the paper is now clear enough of the gum resist to allow paint to get into it for the next pass. I don't try to clear the highlights of the hazy paint film yet because it is only temporary, and the gum is too fragile anyway. Disturbing it too much at this point usually spells disaster for me. Those hazy, lighter areas are where I want some resist left on the paper. Leaving that haze on the print for too long, however, allows it to dry completely and getting it to come off later can be problematic. I don’t let a print in this state sit for more than a day or two.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Applying a second pass of paint</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After the first etch has opened up the darker end of the mid tone areas in the paper and the print has dried, it is ready for the second pass of paint. If I'm creating a black and white print, I'll simply mix a little titanium white (less chalky and slower drying than zinc) into the same black paint I used for my first pass to make a very dark grey. Using an ivory black, which is a soft black, after a darker lamp black also works well. I’ve never liked the look of an actual middle grey at this point. It appears muddy to me. This second pass of dark grey can also tone down the grainy look that is so prominent in gumoil prints. It fills in some of the gaps, creating a slightly smoother look. It can be applied to isolated areas or over the entire print. If my print is already looking fairly finished but I want a color for atmosphere, I will apply it to either the whole print or just isolated areas. Creating a print with a range of colors can be done at this point as well, but things can get smeary and muddy very quickly if care isn't taken to keep colors separated, especially when wiping the excess paint off. It takes practice. I use blending stumps, Q-tips, and bits of cloth to apply paint if I'm coloring finer detail.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After applying the second pass of paint, I usually leave it on the paper for 5 minutes (less for really intense colors), then wipe off the excess. If I've applied more than one color, I'm careful not to smear them into areas where I don't want them. I work quickly to avoid color staining, but neatly as well. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I place the print into a tray of warm water to soak for 3-5 minutes, face down, again, making sure that no bubbles are trapped underneath the paper. After soaking, I remove the print and give it a gentle spray with warm water. At this point I already know if I’m going to attempt any further etching and paint application. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">If the print isn’t getting any more paint, I place it into a tray of .75% sodium metabisulfite for 2 to 4 minutes for clearing. After it is finished soaking in this clearing bath, I place it face up in my sink and spray it gently with warm water to test how well the paint is adhering. I either wipe it gently with a soft sponge or simply spray it with my sink sprayer then do any needed touch-up wiping with a wet cotton ball while the print is in a cool running water rinse. I leave it in the rinse for 45 minutes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">If I think I can get away with a third pass of paint and processing, I will only gently spray the print with warm water after taking it out of the first soaking bath. I then follow the same steps I would if I were doing a second pass of paint: bleach etch—running water rinse—hang to dry—apply paint—leave it on for 5 minutes—wipe paint off—soak in warm water—spray—then either clear in sodium metabisulfite and place it in a running water rinse for 45 minutes, or start the etching process again.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVXVLxSscYnGL1iqqrfPc7-NsDhbUn-yW4FT_z6kF5rsa1P9f_gLPbJBk9uhRgHPqCKT6BRZAWmX2yAtJAUS-Exi0v6PKRndEzS2-CftI7dwJs9P86JoLSAKUj1x595J7vvxeN/s1600/bluejuniper.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVXVLxSscYnGL1iqqrfPc7-NsDhbUn-yW4FT_z6kF5rsa1P9f_gLPbJBk9uhRgHPqCKT6BRZAWmX2yAtJAUS-Exi0v6PKRndEzS2-CftI7dwJs9P86JoLSAKUj1x595J7vvxeN/s320/bluejuniper.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Juniper Branch</i><br />
1:2.5 gum solution, bleach etched, second pass<br />
prussian blue, 12x12 inches</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBIuCLCfQqpt2FmlkXa9MsOdJ95Rb-z9Z9-STOqTq19agQcIGWI82YQuSadra5mX3lhHAycWh1U8bVr7_CcvjFSGGQUgv6BKhKmAO-JbQ4QrF3nal1-ow7uDf8NHDiXdqOqDt3/s1600/IMG_0896.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBIuCLCfQqpt2FmlkXa9MsOdJ95Rb-z9Z9-STOqTq19agQcIGWI82YQuSadra5mX3lhHAycWh1U8bVr7_CcvjFSGGQUgv6BKhKmAO-JbQ4QrF3nal1-ow7uDf8NHDiXdqOqDt3/s320/IMG_0896.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Daydreamer's Ladder</i><br />
1:2.5 gum solution, bleach etched, oil paints in <br />
second pass applied selectively,<br />
12x12 inches</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOJ1QM0cu2AbjwWqdOToYDIaAzvIdn_XK9nOrWgcX98DF_ZX-2yTn4ebfPhdiBSOjuzQBtSPP0BPPX1b-z2sn7lHU4JOIGV5yvWtZenv_bM9DH88KeAtIJVg4aL_tdsMmYqVLG/s1600/IMG_0006.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOJ1QM0cu2AbjwWqdOToYDIaAzvIdn_XK9nOrWgcX98DF_ZX-2yTn4ebfPhdiBSOjuzQBtSPP0BPPX1b-z2sn7lHU4JOIGV5yvWtZenv_bM9DH88KeAtIJVg4aL_tdsMmYqVLG/s320/IMG_0006.jpg" width="217" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><i>Hot Summer Night</i></span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">1:3 gum solution, bleach etched, then</span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">oil paint applied to entire surface,</span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">7.5x11.5 inches, Arches Platine</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl-S9tfL7VaZQY3ZX4Qs7RSNJUBocfeB4MZOmeaeUB4lKym2oSLg_feErze6sl3-M5HOhKGEtXsZqOG8JvV_h4gY-5PCY8HgrHSVWVBJzQOZgM1LBhKp_YYeOS815iXnMmQcLU/s1600/IMG_0017.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl-S9tfL7VaZQY3ZX4Qs7RSNJUBocfeB4MZOmeaeUB4lKym2oSLg_feErze6sl3-M5HOhKGEtXsZqOG8JvV_h4gY-5PCY8HgrHSVWVBJzQOZgM1LBhKp_YYeOS815iXnMmQcLU/s320/IMG_0017.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A Foreboding</i><br />
1:3 gum solution, bleach etched, then oil paint applied to <br />
entire surface, 8.5x11 inches, Arches Platine</td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Getting a starker look</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">This approach is the most painterly one and shows the artist's hand more than the others. You are only limited (well, mostly) by your imagination here. You can gently brush your print after the first etch if you want to get rid of detail. The tools you use are also up to you--stiff, soft, textured, smooth, etc. The etching time depends on the look you want, but starting at less than the standard 12-16 seconds is best. You can always pop your print back into the bleach for a second or two if you're not seeing enough paint come off with brushing. Clearing in cool running water afterward for 30 minutes is the same as the other methods. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">You can either leave the print as it is after gently brushing, clearing, and allowing it to dry, or add more paint. If there is no gum resist left on the paper (this can be difficult, even impossible to see), you can add some back in with another application of gum bichromate followed by UV exposure. Sometimes you can get away with a light scrubbing to clear away areas after paint has been applied, but this really depends on how tough your paper is and whether or not there is still a hint of gum left on it. Stonehenge Rising seems to hold up better than the Arches Platine to this scrubbing, but the Arches does fairly well too. If you still aren't getting the stark look you want, consider making a positive transparency with more contrast or using a 1:3 sensitizer ratio with a slightly longer exposure time. A 1:3 gum bichromate layer tends to be the softest of the solutions I’ve tried and is easier to remove than the others. Bleach can also be selectively brush onto a print to remove paint and details and to brighten a particular area.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsmGbU5rQYSk4lzACV-dZPfyxFoe3dmfEuP5OP3GnaBIKqBGdCXnX0ZPZfRyAwnLC2j2PKyKdk7JAYTBAGsMgoEHWjEtPKuJTLb_-79fuHgBanxTrnqwr8rIOU6-KZQG3zr6fJ/s1600/IMG_9944.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsmGbU5rQYSk4lzACV-dZPfyxFoe3dmfEuP5OP3GnaBIKqBGdCXnX0ZPZfRyAwnLC2j2PKyKdk7JAYTBAGsMgoEHWjEtPKuJTLb_-79fuHgBanxTrnqwr8rIOU6-KZQG3zr6fJ/s320/IMG_9944.jpg" width="256" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Room With A View</i><br />
1:3 gum solution, bleach etched, then paint<br />
scrubbed selectively, Stonehenge Rising,<br />
16x20 inches</td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>And, gumoil over cyanotype is pretty great too.</b></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwcLb2ODZlDNFprEDBYamRbKoa9Sky8VZEdqNBagPVF-eXTRn4tyYmqW8puuE41FhdOhCQKbqJO4KBmGh1ScbgRAk2-puQkLH-3_gWSTFpuOnIeHGSEXB0BjM4yJfY4-uY4YM5/s1600/fatchanceantiques_gumoilcyanotype.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwcLb2ODZlDNFprEDBYamRbKoa9Sky8VZEdqNBagPVF-eXTRn4tyYmqW8puuE41FhdOhCQKbqJO4KBmGh1ScbgRAk2-puQkLH-3_gWSTFpuOnIeHGSEXB0BjM4yJfY4-uY4YM5/s320/fatchanceantiques_gumoilcyanotype.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fat Chance Antiques, Winchester, NH</i><br />
1:2.5 gum solution, no bleach etch,<br />
treated like a single pass print,<br />
Arches Platine, 9x9 inches</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo1aDrRcQxHtEeufrvn2fWPJ4XFIkvIGAiPC2NfVcSQFmaGjzOK-5MBO_wiYlmx3Nn-WlkWCCR7uadGJcyWPXDa8u7N_CQpKDz0y7q8Fymv_kzfUg6N5mWIykFTmKzeoBJJjPU/s1600/IMG_0891.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo1aDrRcQxHtEeufrvn2fWPJ4XFIkvIGAiPC2NfVcSQFmaGjzOK-5MBO_wiYlmx3Nn-WlkWCCR7uadGJcyWPXDa8u7N_CQpKDz0y7q8Fymv_kzfUg6N5mWIykFTmKzeoBJJjPU/s320/IMG_0891.jpg" width="242" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Twilight Trees</i><br />
1:2.5 gum solution, no bleach etch,<br />
treated like a single pass print,<br />
Arches Platine, 12x16 inches</td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Lastly, here is a short list of artists working in gumoil for reference and inspiration: Cotton Miller and Michele Rogers Pritzl here in the US. Anna Ostanina in Russia. Karena Goldfinch in Australia.</span></div>
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Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-67476378443592910002016-02-14T23:02:00.001-05:002023-01-28T15:30:26.497-05:00Gumoil<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: #660000;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">This gumoil tutorial has been updated. Please click <a href="http://kelzoshead.blogspot.com/2017/02/gumoil-20.html" target="_blank">here</a> for the updated version. Thanks for visiting</span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">!</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSCX5lhMpT2OzJxK5g1mUpcmskWbJkJrwp-myQb6okwXYv4bneo9L6aBTMWiqn-U7D9PZvEr2DaOnIg-op35zqO_dVzcutNsCstlAGyc1ycKb2a2HjhjzJVU09-kg9mNWFltZx/s1600/IMG_0835.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSCX5lhMpT2OzJxK5g1mUpcmskWbJkJrwp-myQb6okwXYv4bneo9L6aBTMWiqn-U7D9PZvEr2DaOnIg-op35zqO_dVzcutNsCstlAGyc1ycKb2a2HjhjzJVU09-kg9mNWFltZx/s640/IMG_0835.jpg" width="484" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gumoil print on Arches Platine, 1:2.5 sensitizer solution, single pass (one and done) print, wiped clean at sink, cleared in sodium metabisulphite (printed area approx. 12"x16")</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I have been working with the gumoil process for about two and a half years. I was introduced to it during an advanced alternative processes workshop in Santa Fe lead by my friend and go to mentor for all things alt pro, Christopher James. One of Christopher's assistants for the workshop was Cotton Miller, an MFA student at the time, and adjunct professor in the photography program at Lesley University's College of Art and Design. Christopher asked Cotton to teach one of the quick, pop-up style lessons we often get when everyone is settling into whatever they want to work on. I rarely miss one because they frequently introduce me to something I might not consider trying otherwise. Cotton has done some beautiful work in gumoil, and although his gumoil lesson was quick, he had me very intrigued. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The process was developed by Karl Koenig in 1990. Unfortunately, Mr Koenig passed away in 2012. I would put together a little bio of his with information on how and why he came to develop the process, but The Photographers' Formulary has already done a beautiful job of that: <a href="http://www.gumoil.com/wp-content/uploads/Karl-Koenig-February2012NL.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.gumoil.com/wp-content/uploads/Karl-Koenig-February2012NL.pdf</a> Also, an artist statement by Mr Koenig can be found here: <a href="http://www.gumoil.com/koenig-bio/" target="_blank">http://www.gumoil.com/koenig-bio/</a> His website contains many beautiful images of his gumoil and photogravure prints: <a href="http://www.gumoil.com/" target="_blank">http://www.gumoil.com</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">And of course, you can find more information in Christopher's third and latest edition of his book, The Book of Alternative Photographic Processes. The gumoil process discussion begins on page 546, and you will find one of my images on page 548. You will also find other gumoil processing options from other artists in the book. I don't think I've ever NOT used this book when working in an alternative process. I have all three editions of The Book, and it is truly indispensable. The latest edition is massive and packed with information on oodles of processes. You can buy it at Amazon: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Book-Alternative-Photographic-Processes/dp/1285089316/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452457040&sr=8-1&keywords=christopher+james%20So%20many%20processes,%20so%20little%20time." target="_blank">The Book of Alternative Photographic Processes, 3rd edition</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For more than a year now, I have debated whether or not to put this blog post together. When I first started working with the process, everything I did went wrong. Then it would work, slightly, then fall apart again. I even walked away from it for several months. Rather than pester Cotton every five minutes for help, I looked everywhere online for information and found next to nothing. There were quite a few board discussions, but no outline of a working method or any in-depth trouble shooting. I found several blog and website posts where an artist would discuss his or her initial foray into the process with the promise of more to come as things developed, then, nothing. Then, when things started to work for me, I considered why there was so little information being put out there, even by people who were clearly finding success. My method is the result of countless hours of trial and error and hundreds (and hundreds) of dollars in paper, paint, chemicals, tears, therapy…. It has been both a monster lurking in my basement darkroom (and the darker corners of my mind) and a beautiful, nearly tamed beast that suffers my attentions from time to time. After going through all of the ups and downs, ins and outs, working incredibly long hours, and investing some pretty big bucks in my efforts to get this thing to work for me, it's tough to just release it into the great wide world of the internet, where anyone, both deserving and perhaps not, can swoop in, and take it for themselves, free of the labor and the costs. To simply run with it. Free, free of the torment…. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I can say with a laugh that I'm past that now. I think I understand why so many who have found success are keeping it to themselves, and I'm sorry for the betrayal, but my photogeekness has taken over, and I must share what I know. I also know that anyone who has come here seeking the help I was seeking but couldn't find, feels my pain. I just hope this helps rather than confuses you even more.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I would also like to add that this is simply how I do things, and there is no implication here that it is the only way. There seem to be as many working methods as there are artists, so if you've come across another way of making a gumoil print or simply a different way of completing one of the steps, keep in mind, different combinations work very differently. Try a few, and find what works best for you while creating your own path. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The gumoil process begins with a negative, usually colorless, gum bichromate print. This first layer acts as a resist to oil paint that is applied after the gum layer has dried and fully hardened. Excess paint is wiped off after being allowed to sit on the paper for several minutes. This leaves the hardened gum areas lighter than the areas where there was little to no gum and where the paint has been able to get into the paper. The print is soaked in warm water then either wiped clean and left as is or "etched" with bleach to clear away some of the gum and expose the paper underneath making another pass of paint possible. Each step of the process is always finished with a cool water running water bath to remove excess chemicals and to clear away unwanted gum or paint film.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The gumoil process uses a positive transparency for the gum layer rather than a negative, so that what we end up with is a gum bichromate print in negative form. We want what will be the shadow areas in the final print to be clear of any gum resist and to be paper white in the gum print, so that when we apply our paint, it can stick to the paper in those areas. The areas containing hardened gum bichromate will resist paint, allowing the highlights and even some middle tones to be wiped clear. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Because gum bichromate tends to have a very limited tonal range (around 6 stops), you need to squeeze your highlights and shadows into a small space. In other words, if you used a normal positive image for your transparency, with a normal tonal range from deepest black to whitest white, including subtle tones in those areas and in between, you would lose detail at one end or the other during exposure. If you exposed your gum print for enough time to get what will be the darkest visible details in your shadow areas to print, your highlight details will be overexposed, becoming washed out and showing no detail in the final print. The opposite is true if you expose for your highlights, so, you need to find a good middle ground. And, because a gumoil print will be getting wiped or bleach etched for clearing, it is very lossy in terms of detail. You need to focus on maintaining (exaggerating, really) your finer details while making your positive transparency if those details are important to you. Squeezing in the tonal range while holding on to detail contrast is tricky with this process.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I am no negative/positive-making-techie-aficionado, by any stretch of the imagination, and my methods for making these things are possibly a little sketchy. I keep meaning to knuckle down and learn a proper working method… Anyway, this is what has worked for me. Whether I’m making a print using multiple passes of paint and a bleach etch or I’m making a single pass, one and done (as I like to call them) print that gets one layer of paint and no bleach etch, I always start with a rather washed out, or “flat” image for my positive transparency. This flattening out of the image is a result of reining in the far ends of the tonal range, and generally speaking, what I START with for a gumoil transparency would work okay for my regular gum bichromate printing. Further editing and contrast will need to be done for gumoil though. Regular gum bichromate printing creates a thin layer, and the final print is usually built up using multiple layers. Since building up my gum layer in gumoil isn’t something I consider an option, I make one gum layer and rely upon it to give me a range of tones and contrast. I’ve found that while maintaining a compressed tonal range is crucial, it is also important to have good contrast throughout my gum layer to allow areas of clear paper to show through while other details of the image remain intact and thick enough to act as a resist to greater and lesser degrees to oil paint. Because of this, I add contrast back into my flattened out image using Shadows/Highlights, HDR Toning, and Levels sliders, and occasionally curves in my image adjustments in Photoshop. Each image is different and because of this, I start out with a fairly mild curve that doesn’t flatten out my image quite as much as a regular gum curve would. I go back and forth between flattening out the image and building it back up a couple of times so that I can maintain good control of my details and contrast.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>For multiple pass prints, the quick, no frills way</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Keeping the above information in mind, there are times when I’m not terribly concerned about detail loss and go ahead and print my positive using the first step only: I work in Photoshop using a black and white image that is fully edited to where I like it and I add my gumoil curve. This is one that I created and always start with. It is not an extreme curve, and the reason I like to use it is because it frequently works for multiple pass prints with little to no additional Photoshop adjustments. It’s simple, but because there has been no tweaking done to the shadow and highlight details, I know there will be losses. It’s just a way to get something quickly, and it’s best for multiple pass prints that can handle a little more exposure time than single pass prints. ALL of my single pass prints get further adjusting in Photoshop for tonal range and overall contrast. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>For single pass, one and done prints, the hard way </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For my one and done prints, again working in Photoshop, I start by creating a copy (or adjustment) layer of my background to use for making adjustments. I never make the adjustments to my original background image because I want to be able to compare it to what I’m doing, and to have it around in case I want to create new layers from it later on. My first adjustment is made using the Shadows/Highlights sliders. I do this before any other adjustments because it is a form of HDR Toning that wants to broaden and evenly distribute tonal range and contrast. I like to add that little boost in detail contrast before I flatten out the tonal range with my curve. I go to Image-Adjustment-Shadows/Highlights and make some very minor adjustments to both shadows and highlights. 2-4% for each is usually plenty right now, but with this process, I can push it a little further without worrying about odd HDR effects showing in my final print. At this point, I create a copy of this layer because I will likely want to do some tweaking and comparing with a couple of different versions. To apply my gumoil curve, I go to Image-Adjustments-Curves and select and apply my curve. Next, I go to Image-Adjustments and select Levels.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">(Yep, I use Levels and not another Curves adjustment at this point in my fine tuning. Don’t know why, but it just worked out that way, and it works well for me. If you are more comfortable using the Input and Output controls in Curves, by all means, go that route.)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Since I'm going to be flattening out the image again in Levels, I pull the INPUT ends (shadows at one end and highlights at the other) back in a little to start out with a little contrast boost. Then, I take the little dropper that comes along with Levels and find a 50%(+/-) area in my image and make note of it. I want this to stay roughly where it is. I then find my darkest tone, or blackest black (usually at 99% at this point due to the curve) and make note of it. Then comes my darkest shadow detail that I want to be able to distinguish from the blackest black in my final print. Then comes the whitest white, then the lightest highlight detail that I want to distinguish from white in my final print. Using the sliders at both ends of the OUTPUT Levels, I start to lighten my shadow range and dim down my highlight range. I usually try to get my blackest black to around 90-95% (watch the percentages in the “info” tab and note the changes), my darkest shadow detail to around 80%, my middle tones roughly 48-54%, my lightest distinguishable highlight detail at around 20%, and my whitest white at about 0-5%. One or more of the sliders in the Input Levels usually need to be adjusted as well to keep my numbers where I want them. The default for Output Levels starts at 0 at the dark end and goes to 255 at the light end. I frequently have the dark end around 20(+/-) and the light end around 240(+/-). This can vary quite a bit sometimes, depending on the image I’m working with and what I want to get out of it, so think of this as a jumping off point and not something written in stone.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At this point, I add some contrast back in with with the Shadows/Highlights adjustment (usually 3-10 for shadows, 3-5 for highlights). This doesn’t work well with every image though, and I find that even the smallest amount of shadows/highlights adjusting at this point can make a change that’s too dramatic. Something I find myself doing these days is adding that boost of contrast with a little (very little) HDR Toning after I’ve gotten my positive to about where I think it needs to be. Even though this is done after applying my curve and reining in the ends of my tonal range, it can be done using very fine adjustments rather than the more automated and less refined Shadows/Highlights adjustment. (IMPORTANT NOTE: HDR toning also requires that you flatten your image. I don’t know if there is a way around this so that you can keep your background image and other layers intact.) </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I've found that doing this gradual, back and forth thing between flattening out the image then building detail contrast back in works well, and I never lose detail because I'm not making dramatic adjustments along the way.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLUaqumvYXAXFEI9Kk8K8uw_tgs5BWPJHdiYq52j8wSZyjymZagY94I_g7Vd60W8D-7OOARNpoXZfboRmlFoCVfUADMSfQT4ysbbBcigr8RbJbC8Sx-nkcsfYVUNJU9BrACvcW/s1600/IMG_0893.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLUaqumvYXAXFEI9Kk8K8uw_tgs5BWPJHdiYq52j8wSZyjymZagY94I_g7Vd60W8D-7OOARNpoXZfboRmlFoCVfUADMSfQT4ysbbBcigr8RbJbC8Sx-nkcsfYVUNJU9BrACvcW/s640/IMG_0893.jpg" width="484" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An example of overdone HDR that works, if you like the look. This was an HDR iPhone image that I converted to black and white. It shows a lot of detail, but starts to look a little too much like a drawn illustration in areas with contrast.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4PhEJkQIAGl5CyhgKpYJ8Eec7elbzVwSZzaQjDDGSWHvY7DSoiFc71R4-EBdN_88goz3tAIqcltB5Q1wzxdbaQcm0bmJxDn9yaLtXFcoSR9iuhHHsCwgvwp_Dajx8bUtPsxbu/s1600/dirtywoodsdetail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4PhEJkQIAGl5CyhgKpYJ8Eec7elbzVwSZzaQjDDGSWHvY7DSoiFc71R4-EBdN_88goz3tAIqcltB5Q1wzxdbaQcm0bmJxDn9yaLtXFcoSR9iuhHHsCwgvwp_Dajx8bUtPsxbu/s400/dirtywoodsdetail.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shadow details look fine, but...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvfI3F1mrozq_cOOvinlNGauDUHYmm33uTZY2Xnbjljbdm9DClDEdZ3C2MLdmGNfGU_0_69eG_saeA4GSBsqiQXIwD5YYbduD-16fbg9dLZosn3y7HR8mG9mXY4-hpzuSq8vA6/s1600/dirtywoodsillo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvfI3F1mrozq_cOOvinlNGauDUHYmm33uTZY2Xnbjljbdm9DClDEdZ3C2MLdmGNfGU_0_69eG_saeA4GSBsqiQXIwD5YYbduD-16fbg9dLZosn3y7HR8mG9mXY4-hpzuSq8vA6/s400/dirtywoodsillo.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...where there is contrast, there are weird outlines.</td></tr>
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;">Multiple pass prints the hard way </b><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">One and done prints seem to be the type I usually make these days, and I build my multiple pass prints off of what is working with them. I have two methods. The first is to take a positive that is working well for a one and done print and increase the contrast just a little bit. The slight increase in contrast works well with the increased exposure time (10-25% more) that will be needed because of the bleach etch that gets used for multiple pass prints. This method works best if I’m going be brave and go as far as a third, or even fourth pass. The second method is to leave my transparency as is and simply add a little more time to my exposure (10-15%). This method usually works well for just one additional pass of paint. The former method tends to yield cleaner prints with a little less of the visible grain that you get with gumoil, but the latter is quicker because the positive transparency is already printed and ready to go. I like the grain, but it really depends on the look I want. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">All of the above instructions are just jumping off points. I almost always have to go back in and make some fine adjustments to contrast after trying a print. I’ve gotten to where I treat each image differently, and the amount of contrast and detail I want and whether I’m making a one and done print or a multiple pass print can change the editing of my positive dramatically.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>If you prefer a different workflow, here are a couple of examples to eyeball</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I’m going to assume that there are people who want to work in a different way when creating their positives, so I’m including some pictures of my original images, their transparency versions, and the final prints. Hopefully, folks can emulate the look using their own workflows.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifE_f038RV-edv73jEpGEwqxYzoSkJoipPh28nfspqyQLDTXi3y5yt2Aqtk-rSCPWvUiLaPnRaeTO9QhaheQ0nSnQ4agNv_ZghOz7P2uvPsye1jZHhqaR4a-pCRzLHkeVGp1EZ/s1600/fallingiceoriginal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifE_f038RV-edv73jEpGEwqxYzoSkJoipPh28nfspqyQLDTXi3y5yt2Aqtk-rSCPWvUiLaPnRaeTO9QhaheQ0nSnQ4agNv_ZghOz7P2uvPsye1jZHhqaR4a-pCRzLHkeVGp1EZ/s640/fallingiceoriginal.jpg" width="418" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original image</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwuN3JgM2D2ilX_bM42iFnGlOEK0-N0cw_FY9bYrUGUoLxgWCXJRI2GvrfXBf9bASdXzEl4XFQUyMdMKw9L9IZHKQZ_SUiAp7fmrftUmPtg2hxDjO7eRJpAKqQkZsbeDdqkqGG/s1600/fallingiceposi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwuN3JgM2D2ilX_bM42iFnGlOEK0-N0cw_FY9bYrUGUoLxgWCXJRI2GvrfXBf9bASdXzEl4XFQUyMdMKw9L9IZHKQZ_SUiAp7fmrftUmPtg2hxDjO7eRJpAKqQkZsbeDdqkqGG/s640/fallingiceposi.jpg" width="420" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Positive transparency version</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc7CyMOU5SdXPTGQ_H3c0qP6rgEbcH1LS8JldAPizXecXOheYKrHoV0vXaeJJGyLr9-XarSqyq2gJICkxpZNqJ4TSaasWlZeN0t2KYl69cz1_Whz3t6TKqfRmGs89jU6XbaV0Q/s1600/IMG_0901.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc7CyMOU5SdXPTGQ_H3c0qP6rgEbcH1LS8JldAPizXecXOheYKrHoV0vXaeJJGyLr9-XarSqyq2gJICkxpZNqJ4TSaasWlZeN0t2KYl69cz1_Whz3t6TKqfRmGs89jU6XbaV0Q/s640/IMG_0901.jpg" width="432" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Final gumoil print on Arches Platine, 1:2.5 sensitizer solution, single pass, wiped clean at sink, cleared in sodium metabisulphite (printed area approx 11.5"x17.5")</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxMbGh8CErBWLrfAZCv20tTpvaFATPC42P79HTlLmW-2pJ0H9KviusW826XldFGVX61IErJiuXhAWk12knhcJzkT4iB_240JuzpWeHsMMOMk4FotnZ4eAHDS0Ttqt3Ra7ETY_I/s1600/forsaleoriginal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxMbGh8CErBWLrfAZCv20tTpvaFATPC42P79HTlLmW-2pJ0H9KviusW826XldFGVX61IErJiuXhAWk12knhcJzkT4iB_240JuzpWeHsMMOMk4FotnZ4eAHDS0Ttqt3Ra7ETY_I/s400/forsaleoriginal.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original image</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4a5Q3WmAHKHNZSJTKxwhMaaorzcxACfG9NDXxIuRmHPijCXzcVChT0oLQ_ROIj8-s9xd-ZB5xp0D3v791UuCvXzPm8EMq6PZdDE3zFsPCsYKdF07EkexGFaGdU1Wddwdlu441/s1600/forsaleposi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4a5Q3WmAHKHNZSJTKxwhMaaorzcxACfG9NDXxIuRmHPijCXzcVChT0oLQ_ROIj8-s9xd-ZB5xp0D3v791UuCvXzPm8EMq6PZdDE3zFsPCsYKdF07EkexGFaGdU1Wddwdlu441/s400/forsaleposi.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Positive transparency version</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwRm4FkxO7IyzFGztIgCC1j8vODNjxh73042wwyOoGavwk89uo6c0xsApzBQAXdbliTTwk6Ag9Sp32zX_Gw4EqdUCL3pi7kBoUETWEEoAj3-eKbtcSnEatKjgUwa9Jk2DZcw7v/s1600/IMG_0889.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwRm4FkxO7IyzFGztIgCC1j8vODNjxh73042wwyOoGavwk89uo6c0xsApzBQAXdbliTTwk6Ag9Sp32zX_Gw4EqdUCL3pi7kBoUETWEEoAj3-eKbtcSnEatKjgUwa9Jk2DZcw7v/s400/IMG_0889.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Final gumoil print on Arches Platine, 1:2.5 sensitizer solution, single pass, wiped clean at sink, cleared in sodium metabisulphite (printed area approx 17.25"x11.5")</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At this point, I’m ready to print my transparency. I go to Image-Image Rotation-Flip Horizontal so that when I place the printed side of my transparency in contact with the surface of my paper, it will print in the proper orientation. I use a Canon iPF5000 that does not need any ink output adjusting. It’s pretty close to WYSIWYG in terms of going from screen to transparency. Often, any further adjustments to what I want to see in my highlight and shadow details can be made by adjusting my exposure time, but sometimes, it’s back to the old drawing board.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The sensitized emulsion (sensitizer) </span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Potassium dichromate solution</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The sensitizer used for the gum bichromate (also called gum dichromate) layer is a mixture of saturated potassium dichromate solution and gum arabic. This is also what one uses when making a gum bichromate print, but the ratio of dichromate to gum is different, and there is typically no pigment added for gumoil. Many gummists consider a 13% solution of potassium dichromate to be saturated, but I use a pre-mixed solution from Bostick and Sullivan that is a 10% mixture. It's what they sell specifically for gum printing and works quite well. Potassium dichromate is nasty stuff. It is considered carcinogenic and mutagenic, among other things. Use caution with this chemical. Keep it off your skin, out of your eyes and mouth, and do not breath it in either in powder form or in mist form if you are spritzing your prints to clear excess hardened gum. If you are mixing the dichromate yourself from a powder, to make a 13% solution, add 13 grams of potassium dichromate powder to every 100ml distilled water. A 10% solution would be 10g in 100ml distilled water, and so on. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Ratio makes a difference in the sensitizer</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The ratio of dichromate to gum that I was taught to use is what Koenig used--1 part potassium dichromate to 3 parts gum arabic. This is what I used for the first several months that I worked with the process. I had mixed results that were far from predictable, but a lot of that unpredictability might have come from my own inconsistency in all of the variables that exist in this process. In any case, after many losses and few gains, I shelved my work with gumoil for several months. It was the gains that brought me back. The magic of seeing a print come to life after a rinse is very exciting, so I decided to give it another chance. Right from the start, things just fell into place. There was consistency, predictability, and I was happy. One day I realized that the 1:2 solution (dichromate:gum) I was using wasn't what I was supposed to be using. I don't know how I ended up using a 1:2 solution rather than the 1:3, but wrong was right for me. I now typically use a 1:2.5 solution. This is what works best with the Arches Platine that I use most often, but I've found that thicker, more fibrous or velvety papers yield better prints with the traditional 1:3 solution. The 1:3 solution is thicker and tends to flake off in larger bits when I use it on Arches Platine, but the velvety papers hold onto it better. With less dichromate, the 1:3 is also slightly less light sensitive, and this is something to take into consideration when switching papers and ratios. I seem to need 10-15% more exposure time when using a 1:3 sensitizer mixture.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The gum layer</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The first layer of the gumoil process is made using the gum bichromate solution described above. A positive transparency (NOT a negative) is used during exposure utilizing either sunlight or a UV exposure unit. During exposure, the gum bichromate hardens to greater and lesser degrees, depending on the density of the areas within the positive transparency. The unhardened gum is washed away in the first rinse following exposure.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">When coating your paper, you want a smooth finish without any obvious brush strokes or gaps that allow plain paper to show through. The amount of thickness also needs to be uniform. If the coating is too thick, it will tend to flake off in the rinse. Applying it too thinly can result in a coating that is not uniform, leaving paper exposed where you don't want it to be. Though, if you do it well, you can get a nice effect with a creative brush application of the gum bichromate.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Brushes</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I use Richeson synthetic flat wash brushes for almost all of my alternative process coating. They hold liquid nicely, clean up better than a lot of cheaper brushes, leave a fine, smooth coating, hold up well over time, and don't leave debris in my coating. I quarantine them--no using the same brush for different processes. If you're going to use the sponge type of brush that Koenig is shown using in his YouTube video, get good ones. The cheaper ones have larger bubbles/holes, and tend to feel more plastic-y. The better ones are made of denser foam, feel soft to the touch, and those bubbles/holes are much tinier. The denser foam brushes create a smoother finish than the cheap ones, and tend to leave less debris in the gum layer. I feel that foam brushes leave too many bubbles in my coating, especially two or three sheets in, and when they start to wear out, they all leave little bits of themselves behind. They don't hold up well to multiple uses, so you'll be throwing them away rather frequently, and they soak up a lot of your sensitizer. They are considerably less expensive than the Richeson brushes up front though, so if you're just looking to get your feet wet with the process, you might want to start with the foam. Get the widest brush you can for your sheet. For prints that are in the 11x17 range, I use a 3" brush. This helps keep the coating smooth and even. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Coating the paper</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Mix enough solution ahead of time to cover all of your prints with a little left over. As much as I hate wasting solution, having extra is always better than trying to spread a thin layer over a sheet of paper just to find it's not enough--wasting paper is even worse. Before coating, I lay my transparency on top of my paper and make little marks in the corners that are about 3/4" larger than the actual printed area of the transparency. The reason for this large border is that the edges of the gum layer tend to develop an uneven texture from the brush. It's best to have this well outside the print area to avoid flaking off in thicker spots. To cover 3, 11"x17" print areas on Arches Platine (not the paper size, but the size of my transparency plus a little extra), I mix 10ml potassium dichromate to 25ml gum arabic (1:2.5) making 35ml of solution. Using my watercolor brush, I get full coverage for those three sheets with just a little left over. If you're using a foam brush, you will have to mix more because the brush soaks up a lot of the solution. Some papers that have a little more surface texture, like the Rives BFK that I also frequently use, need more sensitizer to cover well.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Before applying your sensitizer, dampen your brush in distilled water then gently press out the excess with a paper towel. When loading the brush with sensitizer, I make sure it is full but not dripping when I go to the paper. I apply the sensitizer at a corner first, brushing along a border, heading toward another corner. Then another corner and border, and filling in the center as I go. This helps keep the borders neat, especially on larger prints. After I get all the solution I will need on the paper, I start to smooth it out, working quickly. I work one direction at a time: all strokes left to right, then top to bottom, then right to left, then bottom to top. Smooth, steady, even strokes. I keep going until I feel the gum starting to tug at the brush. If I go too long, the brush starts to skip across the gum, and this leaves marks in the coating that can show in the final print. If you find little bits of pet hair, brush fibers or sponge debris in the solution on your paper, remove it before the gum gets too dry and brush to smooth out any marks you made. If your coating is too tacky to remove the debris, leave it until after the coating is dry and carefully try to remove it before exposure. (wear gloves! even dry, this stuff still has active dichromate in it!!) If you can't get it out, then go ahead and expose anyway, but know that it might leave an open area in the paper and that area will take paint. I try to put these little bits of debris into the darker areas of the print so they won't show. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Let the coated paper dry completely</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After the paper is coated and the surface has started to go from shiny to matte, it is hung to dry in a dark, dry space. The paper will have a crispness to it when it's dry, and it won't have cool spots on the back where the moisture is still evaporating. In my (relatively dry) basement, it usually takes about 3 hours to dry, but I still hit the backs of each sheet with a hair dryer for 2-3 minutes (larger prints) just to make sure they are completely dry. If there are any damp areas in the paper, the sensitizer won't expose evenly, so drier is better. Some folks keep their gum coated paper in a dry, dark place for a few days, but I don't like leaving mine unused for more than 10 hours or so. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Though gum bichromate isn't very light-sensitive until it is dry, use safelights or yellow "twinkle" lights (LED christmas lights) when coating and whenever handling your freshly sensitized paper to err on the side of caution. I use Philips Hue lightbulbs. I can change the color and brightness of my lights using an app--very convenient! Once your exposed paper is in the water, you can turn the white lights on.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For exposure, I use a UV unit that was designed for screen printing. It is an aluminum box with the lights below, and a sheet of glass above. The paper I'm going to expose is placed face down on the glass with a negative or positive transparency in between. I use either a contact print frame or compression (sheet of plexiglass with weights on top) to keep the transparency in firm contact with the paper. The 36"x36" exposure area on this unit is great for large prints. UV units give you a boost in predictability that working with the sun does not afford, but yes, they can be expensive. There are plenty of DIY instructions online for building one, so you might want to look into making one for yourself.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Many of my prints these days are single pass, one and done prints. My exposures with a 1:2.5 solution, my type of transparency, and Arches Platine take between 4 and 6 minutes for a one and done print. Rives BFK off-white takes just a smidge more time than the Platine, and if I use a 1:3 solution, it will take a little longer still. Using a 1:2.5 solution with Stonehenge Rising takes 10-15% more time than the Platine. Unfortunately, there is no way for me to describe what your gum layer should look like immediately after exposing because a very wide range of exposures will give you fully realized negative images before washing and clearing the print. What it looks like after clearing is what's most important. The areas that will be your darkest blacks should be paper white or very nearly so. You should be able to see your darkest shadow details in faint relief when looking at the paper from different angles if not straight on. You should be able to see definition in the denser areas of the wet print as well (what will be your highlights). Before developing a better positive transparency working method, I used to expose my gum print to where it was just about to lose it's highlight detail. Using this method, I didn't always get shadow detail I wanted, so again, getting the positive transparency right is crucial. Doing test strips helps considerably. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Things to consider when adjusting the gum layer for a second pass (layer) of paint</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The above paragraph is describing what I do for single pass, one and done, prints--one layer of paint and no more. I don't typically attempt a multiple pass print until after I've gotten a good single pass print working. After I've got a good single pass print, I start working from it to get a multiple pass print. When making multiple pass prints, I will be etching the gum to open up areas of paper to let in more paint. This etching means I'll need more exposure time and/or more contrast in my positive transparency to give the gum bichromate a little more thickness. Some prints will only be getting one additional pass of paint and only need a little extra exposure time to allow for the etching. A 10-15% increase often works well for this type of print. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Sometimes I'm just adding one light pass of paint and can get away with using the same exposure time I would for a single pass version. Etching can do a lot of damage very quickly though and can be difficult to judge. Shooting for a second pass with a single pass exposure often yields a much grainier image as well.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For prints getting more than two additional passes of paint, I will slightly increase the contrast in my positive and add 10-25% more exposure time to allow for multiple bleach etchings. Every time you etch, it's a bit unpredictable and becomes increasingly more so with each subsequent etch. I've rarely gotten a truly successful fourth pass of paint, and even the third passes I've done were often a dicey business at best. You might also want to try using a 1:3 sensitizer ratio with an even longer exposure for multiple passes. This ratio creates a softer gum layer, and you might find you like it more for bleach etching and multiple passes. I find it to be more unstable and less predictable though. A change from 1:2.5 solution to a 1:3, for 2 or more passes, could easily go to 25% more exposure time, if not more.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Paint block-up with long exposures</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">One very strange phenomenon I came across early on was having large areas of my print "block-up" with oil paint despite the fact that I could clearly see gum in areas that weren't releasing the paint, and I knew that I had given the exposure a lot of time (8-10 minutes). The paint just wouldn't wipe off where it had done so in many other prints. So, you would think the logical response would be to expose longer, right? Huh-uh. A longer exposure only made it worse. In an angry fit, I even let one go for something like 15 or 16 minutes to just completely gum up the entire surface, and it raged right back at me by completely blocking up with paint--none of it wiped clean! I found at least one other tortured soul in an online discussion board seeking help when he or she had the same problem. I have no idea why exposing the gum for too long would cause it to stop acting as a resist to the oil paint, but it seems you can do just that if your exposures are way too long. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Clearing the gum bichromate negative print</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After exposure, the print will be a negative and will have gold to medium-dark brown areas in it. Don't fall in love with it. It will change A LOT after rinsing. First, it gets a soak in very warm to hot tap water (not so hot that you couldn't keep your hand down in it) for 10 minutes. Sorry, I know the lack of exact temps here will drive some people nuts, but unlike film developing, it doesn't seem to make much difference as long as the water is at least very warm. After the 10 minute soak, I give it a gentle, warm water spray with my hose end sprayer at my sink. (Note: wet gum bichromate has a sort of mushy thickness to it that rinses off in tiny bits, so as you can imagine, the little details of your image can get lost in this mushiness and in the clearing stage. It also stands to reason that bigger prints yield greater detail. If detail is important to you, print as large as you can to get the greatest detail.) Koenig used a spritz bottle to get bits of gum bichromate out of those small detail areas to open up the paper and allow oil paint to get in. I've never had success with a spritz bottle because it always removed too much gum bichromate and did so unevenly. I turn the water pressure way down when using my hose end sprayer so it doesn't create a mist the way a spritz bottle does, and I'm not worried about breathing in dichromate particles. Consider your situation carefully, and act accordingly. The print is then washed in a cool running water bath for 30 minutes, and very gently sprayed once again, this time with cool water, before hanging to dry for a few hours. At this point, the print is but a faint version of its former self. It will be a very pale, sort of olive-gray-green color. Be sure to observe the print at different angles to the light while it's wet and look for the detail in what will be your final print shadow areas. Has it washed away? If so, increase your exposure time or rework your positive transparency. Have the areas that will be your highlights become blocked up, showing little detail or contrast? This might still print well if you're doing some etching and multiple passes, but if you want a single pass print, you might have to shorten your exposure time or rework your positive transparency.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">DO NOT LEAVE YOUR PAPER IN ANY OF THE CLEARING OR WASHING TRAYS FOR TOO LONG. You can end up leaving your gum layer in the rinse for too long and lose too much gum. You might still get a decent single pass print from it, but you may not get the opportunity to do any etching if too much of your gum washed away while you were clearing it with water.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The paper</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Arches Platine is a beautiful paper, and it's my go-to paper for many alternative processes. It has a very slightly velvety surface and holds up very well in water, even after multiple passes through trays of chemicals, coats of paint and dichromate, rinsing, repeat, repeat, etc. It also tends to shrink less than most papers, making any registration easier. It's just a very good paper. I also use Stonehenge Rising paper, but the 320gsm (120lb?) version is getting harder to come by in anything smaller than 30"x44". The Stonehenge has a harder size in it, and because of this, the gum layer needs about 10-15% more exposure time than the Platine for the same end result. Rives BFK (280gsm) is a traditional printmaking paper, and it feels similar to the Platine before wetting, but the fibers are raised considerably after wetting. After the gum layer is processed, the paper will have a little more texture to it than with the Platine. This means that the paper will hold more paint though, so the blacks are richer, and colors more intense but usually at the expense of finer detail. Just a slight difference, but if you're picky about detail, consider adding just a little more exposure time for this paper if you're going from Arches Platine to it. I use the off-white, and like it a lot as an alternative to the bright white of the Platine. The buff color BFK seems like a completely different paper and didn't work well at all when I tried it. I've also used Twinrocker watercolor paper with some success. Lastly, if you use the back side of the Platine, it works a lot like the smooth side of the BFK off-white and holds onto the paint more. It does have a different texture than the front, and I waver back and forth about it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>In brief:</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Favorite paper is Arches Platine. Smoother finish, finer detail, but slightly lighter black, paler colors, backside yields deeper black but has different texture and might yield less detail. Less shrinkage than with most other papers I’ve tried.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2nd favorite is Rives BFK 280gsm off-white. Deeper black, colors more intense, but small details can get lost, and paper shows more texture. Also needs slightly longer exposure.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">3rd favorite is Stonehenge Rising 320gsm. Finer detail, but blacks and colors are a little lighter. Only available in very large size. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The paint (not all paints are created equal…)</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A good place to start with gumoil is a rich, deep, black. Lamp black fits this description better than any others that I know of. There are artist grade paints and student or economy paints. Always buy the former. Student and economy paints are cheap for good reason: they don't hold up well and colors often are not permanent. As a painter, I tend to use good quality, artist oil paints. Though I'm not really a fan of Winsor and Newton paints, I started doing gumoil with a Winsor and Newton lamp black because it was available in a large tube, and hey, it's a carbon based black that won't fade, regardless of who makes it. And yellowing? You only have to worry about that with light colors, right? Eventually, I moved on to a lamp black by Williamsburg which is a better quality. I was also using my favorite Gamblin paints for the colors. Loved them a lot. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Then, this happened…</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This past Thanksgiving, my husband and I took some gumoil prints to his mom's house to show her what we'd been working on. I had just spent a couple of months making several prints and taking careful notes for this gumoil tutorial blog post, and was feeling excited about posting. That was until I pulled out some of my older prints. Many were yellowing badly wherever the paint was. Even the ones I had just made were starting to show some very pale yellowing. I had never noticed it. The older the print, the uglier the yellowing. It was bleeding through the backs of some of the prints in the shapes of the images on the front, and the yellowing was also bleeding out from the paint areas into the front of the paper. This was true of the prints made with the Winsor and Newton artist paints and both the Williamsburg and Gamblin artist paints. I was gutted. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwLMff20VOelkw9EqNhQKgZYqDaoGHYDbppSB_fDuxRlAJ8jNhY4IfOtxTovt-G6J2cIirXrTo12ZNngZnNtox4bkglrXmGXqbHys7kppStB6oGfihiAcybFsNRX4rTh9r6gcS/s1600/IMG_0909.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwLMff20VOelkw9EqNhQKgZYqDaoGHYDbppSB_fDuxRlAJ8jNhY4IfOtxTovt-G6J2cIirXrTo12ZNngZnNtox4bkglrXmGXqbHys7kppStB6oGfihiAcybFsNRX4rTh9r6gcS/s400/IMG_0909.jpg" width="308" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back of a print that is roughly 2 1/2 years old and has badly yellowed linseed oil on it.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>The good news</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After some research and some paint testing, I am convinced it was the linseed oil in the paints I was using. Although both Williamsburg and Gamblin use what they call refined linseed oil (very common practice) that is less likely to yellow than lower quality linseed oil, the oils they use were still turning yellow after soaking into the paper I'd made my gumoils with. The Winsor and Newton and Williamsburg were much worse than the Gamblin but still caused too much visible yellowing for my taste. After some more research and testing, I now use M Graham oil paints made with walnut oil for my gumoil printing. These paints are wonderful, and none are yellowing on me well over a month after having been applied to paper. Even if they do show some yellowing later on, it should be minimal. There are paints made with safflower and poppy seed oils that apparently do little to no yellowing as well, and may do so even less than the walnut oil based paints. They are more expensive though, and this process eats a lot of paint, so paint cost is something you might need to consider. Sennelier Extra-Fine Artist Oil Paints are closest in price to the M Graham, and I will probably try these after my current supply of M Graham blacks gets used up. Maimeri Puro is made with safflower and poppy seed oils, but they are more than double the cost of the M Graham.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Colors</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Lamp black is a great black, but not all paint makers make it. Ivory and mars blacks are also nice blacks, a little lighter in tonality, perhaps, but good. As far as colors are concerned, check manufacturers' websites for the lightfastness of each color; it can vary considerable with less stable pigments. Reds can be tough in terms of stability. Stay away from alizarin crimson altogether. It just doesn't have a great lightfastness coming from any brand. There are also differences in the transparency of paints. Opaques tend to have less oil (lean paints) and transparents tend to have more oil (fat). Transparent paints are frequently very high chroma (intense color), and the combination of a lot of oil and a lot of color can mean staining, even in areas where you don't want it. Manufacturers usually state on their websites whether their individual colors are opaque, transparent, or somewhere in between.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Oil-based etching inks and water mixable-oil etching inks and paints</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The oil-based etching inks that I tried were a no-go. They were too hard to rub on and impossible to wipe off. After that experience, I didn't even try the water-mixable etching inks I have, but I did try a water-mixable oil paint. It was interesting and might be worth looking into further at some point. Initially, the dry print wiped cleaner than the ones made with oil-based paints tend to, but as expected, the paint started to wash away once the print was put into a tray of water, and further attempts at wiping highlight areas after the paint and paper were wet just made them muddy and messy. Next time, I think I'll try wiping areas clean with a damp sponge or soft cloth after the initial excess paint wiping is done. This would likely leave me with no option for a second pass of paint though, but it would certainly cut down on the mess in my darkroom sink. I might not have an opportunity to clear highlights with sodium metabisulphite either, so a thinner gum layer might be in order. Perhaps after having an opportunity to dry, these water-mixable oil paints might become less likely to wash away in a rinse, and clearing the highlights in sodium metabisulphite might be an option. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Paint application</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Prepping your paint</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After your gum bichromate negative print has dried completely, it's time to apply the paint. I make sure the paper is dry by blow drying it for 30 seconds or so. (NOTE: A strange thing happened recently. I forgot to blow dry one of three prints one day, and it came out darker than the other two. Although this could be due to some other processing anomaly, I can't help but wonder if it's like taking a damp cloth to wood before staining which helps raise the grain, allowing the wood to absorb the stain better. Just a thought.) If you're starting with a mixed color, make sure you have mixed enough ahead of time to cover the entire area you intend to use it in. You might not be able to mix the exact color halfway through the application, leaving you with an uneven color application. If you're going with an unmixed black or other paint that doesn't need mixing, just squeeze out as much as you think you'll need. If any excess oil comes out of the tube along with the pigment, soak it up with a paper towel--don't mix it in. You want as little oil in the paper as possible. If there is still some oil around the paint that you can't soak up, don't worry about it but do mix it in before you grab some and start applying it to your paper. I use a paper palette pad, and I cover any leftover paint with plastic wrap to keep it from setting up for as long as possible.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Tape down the gum print</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I like to tape off the edges of my print before adding paint to keep it neat and clean. If I wanted to be really neat and uniform, I would also be taping the paper before applying the gum bichromate, but I haven't gotten that picky yet. I use a very low tack tape that I get through amazon that is made by Protapes or Pro Scenic: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/ProTapes-Pro-Acrylic-Release-Painters/dp/B00DVCZUDG/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1453626559&sr=1-4&keywords=low+tack+masking+tape+pro+scenic" target="_blank">Pro Scenic Tape</a>. It is sold as a painter's tape and has gotten mixed reviews for use in that way because it doesn't stick as well as some DIYers would like, but it's perfect for this purpose. It is far less likely to damage my paper than any other tape I've tried, and I feel it would make a great all around artist's masking tape, if not for the color. 3M also makes a white low tack paper "labeling" tape that I believe uses the same type of adhesive as their Post-it notes pads but is more expensive than the purple tape I use. I tape right up to the edges of my print border and right out onto my table. This also keeps the paper steady for me as I wipe paint on and off of my print. Remove the tape before processing at the sink.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Brush, or cloth?</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I started out using stippling or stencil brushes for paint application. It's a good way to get a lot of paint onto the paper rather quickly. One technique is to sort of stab at the paper with the loaded brush to get the paint into the paper fibers. I've found that with a good gum layer, I don't need to do this. I now use a lint-free cloth for paint application that I purchase through Tap Plastics: <a href="http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cleaners_polishes/lint_free_wipes/540" target="_blank">lint free cloths</a>. I cut each sheet into quarters, and gently, but firmly, rub the paint onto the paper. I have more control this way than when using a brush. I also waste less paint, and I don't have to worry about cleaning brushes, which is messy and tends to waste a lot of rags and/or paper towels. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Wiping paint off again </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I leave the paint on the paper for 15-20 minutes before wiping it off. I use Viva towels for wiping the paint off. They are old school paper towels that resemble workshop towels. They are more felt-like and less like something that might look good as a bed coverlet in larger form. No fancy quilting, patterns, colors or anything with these towels. They absorb the paint nicely, and hold up to the tacky nature of what's left of the paint on the surface of your paper. I fold them over twice, and keep unfolding and refolding to keep the clean areas ready for use. I wipe until I can see the details in my image (it will be a positive at this point) and there is just a faint hint of paint still showing up on my paper towel after wiping. There will be a gray (or whatever color you choose to start with) haze over everything. You can wipe too hard and for too long though. If you find that your shadow areas are getting too light, then you are either wiping too aggressively, or you need to rework your positive or shorten your gum exposure time.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj48dcX7cPY_FVRonAx-K4LtamYdAwBTLjJXa9pZau56dbKg1ZnIJ4NXWwZ2V_aTE27fQR6l17lhxv1g-Lx2w1BusYa2omWGZg90GzxDqR58FRQSLhUAtg2k2srESkprOoK5Lxo/s1600/tape1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj48dcX7cPY_FVRonAx-K4LtamYdAwBTLjJXa9pZau56dbKg1ZnIJ4NXWwZ2V_aTE27fQR6l17lhxv1g-Lx2w1BusYa2omWGZg90GzxDqR58FRQSLhUAtg2k2srESkprOoK5Lxo/s400/tape1.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taped down print that has had the excess paint wiped off</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At this point, you can leave the paint on the paper for a little while. I would think an hour or so wouldn't do any permanent damage, but if you wait too long to clear the gray haze of excess paint out of your highlights, it can start to stick and stain.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Start with a brief soak</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Whether you're going for a single pass, one and done print or doing multiple passes, your print now goes into a warm water bath. Leave it face down for 3-5 minutes, making certain there are no bubbles trapped under the paper. You will likely see some of the paint lifting off the paper and floating around in your tray at this stage, which is normal. After soaking, I rinse my prints with a gentle spray from the hose end sprayer at my sink to remove some of the loose paint. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>To etch, or not to etch</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It was funny seeing some of the conversations in online forums between the (bleach) etchers and the non-etchers. The etchers couldn't understand how the non-etchers could get any sort of print without using bleach to clear away some of the gum and paint, and the non-etchers couldn't understand how anyone could use bleach because for them, it always removed too much, if not all, of their images. Some were frustrated and angry, and lot of them were like me--lost and just all over the place. Again, there was no clear instruction either way, so I fumbled through a lot of trial and error until I had decent results with both. You don't need to bleach etch to get a great print, but I almost always etch if I'm going to do more than one pass, or layer, of paint.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Single pass, one and done, print</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After the 3-5 minute soak in warm water and a gentle spray, I place my print on a sheet of plexi that is sitting in my sink and leaning against a wall. I then gently wipe the print with either a soft cloth or sponge, alternating directions and gently rinsing the print with my hose sprayer and warm water. (NOTE: I do not wipe a print at this stage if it is going to be bleach etched) The print then goes into a sodium metabisulphite bath to clear the highlights. The concentration I use is .75%, or 45 grams in 6 liters of water. A 1% solution is what many gummists use for clearing (10g sodium metabisulphite/liter of water), but it can be pretty strong and might loosen up too much of the gum, allowing some of the paint to wash away where you don't want it to. I leave my prints in this clearing bath for 2 to 4 minutes, agitating from time to time and checking to see if my image is holding. You should see the color of the gum bichromate in your highlights change from a slightly warm tone to a lighter, cooler one. After removing my print from this clearing bath, I put it back onto the plexi, and rinse it with my hose sprayer with warm water, gently wiping areas to clear them a little more. Cotton balls and Q-tips work nicely. If you find that you are losing too much of your image at this point but liked the way it looked before it went into the sodium metabisulphite clearing bath, then forgo the clearing next time if you're okay with the dichromate color in your highlights. I'm not a fan of it myself. I have yet to lose anything I don't want to in my clearing bath. If the positive, the sensitizer ratio, and the exposure are working properly, loss of image in the clearing bath is never a problem for me. In fact, I can't even remember it ever happening to me, unless I've done a bleach etch first. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If you are losing too much of your image after wiping but before the clearing bath, then try a shorter exposure time. If this yields shadows that are blocked up and lacking detail, then rework your positive and either brighten your shadow details or darken your highlight details to bring the two ends of your extremes closer together. Remember, too wide a range in tonal scale does not work well with gum bichromate or gumoil. If your print starts out too dark, then go the other route--try a longer exposure. If you lose highlight detail, again, rein in the tonal range of your positive. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here are a few examples of my one and done prints, all on Arches Platine, using a 1:2.5 sensitizer ratio, wiped clean at the sink, and cleared in sodium metabisulphite. All printed areas are approximately 11.5"x17.5":</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD8BxQnpulLbQVHkTHIE7XkltwPGJDETKiUyKpc0A39601ihB9zd8dyTlGt-1gUM3zq51k1aiPwBVSxMJWlqLBH4bLdoWefN9-zSclfbG_hy3aVnif9m9Et8rjBCeSaLefIJHa/s1600/IMG_0819.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD8BxQnpulLbQVHkTHIE7XkltwPGJDETKiUyKpc0A39601ihB9zd8dyTlGt-1gUM3zq51k1aiPwBVSxMJWlqLBH4bLdoWefN9-zSclfbG_hy3aVnif9m9Et8rjBCeSaLefIJHa/s640/IMG_0819.jpg" width="438" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJd-2M0iarmJVOBRxJucESrDMPxr2OHgsMFQEcjwNfgx7eJyWgxbiQOGwecyiYkWmigDjdaevPh47-KOWawaxrAdKaH2XAfOoWu19su0HoH51oaMFIgwb-VQ6UYbb_Dh9y5zej/s1600/IMG_0908.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJd-2M0iarmJVOBRxJucESrDMPxr2OHgsMFQEcjwNfgx7eJyWgxbiQOGwecyiYkWmigDjdaevPh47-KOWawaxrAdKaH2XAfOoWu19su0HoH51oaMFIgwb-VQ6UYbb_Dh9y5zej/s400/IMG_0908.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Adding color to a one and done print</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After the print has dried, if you like, you can wipe on a thin layer or oil paint, but remove it quickly. After disturbing the gum layer by wiping it, it has gained some texture and no longer works the way it would if you were going to etch your print to clear some of the paint and gum. The paint wants to stick even where gum is still present, so I tend to wipe it off as I'm wiping it on. I don't put the print back into water again because too much of the paint comes off in some areas while sticking badly to others, creating an unattractive texture. Instead, to clear some highlight areas, I use a damp cloth or Q-tips. To be honest, I'm usually not too fond of what I get if I add oil paint after wiping my wet print clean at the sink (one and done). I do like to add color with oil-based color pencils though. No special techniques here, just add color like a kid with crayons and a coloring book. I haven't tried watercolor with a "one and done" print yet but have used them effectively after the etching process.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBfORpPBg-09J5Ftqur2V6_zlxxSB5TKmVSKea_-DnR5fYhZiixw7ft0m7eCpn8YlrBSdEK0jP-YpkGBmUMABwmTELwgfURh67VgUqtZFXttyaNDsm5TtnES1h8wyUV4rEwu0M/s1600/IMG_0882.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBfORpPBg-09J5Ftqur2V6_zlxxSB5TKmVSKea_-DnR5fYhZiixw7ft0m7eCpn8YlrBSdEK0jP-YpkGBmUMABwmTELwgfURh67VgUqtZFXttyaNDsm5TtnES1h8wyUV4rEwu0M/s640/IMG_0882.jpg" width="492" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of my single pass, no etch prints that has been colored with oil based pencils</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>And, there is always that exception:</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This is a single pass print that got a bleach etch but no second pass of paint.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimKtgEVThl3e58Q0XgSleQCXRCqu28DgFHW5HeHvesaNgULO2zizmykdOT74E5YUm1mLYhY0aVjFnV_93Ihg7Of6jeXUqAaVQvlRt-YbrpgMBj0N4HXJCebjhbvhndFgfXdFa-/s1600/IMG_0826.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimKtgEVThl3e58Q0XgSleQCXRCqu28DgFHW5HeHvesaNgULO2zizmykdOT74E5YUm1mLYhY0aVjFnV_93Ihg7Of6jeXUqAaVQvlRt-YbrpgMBj0N4HXJCebjhbvhndFgfXdFa-/s640/IMG_0826.jpg" width="490" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Single pass print on Arches Platine, 1:2 sensitizer ratio (note the ratio) that was etched in a 1:6 (note that ratio as well) bleach etch for a count of 8 mississippis then washed. (printed area is approx. 12"x16")</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Multiple pass print using a bleach etch</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">IMPORTANT NOTE: I do not wipe my print after soaking as I would for a single pass, one and done print. I feel it removes too much of the gum and paint before putting it into the etching bath. This etching method also yields less fine detail in my experience, which can be either a good thing or a bad thing, depending on what you want. Bleach etching can allow you to create a beautiful stark look if done well. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After wiping the excess paint off the dry print at my work table, I remove my tape and place the print into a tray of warm water to soak for 3-5 minutes making sure there are no bubbles trapped underneath, then give it a gentle spray with my hose sprayer. After the soak in warm water, I place the print into an etching bath that is a 1:8 solution of household chlorine bleach and tap water--1 part bleach to 8 parts water. In a 16x20 inch tray, I usually use 500ml of bleach and 4 liters of water. The bleach acts very quickly, and I count seconds in my head the absolutely nontechnical way (a metronome would be better): one-mississippi, two-mississippi, etc, for 12 to 16 seconds, then put it into fresh, cool water. I take my print out of the bleach before I'm finished counting to let it drain off a bit then try to get it into the fresh water as I'm counting that last second. When dealing with such short amounts of time, every second counts, so don't hold your print over the bleach tray after you have finished counting just to let it drain off. The bleach is still eating away at your gum layer while you're doing this. You also don't want to carry a lot of the bleach with your print into your tray of fresh water. If you have room for a second tray of fresh water, move your print from the first tray of fresh water and into the second after several seconds to further dilute any residual bleach. </span></div>
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<b style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Etching time is crucial but difficult to get right</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Although the standard time for the first etch is 12-16 seconds, the time you need really depends on everything you have done to this point--the tonal range of your positive, the sensitizer ratio, how thickly (or thinly) you've applied the sensitizer, your exposure time, how long you left your gum layer in the rinse, etc, etc, etc. If you etch for too long, a lot of your detail washes away. And I'm not just talking about bits of paint, as this happens normally after an etch, but rather, the gum itself. With too much of the gum gone, there is no hope of any further detail. Any time you etch, you will simply lose SOME of the fine detail, never to return. This is one of the inherent traits of the process that I am drawn to--the contrasty, grainy nature of gumoil that is a result of a print that has been etched and had a second pass of paint applied. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Clear and hang to dry</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A minute or so after placing my print in fresh water, I move it to a cool, running water wash for 30 minutes to clear the bleach from the print. When it's time to remove it, the gum is very fragile, so I don't disturb it with a spray from my hose sprayer, and I don't brush or touch it in any way. I will, however, let the water from an open hose at my sink run very gently and smoothly across the surface of the print while it's still in the tray, then hang it to dry. You can get a similar effect by gently washing water over the print with your hand to clear away any stubborn gum or oil paint film, being careful not to splash too harshly. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Another trick for gently clearing away some stubborn bits after you have etched your print and it has come out of the final rinse is to hang it by a corner for a couple of minutes, rotating it once to keep the surface evenly wet, then place it back into the water. For some reason, letting air get to the surface tends to open it up, and more of the gum and paint film washes away after it is placed back into the water. If you overdo it, you can lose too much gum, and subsequently, more detail. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I hang the print to dry and look carefully at what is going on at this point. There is always a thin film or haze of paint left in my highlights while some of the darker mid tone areas have gotten lighter and grainier. These darker mid tones were the thinnest areas in the gum, and they have been etched to where the paper is now clear enough of the gum resist to allow paint to get into it for the next pass. I don't try to clear the highlights of the hazy paint film yet because it is only temporary, and the gum is too fragile anyway. Disturbing it too much at this point usually spells disaster for me. Those hazy, lighter areas are where I want some resist left on the paper.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Applying a second pass of paint</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After the first etch has opened up the darker end of the mid tone areas in the paper and the print has dried, it is ready for the second pass of paint. If I'm creating a black and white print, I'll simply mix a little titanium white (less chalky and slower drying than zinc) into the same black paint I used for my first pass to make a very dark grey. I've never liked the look of an actual middle grey at this point. It appears muddy to me. This second pass of dark grey can also tone down the grainy look that is so prominent in gumoil prints. It fills in some of the gaps, creating a slightly smoother look. It can be applied to isolated areas or over the entire first pass. If my print is already looking fairly finished but I want a color for atmosphere, I will apply it to either the whole print or just isolated areas. Creating a print with a range of colors can be done at this point as well, but things can get smeary and muddy very quickly if care isn't taken to keep colors separated, especially when wiping the excess paint off. It takes practice. I use blending stumps, Q-tips, and bits of cloth to apply paint if I'm coloring finer detail.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After applying the second pass of paint, I usually leave it on the paper for 15 to 20 minutes (less for really intense colors), then wipe off the excess. If I've applied more than one color, I'm careful not to smear them into areas where I don't want them. I work quickly to avoid color staining, but neatly as well. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If I'm cheating a little and want to use a print that would have worked as a one and done single pass print (no wiping at the sink, of course) then I would shorten my etch time by a few seconds because this type of print doesn't typically have a long enough exposure for multiple passes of paint. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJE1-lcEnXJ0I27ca5XqpOKIt-eWk5NkjlOFDt96TeMoOtUcmJ6c7smAVrQ2qRxMK98cVXXya26WOuArxmEYMvEFI_jpdbksQIKAFLUyZUt5aD0JDosUhETpKelX7ykFnKEI5w/s1600/IMG_0896.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJE1-lcEnXJ0I27ca5XqpOKIt-eWk5NkjlOFDt96TeMoOtUcmJ6c7smAVrQ2qRxMK98cVXXya26WOuArxmEYMvEFI_jpdbksQIKAFLUyZUt5aD0JDosUhETpKelX7ykFnKEI5w/s400/IMG_0896.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A one and done type of print that I etched a little too briefly (6 one-mississippis) before adding a second pass of paint. I kind of like the washed out look, though the bricks on the building went a bit pink.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl7s5kp33dW5BDj6XeY11oxQu_cgQgvq3NcCHDfjJyEcsLoPjWvBQ_Z84mdRjXPE15fh0nEK3g3fvrV5at1LtYjB2r5slzXD32pf_F4GPkvCuOq1sgLbACeSqb1bv4R0MpZmol/s1600/IMG_0899.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl7s5kp33dW5BDj6XeY11oxQu_cgQgvq3NcCHDfjJyEcsLoPjWvBQ_Z84mdRjXPE15fh0nEK3g3fvrV5at1LtYjB2r5slzXD32pf_F4GPkvCuOq1sgLbACeSqb1bv4R0MpZmol/s400/IMG_0899.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another one and done type that got the proper etching time, allowing paint to get into the paper, but the highlights are a little muddy and show a lot of grain. A longer exposure time for my gum layer would have likely yielded a cleaner look.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If your print looked fine after your first etch (if slightly reduced because some loose paint washed away) but gets blocked up with paint in the second pass, then you have etched too long for the type of print you have created to this point. If you didn't etch your first pass long enough, there will be little change in what you see after your second pass of paint than you saw after the first. If this happens, you can always try another etch, but keep it much, much shorter than the first if you still want to try another pass of paint. Half as much time, if not less. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After wiping excess paint off my dry print, I place it into a tray of warm water to loosen the paint and gum. I leave it face down, making sure there are no bubbles trapped underneath for 3-5 minutes. After soaking, I flip the print over and rinse it gently with my hose end sprayer with warm water, checking to see if any bits of paint are coming off. If the paint is coming off without an etch and I don't plan on trying a third pass of paint, I will use cotton balls and Q-tips to carefully wipe paint from the highlights. If the paint is not coming off with a gentle spray, and I'm still not looking to do a third pass of paint, then I will place my print into a 1:8 etching bath (again, 1 part bleach to 8 parts tap water) for several seconds. This second etch is usually shorter than the first, and 8-10 seconds is what frequently works. After the second etch, I place the print into a tray of fresh, cool water, then into the final wash of cool water. While it is in the final wash, I'll start to clear the highlights with Q-tips and cotton balls, being careful not to remove too much paint as I go. If I'm feeling very brave (or very stupid) and decide I'm going to attempt a third pass of paint, I will do a brief etch (8-10 seconds) but I won't wipe or touch or at all. I just move on as I would when going from my first etch to my second pass. I treat that gum with kid gloves, and reduce my etching time for each subsequent etch. Whether I have etched the print at this stage or not, it washes for 30 minutes before being hung to dry. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFW17PCB19aQGSbtvDSgJkPNIqlig0nQ2YBDUdDlfWD_XLSEHfsFEWxWZBdJkRgHnKbqNRNzfdgub5hPCQU00qXGHF5AC9gRtS5T7f_ceBJLx4hisHUrr4nD1CGWvwGLRbKETw/s1600/IMG_0006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFW17PCB19aQGSbtvDSgJkPNIqlig0nQ2YBDUdDlfWD_XLSEHfsFEWxWZBdJkRgHnKbqNRNzfdgub5hPCQU00qXGHF5AC9gRtS5T7f_ceBJLx4hisHUrr4nD1CGWvwGLRbKETw/s640/IMG_0006.jpg" width="434" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Multiple pass print, 1:3 sensitizer ratio, lamp black paint, etched for 16 seconds, cadmium orange, etched for 16 seconds and light areas wiped clean. (printed area is approx. 7.5"x11.5"--small print)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBMaSWIWY7MYWV1GhQoBZGETEE0-m0aVHrYT0EUnli29RlumWc7pbeShPixb1GuL3ZKAvLzEgui2-KcIJVxg-hUyc8LX3yW_fPBVOgk05CuoiqCsbN22JNg3DoMK35rzpwaDMx/s1600/IMG_0017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBMaSWIWY7MYWV1GhQoBZGETEE0-m0aVHrYT0EUnli29RlumWc7pbeShPixb1GuL3ZKAvLzEgui2-KcIJVxg-hUyc8LX3yW_fPBVOgk05CuoiqCsbN22JNg3DoMK35rzpwaDMx/s400/IMG_0017.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same as above, but I believe the color is prussian blue</td></tr>
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Getting a starker look</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This approach is the most painterly one and shows the artist's hand more than the others. You are only limited (well, mostly) by your imagination here. You can gently brush your print after the first etch if you want to get rid of detail. The tools you use are also up to you--stiff, soft, textured, smooth, etc. The etching time depends on the look you want, but starting at less than the standard 12-15 seconds is best. You can always pop your print back into the bleach for a second or two if you're not seeing enough paint come off with brushing. Clearing in cool running water afterward for 30 minutes is the same as the other methods. You can either leave the print as it is after gently brushing, clearing, and allowing it to dry, or add more paint. If there is no gum resist left on the paper (this can be difficult, even impossible to see), use a light color or apply deeper colors selectively. Applying deeper color all over a print that has no gum resist left on it will simply block up it up with paint. Sometimes you can get away with a light scrubbing to clear away areas after paint has been applied, but this really depends on how tough your paper is and whether or not there is still a hint of gum left on it. Stonehenge Rising seems to hold up better than the Arches Platine to this scrubbing, but the Arches does fairly well too. Watercolor washes work well too. If you still aren't getting the stark look you want, consider making a positive transparency with more contrast or using a 1:3 sensitizer ratio with a slightly longer exposure time. A 1:3 sensitizer is softer and less light-sensitive than a 1:2.5 but tends to brush off easier. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6eH3UNENQr_bPDVxCKXJIQDVMjxfz9w72eWgEO7n8TJ1Z-32TmoG5uGRQ4alTeqMmBtN5fCZGJaebzaAmF2j3qfjPqUOZ0voPpIfOtbAaDlOyS-MiXitH-8hCfMalKd4Cz__I/s1600/IMG_9944.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6eH3UNENQr_bPDVxCKXJIQDVMjxfz9w72eWgEO7n8TJ1Z-32TmoG5uGRQ4alTeqMmBtN5fCZGJaebzaAmF2j3qfjPqUOZ0voPpIfOtbAaDlOyS-MiXitH-8hCfMalKd4Cz__I/s640/IMG_9944.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Multiple pass print on Stonehenge Rising, 1:3 sensitizer ratio, bleach etched after first pass of paint, then wiped and scrubbed to clear some areas and leave others dark. (approx. printed area is 16"x20")</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Something completely different</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Gumoil over cyanotype works quite nicely...</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJOC8AjyJya_nclNMR-h60cx7IGho6LJwA_InkgYsGz8wAEeNsj5Uv60O2mvOfQQ3hITxSqL8ww4Od7PqqbGJP1dOo5-JN3bfxT_lNZ-fo6RrCn8m2bmlXtxa_QyAG6or3HWO2/s1600/fatchanceantiques_gumoilcyanotype.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="397" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJOC8AjyJya_nclNMR-h60cx7IGho6LJwA_InkgYsGz8wAEeNsj5Uv60O2mvOfQQ3hITxSqL8ww4Od7PqqbGJP1dOo5-JN3bfxT_lNZ-fo6RrCn8m2bmlXtxa_QyAG6or3HWO2/s400/fatchanceantiques_gumoilcyanotype.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSBg-lLq2fRfWj1X6aBSW4njU7lEkQwvQqI9i_ASER_C5F-QC3noStWJEExAqsgPgeenzwnvgkRZVmhMT3aulKIWK0L60lOgtS37vxbfhB_UtneavhRIlFRu6eZyLZ8dFtyqm2/s1600/IMG_0891.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSBg-lLq2fRfWj1X6aBSW4njU7lEkQwvQqI9i_ASER_C5F-QC3noStWJEExAqsgPgeenzwnvgkRZVmhMT3aulKIWK0L60lOgtS37vxbfhB_UtneavhRIlFRu6eZyLZ8dFtyqm2/s640/IMG_0891.jpg" width="483" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">That's all folks</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For now, anyway. I hope you have found something useful in this rather lengthy blog post. I've tried to break things down with little headers to act as shortcuts for people who are troubleshooting or simply looking for a particular step in the process.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Lastly, here is a short list of artists working in gumoil for reference and inspiration: Cotton Miller and Michele Rogers Pritzl here in the US. Anna Ostanina in Russia. Karena Goldfinch in Australia.</span></div>
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Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com38tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-21726284668529872202013-09-20T14:57:00.000-04:002013-09-20T15:04:55.030-04:00Reading by the Light of the Harvest MoonOkay, that's a lie, but just a little one.<br />
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I've been a night owl since childhood and have always seen the moon as a comforting companion. It's there when the clouds clear after scary night time storms, letting me breath a sigh of relief. It lights the dark corners of my world that, without it, would be black as pitch, and would certainly otherwise allow the bad things that lurk in the dark do what they want with impunity. It's the talisman we all share. It's our planet's companion, and as the caretakers of this fabulous orb (bad as we are at doing our job), it's ours as well.<br />
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When looking online for the date for this year's harvest moon, I read through a site's post about it too quickly, moving on after reading "Sept 19th...". Sept 19th started just after midnight of Wed the 18th, and it was at this time that the moon was at its brightest, becoming its fullest around 7am. Missed it...again. When I looked out a window sometime after 2:30 this morning, I saw a beautiful moonlight on the back patio that was pretty close to what you get with a harvest moon, so I ran to get my camera. Got it set up but noticed that the moon was disappearing quickly behind some trees. In my haste to get at least one shot in, I managed to crop the corner of a window in the top of the frame (yes, that bugs me), made a failed attempt at hiding my husband's IR camera lights with a wet plate apron (his current tech obsession is home security), and forgot to take my glasses off my head and put them on my face, suggesting I could actually read in the moonlight.<br />
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Close, but I still missed it. There's always next year.<br />
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Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-26314758886585230342012-06-12T14:53:00.000-04:002012-06-12T15:55:22.686-04:00Building the Ship as We Sail It<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Thought it was about time I started posting some of the images I've been making of the old house my husband and I purchased a few years ago and have been renovating. There will be an official statement and additional blah blah to go along with the images soon. Just need to find a moment or two to put my thoughts together.</div>
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<br />Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-4406851665510047362012-04-11T16:32:00.003-04:002012-04-11T16:47:21.364-04:00Many thanks to Fotomuseo!Last night I got some great news--my project is on the website for Fotomuseo! Gilma Suarez, who is director of Fotomuseo, was one of my reviewers at Fotofest this year. She was very helpful with her advice and even offered to present my images on the organizations website. Alicia was also helpful in getting me to put the proper items together for the presentation. The link to their main page is:<div><br /></div><div>http://www.fotomuseo.org/fotomuseo/</div><div><br /></div><div>As of this posting, the link to my images was on this page. The language is spanish, but the images are there, and the current statement for the project is on this blog in the post below this one. </div><div><br /></div><div>Fotomuseo is a very interesting organization that brings photography to the people by presenting it in open galleries on the street. There have been a number of notable photographers who have worked with them, and I'm feeling very privileged to have my work on their site! If you have a moment, please take a look at some of their images of the outdoor galleries and other work. If I ever have the chance to get to Columbia, I'm definitely checking out the art scene there!</div>Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-10901900591408508952012-04-11T14:21:00.007-04:002012-04-11T15:17:56.465-04:00New Project (tentatively titled): American Dreaming<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: -webkit-xxx-large; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi198Fv9wi38a3lE0nxjEbzuSdUvGfKC6MewaXGsfIxLohiQjdUvrpCYJ1ntaCZk-Y4onCyuLBfZH8o19mWUKu0o9AZTPEkCdcyJts_YAJaDgTzLYTaIr_5qH5wJhbTawGiaYfO/s1600/lawn_jocks.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi198Fv9wi38a3lE0nxjEbzuSdUvGfKC6MewaXGsfIxLohiQjdUvrpCYJ1ntaCZk-Y4onCyuLBfZH8o19mWUKu0o9AZTPEkCdcyJts_YAJaDgTzLYTaIr_5qH5wJhbTawGiaYfO/s320/lawn_jocks.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5730222683234310658" style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 282px; " /></a></span><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;">Actually, I guess this is a new evolution of a project that I was working on a couple of years ago. It needed to evolve, and still needs to do a bit more before it is working the way I truly want it to. This is a process of discovery, as most of my work is, and I'm loving it.</span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;">Speaking of loving it, after graduating college, I took a year and a half off of any serious photo work and completely avoided the business side of it, like making blog updates, creating a website, any in-depth series work, etc, so I could get back to what I loved to do. Art school is a great way to find new and different things to experience and experiment with. You discover things about yourself as an artist that you had never known before, but you can lose a bit of yourself in the melee as well. For me, it was important to take all that I had learned, mix it with what I already possessed, let it quietly simmer for a while, then get back to work when the stew was fully cooked. More simply put, I needed to find my center again. There had been a constant nagging feeling telling me I had to keep up the momentum, had to keep pushing to try to create great things, and after that was gone, it was time to get back to some serious photography work.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;">Here is the (also tentative) statement for this project:</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;"><br /></span></div><div><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;">I have always been attracted to older homes. There is something in the decor and features of them that speaks to my desire to create a happy and healthy past to replace moments in my life that have been neither happy nor healthy. From an early age I started to develop notions of what a good home should be where the family living inside was content. These notions probably came from old television shows, films, and advertisements that were promoting or selling the American Dream. Although ultimately fantasies, they were views into a happy and stable life that I longed for.</span></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; min-height: 14.0px"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><br /></span></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;">Though these reasons may be personal ones for me, I am not alone in my desire to be in touch with these bits of home life and femininity from past eras. There is a trend here in the US toward buying older homes and keeping some of the features, such as old furniture and vintage decor, in the homes when renovating. This trend has even made its way into women's fashion with vintage-style clothing and fabrics. I cannot help but wonder why we, as women, are attracted to these eras that were not particularly friendly to us. In the past, we were expected to stay at home, clean the house, take care of the kids, and place our husbands' needs above our own--the antithesis of the strong, assertive, modern woman. Did we walk away from something valuable to us while attaining some equality with our male counterparts, or are we simply becoming more comfortable in our own skins and are attempting reconcile who we are now with who we were in the past?</span></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; min-height: 14.0px"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><br /></span></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;">Since I cannot live in a house where every room is a staged view into a past era that I would like to experience and even play in, I have created small, dollhouse rooms that I can interact with in some imaginary or dreamlike manner. These vignettes are created solely for the purpose of being photographed so that I can preserve the moment.</span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><br /></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia, serif;font-size:16px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguldVOsO-aV_iUXNRXc83jrcKA-o9hdw4XkntHEwO3rDXAd8VD3HFRUNieAyeLFXk3r99gn8lAvPL4brIinO6fOz7zauOmyGYziyCgBfBGyXNR_siE5b4CV7gHgmQrHmMgaOQc/s1600/bird_of_paradise.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguldVOsO-aV_iUXNRXc83jrcKA-o9hdw4XkntHEwO3rDXAd8VD3HFRUNieAyeLFXk3r99gn8lAvPL4brIinO6fOz7zauOmyGYziyCgBfBGyXNR_siE5b4CV7gHgmQrHmMgaOQc/s320/bird_of_paradise.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5730221643805540002" style="cursor: pointer; 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width: 320px; height: 210px; " /></a></span></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><br /></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia, serif;font-size:16px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOtJO1xqY5cQGrfVI9sQJ-1rkWIpBLIPD3Qk8ucAtyB483VlUvnATN5YvRuwUdcDYBsJgkgDAEZ2SRSSFi15-oxQXQUFiLoBRrCHpT4eRYkc6HKTML42Erof3yd0Nk1w6gXlBr/s1600/mod_plastic.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOtJO1xqY5cQGrfVI9sQJ-1rkWIpBLIPD3Qk8ucAtyB483VlUvnATN5YvRuwUdcDYBsJgkgDAEZ2SRSSFi15-oxQXQUFiLoBRrCHpT4eRYkc6HKTML42Erof3yd0Nk1w6gXlBr/s320/mod_plastic.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5730222690337762770" style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 220px; " /></a></span></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><br /></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQQt1iZ1pKNPsMr4YUhsf1Q3jj83ctfUth5SZrwOyXZ60Bh0msndIYALuDd9jPPETvNdXWt8WAwVFuTz8Z5m31sP376y5bT228tc1Mpbl4FML0hN5ZjosiYfV-5mrhhAlvZ5qC/s1600/place_to_pass_time.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQQt1iZ1pKNPsMr4YUhsf1Q3jj83ctfUth5SZrwOyXZ60Bh0msndIYALuDd9jPPETvNdXWt8WAwVFuTz8Z5m31sP376y5bT228tc1Mpbl4FML0hN5ZjosiYfV-5mrhhAlvZ5qC/s320/place_to_pass_time.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5730223535595486066" style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 289px; " /></a></span></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><br /></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia, serif;font-size:16px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhFRnmG0Y-kmCgibrzDaxoDx9t7z5Ac8em41CDAveCVKSt8WFyNqvFMKWh_-MxWxw7_AM4mNDs6ksem6mknEwif39FEuEjObU9WQQqInsv_tSW7W5BmwY4s6AUE4SYJGiB3LBj/s1600/i_go_walkin.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhFRnmG0Y-kmCgibrzDaxoDx9t7z5Ac8em41CDAveCVKSt8WFyNqvFMKWh_-MxWxw7_AM4mNDs6ksem6mknEwif39FEuEjObU9WQQqInsv_tSW7W5BmwY4s6AUE4SYJGiB3LBj/s320/i_go_walkin.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5730222671644399250" style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 238px; " /></a></span></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><br /></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCjuqzS46Ujiyt8fQ7_J7e1cL3Q6n3ldgrWUhgKpplHmg-k4dIa_iKHDFjJ3zbq1p9bEINMOMPHYuY61Ho9UvlEY52n-XXVd1GM5bWHAVRp79mb7NQm-SPpiU-pUgzH_ymfDHC/s1600/thoroughly_modern_alice.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCjuqzS46Ujiyt8fQ7_J7e1cL3Q6n3ldgrWUhgKpplHmg-k4dIa_iKHDFjJ3zbq1p9bEINMOMPHYuY61Ho9UvlEY52n-XXVd1GM5bWHAVRp79mb7NQm-SPpiU-pUgzH_ymfDHC/s320/thoroughly_modern_alice.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5730223543867891218" style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 286px; " /></a></span></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><br /></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia, serif;font-size:16px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXO1KdNk75GTuJ5SYRJkmzvmJI4uR9POp8bHs7mp39R0vmvIzlvtx8q5HmaRL0TrdmXI0YobNZ4C3r8vNmHgWTOQSlpYk5ayDAQlmsz2eFqsaduPLvvAOxdU84WIqqQ2Dk4k3d/s1600/heirloom_tomato.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXO1KdNk75GTuJ5SYRJkmzvmJI4uR9POp8bHs7mp39R0vmvIzlvtx8q5HmaRL0TrdmXI0YobNZ4C3r8vNmHgWTOQSlpYk5ayDAQlmsz2eFqsaduPLvvAOxdU84WIqqQ2Dk4k3d/s320/heirloom_tomato.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5730221666215741426" style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 210px; " /></a></span></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><br /></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia, serif;font-size:16px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWzxRTX8zLksQtwi47kv0wtLOoM4UosFMCkjxg1XSD_WJDLzpjN_pAJ1WdqEbxu8y1TuM79M8YAjpJmSgbwENAcpSxtr1dCcpJCnczE8PRvlMk40Rjd5b7KpL7ea3r8X7h5esP/s1600/hoosier_apple_pie_print.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWzxRTX8zLksQtwi47kv0wtLOoM4UosFMCkjxg1XSD_WJDLzpjN_pAJ1WdqEbxu8y1TuM79M8YAjpJmSgbwENAcpSxtr1dCcpJCnczE8PRvlMk40Rjd5b7KpL7ea3r8X7h5esP/s320/hoosier_apple_pie_print.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5730221669532887314" style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 218px; " /></a></span></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><br /></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia, serif;font-size:16px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlJVioSSPcscu1hc6nVDq7E9ou-CJ4N-q_zty50yHDFZ-DLenwJheqG9q_GFtqFO5yugawgHY5UFmRNraq0fzTGTnT2tpCMXUe7C4VTwhXdeh4E75Voo1INIjVXv5wkaL1cLEA/s1600/dont_answer_it.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlJVioSSPcscu1hc6nVDq7E9ou-CJ4N-q_zty50yHDFZ-DLenwJheqG9q_GFtqFO5yugawgHY5UFmRNraq0fzTGTnT2tpCMXUe7C4VTwhXdeh4E75Voo1INIjVXv5wkaL1cLEA/s320/dont_answer_it.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5730221662556238066" style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 275px; " /></a></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><br /></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisl9tWlfyCLnilSWpj4vycCxlAyyr3iiYB8Xf6sqGl2f-b1Km2yUsGLrq3CI_K84oEgJHLGreuriY7O6ujQQyWk8JLsIK9WDjAED700cUU1NHuhjbuJorISoH_ff-BVr5pkGRN/s1600/town_hall_buzz.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisl9tWlfyCLnilSWpj4vycCxlAyyr3iiYB8Xf6sqGl2f-b1Km2yUsGLrq3CI_K84oEgJHLGreuriY7O6ujQQyWk8JLsIK9WDjAED700cUU1NHuhjbuJorISoH_ff-BVr5pkGRN/s320/town_hall_buzz.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5730223543918223218" style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 249px; " /></a></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><br /></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Georgia, serif;font-size:7;"><br /></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><br /></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><br /></span></p><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><br /></span></p></div>Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-54573767328000570602010-09-29T12:56:00.000-04:002010-09-29T13:29:18.331-04:00The Place I KeepGoing through the archives and putting together the website--finally. I'm uploading a few images here first to get a feel for what I want on the site. This group of images represents a series I've been shooting since 2007. It's the zen project I turn to when the highly controlled work becomes too much. Funny that it's supposed to be a zen project because it's actually been fraught with all types of hazards. Many of the images have been posted here before, but this is the first time they're being posted together as a full group. The first ones up are here for the first time, and there are new ones on the way. An explanation and rough draft for an artist statement follow the images.<br /><br />Summer-Fall 2007<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGgHERiW1X1WA7qY2Wf3Sy7G2Eay6W7-g4ktJE9iCZdVruNAO7RWGUHaMFl4OKM1Uy8YZahMlWAXyaGpnS92q8iUQsVPCgbIts5quOMeGzdhDKdK25JBOrSMpTDeOWSWOA0hqS/s1600/7-2-18fixed_2.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 251px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGgHERiW1X1WA7qY2Wf3Sy7G2Eay6W7-g4ktJE9iCZdVruNAO7RWGUHaMFl4OKM1Uy8YZahMlWAXyaGpnS92q8iUQsVPCgbIts5quOMeGzdhDKdK25JBOrSMpTDeOWSWOA0hqS/s320/7-2-18fixed_2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522384009869063986" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWY2FJaxfsag-zNnb0nt9MlpUpcnuP3M2RXmkuJPl1t05QXeveFl3XqnPIDwF5XcRws892pC5vZtdx9XVzYaT6MAkoscBBd9v2ZZ21sEfly__6UDcpL1UZ6JiywRNHHaOxFU6Y/s1600/7-2-15fixed_2.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 251px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWY2FJaxfsag-zNnb0nt9MlpUpcnuP3M2RXmkuJPl1t05QXeveFl3XqnPIDwF5XcRws892pC5vZtdx9XVzYaT6MAkoscBBd9v2ZZ21sEfly__6UDcpL1UZ6JiywRNHHaOxFU6Y/s320/7-2-15fixed_2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522383999569161090" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPv16PgJHEgSN3bBmDaJfjYjcFklwTukvDxl-vr3LNGfI99554ffZYGIxv8TisQDZVrYX5LrHhnVS-HOTjpiPG9qr8QvRAey4Qw8vJGgIiWWEOEYcRbwHEpnQACTDJquRtVj76/s1600/7-2-12fixed_2.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 251px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPv16PgJHEgSN3bBmDaJfjYjcFklwTukvDxl-vr3LNGfI99554ffZYGIxv8TisQDZVrYX5LrHhnVS-HOTjpiPG9qr8QvRAey4Qw8vJGgIiWWEOEYcRbwHEpnQACTDJquRtVj76/s320/7-2-12fixed_2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522383994995036834" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQZfyOYOTjln8vU3LxPNMDlnZAx-L_y7HYY4dOt_2g0Zun8-iD0fCq_Cqo5eYiPpHmC-U98rHi5XQz5fijmp21_teTR8pQ46ouBQfgUAaTwjgMujsg8XlT1Lqn-BFfSng3W9aO/s1600/7-2-11fixed.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 251px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQZfyOYOTjln8vU3LxPNMDlnZAx-L_y7HYY4dOt_2g0Zun8-iD0fCq_Cqo5eYiPpHmC-U98rHi5XQz5fijmp21_teTR8pQ46ouBQfgUAaTwjgMujsg8XlT1Lqn-BFfSng3W9aO/s320/7-2-11fixed.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522383986871273842" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz-IoA9_wZLU-EuPlxU0KxbGqiHV2xrnbx9fV7qM4nJrZZJ2ty09WVn3-ltHfWpmOer1OryfspecalpS6i5rBWvHPAMji6c8lnPMzQf9TKX35yHlTu4UNT6Gd38cFF1vX7ukgz/s1600/7-2-9fixed.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 252px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz-IoA9_wZLU-EuPlxU0KxbGqiHV2xrnbx9fV7qM4nJrZZJ2ty09WVn3-ltHfWpmOer1OryfspecalpS6i5rBWvHPAMji6c8lnPMzQf9TKX35yHlTu4UNT6Gd38cFF1vX7ukgz/s320/7-2-9fixed.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522383985595607074" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht0-XenByrYzozCg5HIUQR5NnsoMh56eIkV1JHzy7o6SmmlQu9GNmXxFQLtf6C4yeFJ6KCF_BVZpgCO2mT7nbNsjv2v7aZyxNAm9_TCeUz7PEsFmUQpUB7GHQ2LjKQQPnWOKGx/s1600/7-2-8fixed_2.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; 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width: 251px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnREBp7XFxRABJFPrxauTifI7yzA-U-DhKLK7A7aJWdlgwDmBNLTuKzecV9eKfq72d6EvTWGyP4T10NGIYzmSZBrNL3MhfhiFExF54xC8-c3hBbX4VuVinOwX1kRBVoZzrs_DA/s320/7-2-5fixed_2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522383643941462098" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTpLmgkKQ3UNw9mFH-2fSwmvjENlKmjtl71unAovoDGyDjkPIroEL7VZr-y-rW9VfNUfzNd9A-LVFSjl4mDZyTBgneJ2eZhGDOVJm3vEMVjt4EKmyEQhXKnBjUhfG7cfhMOLLo/s1600/lums_11_adjusted.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 317px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTpLmgkKQ3UNw9mFH-2fSwmvjENlKmjtl71unAovoDGyDjkPIroEL7VZr-y-rW9VfNUfzNd9A-LVFSjl4mDZyTBgneJ2eZhGDOVJm3vEMVjt4EKmyEQhXKnBjUhfG7cfhMOLLo/s320/lums_11_adjusted.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522383641020381490" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW7AWAdhPW5O7CdlpyEY6vca8WOOmfSejE9zUEXxxkruNmEBeWyskpizGrTIOx8DhU1UBrUaB99WaMrRAlDklP2IFBSoeHX8nS4Pm6BKTKCmhkspIiCPpiKb-lNC1M6xuNOYVu/s1600/lums_7_adjusted.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW7AWAdhPW5O7CdlpyEY6vca8WOOmfSejE9zUEXxxkruNmEBeWyskpizGrTIOx8DhU1UBrUaB99WaMrRAlDklP2IFBSoeHX8nS4Pm6BKTKCmhkspIiCPpiKb-lNC1M6xuNOYVu/s320/lums_7_adjusted.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522383635287895490" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoJTQAnzdd1o_U57LDRjvg1L4DxwdThfwVjmnsW4Xhc6SZCeXZsWic0veKyk6zPrWwiJ950YAzmsdAtB_CGThM6elbfz1TYkudZfbqW0mXPu-yMItETiMDhr8eopHgPgmxmIqs/s1600/lums_5_adjusted.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoJTQAnzdd1o_U57LDRjvg1L4DxwdThfwVjmnsW4Xhc6SZCeXZsWic0veKyk6zPrWwiJ950YAzmsdAtB_CGThM6elbfz1TYkudZfbqW0mXPu-yMItETiMDhr8eopHgPgmxmIqs/s320/lums_5_adjusted.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522382717280458818" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJHabOlakUZ-0La-Cxe3Ih4vT5vOGRP1ArFkkekrPNjcPcIrbvTuP74Aw2zQenm7wyLciTGc8hnCaWtAU8Y0kFDSpO9wRqrKBIZHOh9KiONiV-JnGCD4QTmXH48OkUDvodbRpP/s1600/lums_4_adjusted.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 317px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJHabOlakUZ-0La-Cxe3Ih4vT5vOGRP1ArFkkekrPNjcPcIrbvTuP74Aw2zQenm7wyLciTGc8hnCaWtAU8Y0kFDSpO9wRqrKBIZHOh9KiONiV-JnGCD4QTmXH48OkUDvodbRpP/s320/lums_4_adjusted.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522382707665489234" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqX2EuJkQJ2lv0ZaCgaxEkcTKqTB9Nr0coAI2_3zbiGwM9ZtE2EYZoMvXleecNQcZ_xzBGIejBmyGT3WzOKNpsjjtpq1Feuku25QEKkmZIpQ9ciGfgovPnD4tg30W2tOerbsx6/s1600/lums_2_adjusted.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 317px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqX2EuJkQJ2lv0ZaCgaxEkcTKqTB9Nr0coAI2_3zbiGwM9ZtE2EYZoMvXleecNQcZ_xzBGIejBmyGT3WzOKNpsjjtpq1Feuku25QEKkmZIpQ9ciGfgovPnD4tg30W2tOerbsx6/s320/lums_2_adjusted.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522382704139887202" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7a2w93zO9tDHtbeIXOcDMUxUBkC4x2qu_0GSL7E4uJdjiBjE9tOJvK7wJYlG9NPK54DqTeSeYaq3pEIiwLq4W_XFNYvZnjtnjphoj5I20q9HdjbWJAdNNbPJ30tQVP23fSIk2/s1600/lums_1_adjusted.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 317px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7a2w93zO9tDHtbeIXOcDMUxUBkC4x2qu_0GSL7E4uJdjiBjE9tOJvK7wJYlG9NPK54DqTeSeYaq3pEIiwLq4W_XFNYvZnjtnjphoj5I20q9HdjbWJAdNNbPJ30tQVP23fSIk2/s320/lums_1_adjusted.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522382704993107202" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Senior Year, 2009-2010<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWLPr7YxSOhXZatALo9kBs0s87o2sNcKU2s6Ts3b_fEmmPewVUGhTuR6_cgRhyphenhyphenujPHRHDMJMf0InKe-IVEVe3yOgM7zMKKBcWQCRwf4TfX9g5lIad20UwvPWOhMtZJCGTi_oS8/s1600/whiteclay12.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWLPr7YxSOhXZatALo9kBs0s87o2sNcKU2s6Ts3b_fEmmPewVUGhTuR6_cgRhyphenhyphenujPHRHDMJMf0InKe-IVEVe3yOgM7zMKKBcWQCRwf4TfX9g5lIad20UwvPWOhMtZJCGTi_oS8/s320/whiteclay12.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522382698936603618" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWxxAQje4HRmBdD65wuPMpGdhixxn0M1L_L8c_RE3Na_YwIxSuCehRBAM6XMAEY2CHniuI50Gama_GFUv8Z4EPoH6SXb7qmQgPDXgs3bGWRpvf6p7fUWIvWmCUP3LnsmUquqNW/s1600/whiteclay11.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 319px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWxxAQje4HRmBdD65wuPMpGdhixxn0M1L_L8c_RE3Na_YwIxSuCehRBAM6XMAEY2CHniuI50Gama_GFUv8Z4EPoH6SXb7qmQgPDXgs3bGWRpvf6p7fUWIvWmCUP3LnsmUquqNW/s320/whiteclay11.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522382312198465122" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGul57BMRbbzHCNo5Rfuq6c87bM_HzyO5iuCO8v461uqm3cK409oPG926E7OJJ2zkI2NZ0npmgNOhs87rwb6IS6r0qqcVBIqhauHVKvgh8baMciZTb3qaaAsTETnpeMev53ARI/s1600/whiteclay10.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGul57BMRbbzHCNo5Rfuq6c87bM_HzyO5iuCO8v461uqm3cK409oPG926E7OJJ2zkI2NZ0npmgNOhs87rwb6IS6r0qqcVBIqhauHVKvgh8baMciZTb3qaaAsTETnpeMev53ARI/s320/whiteclay10.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522382313294133746" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBk1KqiY5rDhqRzLOHWyqzyUK610UTid3HBGIfrq2dOCwKsOc2Die3hMLwWy4RefEISw5RL_01XZ23bgevjCan3CPu3ernDA2PUreDyj6VzJyZun_wBDBI1_cfI3EFJbEKyU20/s1600/whiteclay9.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 318px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBk1KqiY5rDhqRzLOHWyqzyUK610UTid3HBGIfrq2dOCwKsOc2Die3hMLwWy4RefEISw5RL_01XZ23bgevjCan3CPu3ernDA2PUreDyj6VzJyZun_wBDBI1_cfI3EFJbEKyU20/s320/whiteclay9.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522382308542645938" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyHyS4hyphenhyphen0SOw4pIk5aHVuCgjwXJD72lKKW8KjEpcVk23CLniL0QU1B9NUfIB0Cz7Zzkg9Y7rLpUqHTtcpUseKP4SCSLKb2Dr0FkDtIeuOILVGRvbWD9NrydMFIIsdkRnr3VgR7/s1600/whiteclay8.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyHyS4hyphenhyphen0SOw4pIk5aHVuCgjwXJD72lKKW8KjEpcVk23CLniL0QU1B9NUfIB0Cz7Zzkg9Y7rLpUqHTtcpUseKP4SCSLKb2Dr0FkDtIeuOILVGRvbWD9NrydMFIIsdkRnr3VgR7/s320/whiteclay8.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522382304285325378" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6d0fw4v2P-Fd-hnVBrwAHrlFutuONOx3lX_1D1m88fcHGL9DsqGJEKIKXeP5ohkDToZ6FTisTxo-bn36HQ68Q_gIWormtTSUiTVjq1mCUw8ue53u5wIDt6N-izuPv2JG0_-8q/s1600/whiteclay7.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6d0fw4v2P-Fd-hnVBrwAHrlFutuONOx3lX_1D1m88fcHGL9DsqGJEKIKXeP5ohkDToZ6FTisTxo-bn36HQ68Q_gIWormtTSUiTVjq1mCUw8ue53u5wIDt6N-izuPv2JG0_-8q/s320/whiteclay7.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522382300305474050" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />This is a rough (very) draft from Dec '09 for an artist statement for this body of work. It was cobbled together from a couple of random thoughts and comments copy/pasted from emails sent to my sister Erin, also a photographer, with whom I’d been discussing the project in depth off and on for about a year. My original artist statement from 2007 was lost, and I found that in my conversations I’d said a lot about where the imagery was coming from. One good thing about email conversations vs face to face, I suppose. The grammar is poor, but the meaning is there. The last two paragraphs were part of an attempt to pull 5 of my 20 images from my thesis project to create a sub-project. For our senior show, I would only be able to hang 4 images and felt a need to pare things way down. Didn't go over very big, I'm afraid. So, stick to what you know, I guess. The images pulled from that thesis were actually supposed to come out like the original fuzzy, tangled tree images from 2007, but when I switched cameras for the sake of swiftness in the woods (4x5 with hazy brass lens to Lubitel), the effect wasn't the same. I loved the look of the new images though and would have enjoyed pursuing it more, but the images were too much like a group that an instructor of mine had done. That was his baby, and for me to go that route when he was already exploring it wouldn't have been right. I continue to shoot these things when I see them, but it's not a project I actively work on.<br /><br />Dec 9, 2009:<br />I grew up in the vast concrete wilderness that is the O.C. in CA. My<br />family went camping a lot, but we usually went to the deserts for that.<br />Occasionally, though, we would go to the mountains and the woods. It<br />was like another planet for me. All of the trees and small waterways<br />were completely foreign to me, and each moment spent in those<br />places was a true exploration. These images are as close as I can get<br />to that same sort of discovery.<br /><br />Memory is a fluid and creative thing. It alters reality, as I’m sure it has<br />altered my impressions of the places I saw in my childhood. Those<br />places seem almost too enchanted now to have ever been real. Maybe<br />that’s how they really are for a little kid—I don’t know. There seemed<br />to be a purpose to their existence because they were so rare.<br />Southern California is very dry, even in the mountains, so these green<br />and wooded areas with running streams are isolated and not easy to<br />find. The places I shoot in out here are totally surrounded by suburban<br />developments. They seem every bit as isolated, rare and enchanted as<br />the places I remember from camping in California.<br /><br />What I want to convey is a sense of an uncommon and natural place<br />that is off the beaten path and hard to find. Something that is rare,<br />mysterious, and has a purpose and life all its own.<br /><br />The Lubitel (original Lomo camera) has a cheap lens on it that isn’t<br />corrected for spherical or chromatic aberrations, and I knew that this<br />would create a swirling in the background blur and some strong<br />vignetting. I chose this camera because I felt the swirling would call<br />attention to the tangles of the plants and trees and to the dizzying<br />effects of the high canopy.<br /><br />I look for anything that seems a little extraordinary and what a<br />person won’t necessarily see if they stick to the trail. I get into some<br />pretty hard to reach places and fully expect to get a bad case of poison<br />ivy one of these days. The trees and other plants have a symbiotic<br />relationship that is sometimes beneficial to each and sometimes<br />deadly to one. They support each other and weigh each other down at<br />the same time. Life in the woods is very much like life elsewhere<br />except that it moves very slowly. I look for relationships between the<br />various elements in the scenes.<br /><br />I want to draw the eye to those specific relationships and the<br />beautiful contours and shapes that have been created by them over<br />time. Most of these images have been shot at the edges of the woods<br />where man has cultivated the land adjacent to it with farms or<br />suburban developments. The plants create a barrier here that is sort of<br />like a scar. It’s thick, complex, and tough to get through.Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-34010264943315393452010-09-03T21:39:00.000-04:002010-09-03T21:43:01.964-04:00Paintings from my DCAD days.Just a couple of paintings that date back to '05 or '06. They were rushed (as usual) and so, aren't finished. They were fun to paint though, and it made me smile when I came across them.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7QpVYd_t1M8BvH8c_BHgqD_ZxUpwF5Z3DBdHpPhpm1n1bPgchCq8AgGttZa_0Wfc4hAGxS25EkK3UYgTjyub0F88PZ6AEot1g4EzzaL0OklnC43Zv0JazccLD2t6cwVg3CzSA/s1600/7314_fixed.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 172px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7QpVYd_t1M8BvH8c_BHgqD_ZxUpwF5Z3DBdHpPhpm1n1bPgchCq8AgGttZa_0Wfc4hAGxS25EkK3UYgTjyub0F88PZ6AEot1g4EzzaL0OklnC43Zv0JazccLD2t6cwVg3CzSA/s320/7314_fixed.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5512867376275818338" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGtUMEE_zgTJYzK8VNjqRsHl6N4K3s__SwwfXzaogqZS51TcaR-qbf1pfSOjpROf14pBz_CcxsPysy6e_vL1rfMuxBzgtCtVoe9juJGZz_ba5QlH0YTY-eSNymDWjBeJDnVRue/s1600/7316_fixed.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 286px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGtUMEE_zgTJYzK8VNjqRsHl6N4K3s__SwwfXzaogqZS51TcaR-qbf1pfSOjpROf14pBz_CcxsPysy6e_vL1rfMuxBzgtCtVoe9juJGZz_ba5QlH0YTY-eSNymDWjBeJDnVRue/s320/7316_fixed.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5512867359003892658" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC7KUb1UWFHF-yN1TCO_fxHUqeJTjHJ3IilPj5JdP6yVvnnXGw1VpSje6Jq71t_JZ6J_upEQppFMPgbXlomeh_82QGsLp7XApHUd-VmHiKTRl9zNEgUSmWdrN6FsLPT-GAZPz4/s1600/7317_fixed.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 215px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC7KUb1UWFHF-yN1TCO_fxHUqeJTjHJ3IilPj5JdP6yVvnnXGw1VpSje6Jq71t_JZ6J_upEQppFMPgbXlomeh_82QGsLp7XApHUd-VmHiKTRl9zNEgUSmWdrN6FsLPT-GAZPz4/s320/7317_fixed.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5512867350174324002" border="0" /></a>Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-80600904258010954442010-07-13T20:49:00.001-04:002010-07-13T20:56:00.220-04:00Warts and all...Well, the folks at the Impossible Project stated that the white speck problem had been addressed, but I'm afraid those specks are still present and in great numbers. Bummer. I had high hopes for this stuff, but perhaps they'll pull it together sometime soon.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi67aZr070tMkTrMFT01OI4GGl0ukToM7ZbZR3UFtkimbyBn5FvJpb8cym9cfKIcmw_9jDfbJ-2AeTJSHHKErYpjg8JwsJnWgBdrbV7YF8S3fyWdJPbnkVBvMGpxAleObqpESj-/s1600/powderroom_towelring_july_2010.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 264px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi67aZr070tMkTrMFT01OI4GGl0ukToM7ZbZR3UFtkimbyBn5FvJpb8cym9cfKIcmw_9jDfbJ-2AeTJSHHKErYpjg8JwsJnWgBdrbV7YF8S3fyWdJPbnkVBvMGpxAleObqpESj-/s320/powderroom_towelring_july_2010.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5493558245842143138" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvJcESQMGlYuDBku-hws-RuFii4bbdaF2GY1u3chOfHNlEqWBYgxNK9SXu_SoWySlkH6EY9dmerbSHviACCFP71Q6EgTgzrHxsHXsoFSj3-yMmCI67dl1dDL6xSCD-f-ckOCXS/s1600/basementdoor_gloves_july_2010.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 264px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvJcESQMGlYuDBku-hws-RuFii4bbdaF2GY1u3chOfHNlEqWBYgxNK9SXu_SoWySlkH6EY9dmerbSHviACCFP71Q6EgTgzrHxsHXsoFSj3-yMmCI67dl1dDL6xSCD-f-ckOCXS/s320/basementdoor_gloves_july_2010.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5493558236381509618" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwYp05avWnq9TWoLvWj6S3CuFYUtxoh7_67Yktz7ALRiprhyphenhyphenAdPRPddId_gUc7sloF_o-GyObjc3bhGpKTEvp1X13rvzuOditUEd3ERfP9KELkNb6vaUF1fIz0WcidFWXaSQEs/s1600/livingroomwindow_junebug_july_2010.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 265px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwYp05avWnq9TWoLvWj6S3CuFYUtxoh7_67Yktz7ALRiprhyphenhyphenAdPRPddId_gUc7sloF_o-GyObjc3bhGpKTEvp1X13rvzuOditUEd3ERfP9KELkNb6vaUF1fIz0WcidFWXaSQEs/s320/livingroomwindow_junebug_july_2010.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5493557993054076754" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqmAU9ypTjbUo5Cc6x511VHnbfrBMY8scgrm-7BwkH6MVUHwYDupQ3uNUn783Ueo-1ECO9Hxz2_EWp_AVkfgUsm5XTgLbFfJjjVHI6FLukVsoVpvbHUU3opPICqF9L8_MHIVZG/s1600/backyard_clothesline_july_2010.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 264px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqmAU9ypTjbUo5Cc6x511VHnbfrBMY8scgrm-7BwkH6MVUHwYDupQ3uNUn783Ueo-1ECO9Hxz2_EWp_AVkfgUsm5XTgLbFfJjjVHI6FLukVsoVpvbHUU3opPICqF9L8_MHIVZG/s320/backyard_clothesline_july_2010.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5493557987826232338" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghS6gNEpR6iU89K643v0HxApBGSgGe0U_aw_N1HJ4ENPRn4-0VIiunuhJD0gOy2Erm04PTOgqc3nJi7TfoxYbyKjdgVhTRtc0UvsEvigZdsuzLvsGwO8t5rCY8nMGLsmSWQKte/s1600/attic_sink_july_2010.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 264px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghS6gNEpR6iU89K643v0HxApBGSgGe0U_aw_N1HJ4ENPRn4-0VIiunuhJD0gOy2Erm04PTOgqc3nJi7TfoxYbyKjdgVhTRtc0UvsEvigZdsuzLvsGwO8t5rCY8nMGLsmSWQKte/s320/attic_sink_july_2010.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5493557982404509282" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAAzvUXlP_IUQlWKdV6G6HE4DwapfHINcLnv8Obl58CwfcoayFYTvV3npy5omyxVe2e1eNeGEhoIWnAou5JpSE2QWnQjReDN5m89CYnoA7EMgInOQPkhdNtuYC8Snm3kEFq2st/s1600/attcistairs_scottsshoes_july_2010.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 264px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAAzvUXlP_IUQlWKdV6G6HE4DwapfHINcLnv8Obl58CwfcoayFYTvV3npy5omyxVe2e1eNeGEhoIWnAou5JpSE2QWnQjReDN5m89CYnoA7EMgInOQPkhdNtuYC8Snm3kEFq2st/s320/attcistairs_scottsshoes_july_2010.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5493557976732821938" border="0" /></a>Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-36196481885301073252010-06-04T17:13:00.001-04:002010-06-04T17:41:07.274-04:00Factory of Photography ExhibitionThis year I was asked by the photography faculty at the University of the Arts (now my alma mater) to participate in the 2010 FotoFestiwal International Festival of Photography in Lodz, Poland. Fellow student, Lou Caltabiano, was asked to participate as well with his <span style="font-style: italic;">Shower </span>series. Judging by the images I've seen online, it was a great event, and I really wish I could have been there. I've seen some amazing images of the work that was hung (is still hanging??) there. Phillip Toledano was also present with an exhibit of his series <span style="font-style: italic;">Days With My Father</span>, a wonderful series I've admired since I first heard about it several months ago.<br /><br />I've posted the images of mine that were in the Factory of Photography portion of the festival. They have appeared on this blog at an earlier time, and since I'm still working on the series, there will be more to come. I'll post some links here......<br /><br />Link to my images on the fotofestiwal site:<br />http://fotofestiwal.com/2010/kelly-wrage/<br /><br />(polish version of events)<br />http://www.fotomargines.pl/2010/05/08/subiektywny-przeglad-obowiazkowych-wystaw-na-9-fotofestiwalu-lodzi/<br /><br />(google english translation of the above mentioned events)<br />http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=pl&u=http://www.fotomargines.pl/2010/05/08/subiektywny-przeglad-obowiazkowych-wystaw-na-9-fotofestiwalu-lodzi/&ei=E2kJTKidFsGAlAf93IjcDg&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=62&ved=0CLECEO4BMD0&prev=/search%3Fq%3D%2522kelly%2Bwrage%2522%26num%3D100%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26hs%3DwwJ%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26as_qdr%3Dall<br /><br />I'm not sure if the translation link will work, so I posted the Polish version as well. On this particular page, you will see an image of Toledano giving a talk on his work with that work on the wall next to him. Some of my images are at the bottom of the page. If you haven't seen Toledano's series yet, I highly recommend that you do. It is very moving and beautifully executed.<br /><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-4aDFhtpZR5Q9lalWIgF1ncOIzh30St3TeROHMP8ADmmrKmdqqFNkKSKLjIGQ-UXuigvOpWRaGw7l02piFAtjbpm0R6BZWFgdLCBC35uuvuspUv-ZSYZmBBAL35Y8H_jv9YlN/s1600/apple_boudoir.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 251px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-4aDFhtpZR5Q9lalWIgF1ncOIzh30St3TeROHMP8ADmmrKmdqqFNkKSKLjIGQ-UXuigvOpWRaGw7l02piFAtjbpm0R6BZWFgdLCBC35uuvuspUv-ZSYZmBBAL35Y8H_jv9YlN/s320/apple_boudoir.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479030165405021874" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ozlclezKI85-TQ7XN4SQs1kQ4qEvi9DRgUEC11uXSHVdazxu8usLldisz7RJg5X-JEYpQwXRT5_NYfHrA4as6UHCO-24Wa13mjVmK2CfKEiyA6UWih8xBNrB9w14vff18krP/s1600/onion_chairs.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 250px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ozlclezKI85-TQ7XN4SQs1kQ4qEvi9DRgUEC11uXSHVdazxu8usLldisz7RJg5X-JEYpQwXRT5_NYfHrA4as6UHCO-24Wa13mjVmK2CfKEiyA6UWih8xBNrB9w14vff18krP/s320/onion_chairs.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479030163317542402" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrPx0xMCLdBv1zDEq04Zz5NCtJvgy3T2MpoK21UTAOwmp5U3EhJ7vBWVP4cFUx5xEitKqwlW3QpaIemJBwWz3_4i2LVDI8C_U9G1Q9K32bQSU3-CrQQ9L5DqKAFNye2Wh7G4ji/s1600/plumello.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 248px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrPx0xMCLdBv1zDEq04Zz5NCtJvgy3T2MpoK21UTAOwmp5U3EhJ7vBWVP4cFUx5xEitKqwlW3QpaIemJBwWz3_4i2LVDI8C_U9G1Q9K32bQSU3-CrQQ9L5DqKAFNye2Wh7G4ji/s320/plumello.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479029956476953538" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA9EhDNxdwpYViwZUP6gR1MNyBO5sKyiZJ75kuuQnlSKAOh630dAvQqCt3CWrgGrDLgPjQDnGy2V6ule_yQ8Gr4IW8ZcduAVqoJxE509DZuPTQ-XgX6OplphF3D06L8hbBjyYx/s1600/sweet_pepper.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 211px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA9EhDNxdwpYViwZUP6gR1MNyBO5sKyiZJ75kuuQnlSKAOh630dAvQqCt3CWrgGrDLgPjQDnGy2V6ule_yQ8Gr4IW8ZcduAVqoJxE509DZuPTQ-XgX6OplphF3D06L8hbBjyYx/s320/sweet_pepper.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479029953034779058" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsX3GMLBmmyK_dK-iTxHyg6MezRN1U7xJYd9rJmaCH44ThWSXaIorNucFDXz8xS5lz8EFTTsoMoSLvAlZbYc2f4WmXViLR9KDZ3MigQJ3N7OI-GKR-4TDuPFD1_jLLOZ5UdLVE/s1600/tulip.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 222px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsX3GMLBmmyK_dK-iTxHyg6MezRN1U7xJYd9rJmaCH44ThWSXaIorNucFDXz8xS5lz8EFTTsoMoSLvAlZbYc2f4WmXViLR9KDZ3MigQJ3N7OI-GKR-4TDuPFD1_jLLOZ5UdLVE/s320/tulip.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479029950151332658" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG2xSMKbqNqrQYs_ftlvhwRK8OA_tTKFf4El3EwOnF8OJEZRIoLhPCMrCABYcVfAtBALZmd9Runubt5bdcBt3E8JteekEgV3KHb2lZKWluIUUMTQlTu8DhTh-NcqssC4hPADkq/s1600/yellow_pepper.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 216px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG2xSMKbqNqrQYs_ftlvhwRK8OA_tTKFf4El3EwOnF8OJEZRIoLhPCMrCABYcVfAtBALZmd9Runubt5bdcBt3E8JteekEgV3KHb2lZKWluIUUMTQlTu8DhTh-NcqssC4hPADkq/s320/yellow_pepper.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479029942542654274" border="0" /></a>Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-39894746903864664642010-02-19T21:46:00.000-05:002010-02-20T04:18:55.684-05:00A few new ones<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSjfj9Subm7r-d-P13VV-cfxAfJ9lmowK6_wme6NoPKSyfzeOQaUBssXtp7h4SW9p_NyUyMSLR4K5-WqRm5eXZaAr7erUtOl5_O2NryUZ3WNSoQxK6bJQz6ixk5gE4NVG2WQVM/s1600-h/bandw_14_1.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSjfj9Subm7r-d-P13VV-cfxAfJ9lmowK6_wme6NoPKSyfzeOQaUBssXtp7h4SW9p_NyUyMSLR4K5-WqRm5eXZaAr7erUtOl5_O2NryUZ3WNSoQxK6bJQz6ixk5gE4NVG2WQVM/s320/bandw_14_1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440251842683788450" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS3ErIzpEaIJOjHoVq1uIaOiHwic9wLMj2E4jbI3Xp0HOABvln5yr4CXThyusRlhYHYzxSt3hYaKVtfuvFmp98hMM68KbN_uT87lV-sXFTya_EZarP8Amh2DELLNjUDQZhi9p3/s1600-h/bandw_15_1.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 319px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS3ErIzpEaIJOjHoVq1uIaOiHwic9wLMj2E4jbI3Xp0HOABvln5yr4CXThyusRlhYHYzxSt3hYaKVtfuvFmp98hMM68KbN_uT87lV-sXFTya_EZarP8Amh2DELLNjUDQZhi9p3/s320/bandw_15_1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440184403729410610" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgblIPf0zF5fHwNHhVDFid4ZxFOsQ99tm-LdQA8BvvwkUhvaKwZ_1PWDFnCQnHRjAiDgPmrBg_C_hIyRYyCbjBYrWKHzyB7DnQGJriyKdq7WWlLK_EDw28Scwa4KG2LjyYpDucm/s1600-h/Untitled-23.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 319px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgblIPf0zF5fHwNHhVDFid4ZxFOsQ99tm-LdQA8BvvwkUhvaKwZ_1PWDFnCQnHRjAiDgPmrBg_C_hIyRYyCbjBYrWKHzyB7DnQGJriyKdq7WWlLK_EDw28Scwa4KG2LjyYpDucm/s320/Untitled-23.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440184270464449266" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMdC7wY3vFKq0ZmE674CXDi_uy2eDsgYd_aPBNEGWoNFbogsrVstcqXdD84Zf9gL4P4O2kmUJB_SE7PMv4yCSyF0v2lGTmOtazag6A1UkkMIWCRvRPAtnU4qegn8keKyOQ65se/s1600-h/Untitled-25.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMdC7wY3vFKq0ZmE674CXDi_uy2eDsgYd_aPBNEGWoNFbogsrVstcqXdD84Zf9gL4P4O2kmUJB_SE7PMv4yCSyF0v2lGTmOtazag6A1UkkMIWCRvRPAtnU4qegn8keKyOQ65se/s320/Untitled-25.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440184265052486338" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrtLY1hebnaHpxeOrucnKjQwkAO8ZkkAXsyAP8XCJain9jTObhyphenhyphenzB0S9EA1JXx4QPb82sHgnd7j7AFIDacEmdXjphC7FqiMh7KD6UkGz22ygdJS-8mB-V4YCnWWVRCRPtegUFx/s1600-h/Untitled-27.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 319px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrtLY1hebnaHpxeOrucnKjQwkAO8ZkkAXsyAP8XCJain9jTObhyphenhyphenzB0S9EA1JXx4QPb82sHgnd7j7AFIDacEmdXjphC7FqiMh7KD6UkGz22ygdJS-8mB-V4YCnWWVRCRPtegUFx/s320/Untitled-27.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440184262610573874" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlWgjNyPBJy_eKmioSqJjm4nPmYi4bZNhfnUHtht1NGObcpN2x1iqP-WektxxTE91Sr5Yf5TLKxA1i2HiYMgjrAVqblcXZnlaQyEq6i1cPrYp_JmIY0ESs0uITfAyuZO3vSaRf/s1600-h/Untitled-32.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 316px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlWgjNyPBJy_eKmioSqJjm4nPmYi4bZNhfnUHtht1NGObcpN2x1iqP-WektxxTE91Sr5Yf5TLKxA1i2HiYMgjrAVqblcXZnlaQyEq6i1cPrYp_JmIY0ESs0uITfAyuZO3vSaRf/s320/Untitled-32.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440184257454980690" border="0" /></a>Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-2792160817717412942010-02-11T00:10:00.000-05:002010-02-11T00:44:19.443-05:00Complicated Relationships<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikO-sThV4X-HLfKNWziQoMmALoxsoi-plXhT7CwuzLIadJsWyTcdbIS2ix4J-4IEA1sttpA-OldZmrLnR8hnQYuw7IBCv7xVHF57sAIdm_mxOH1-6IXlfD2KiRq-068-2pXA9t/s1600-h/woods_52.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikO-sThV4X-HLfKNWziQoMmALoxsoi-plXhT7CwuzLIadJsWyTcdbIS2ix4J-4IEA1sttpA-OldZmrLnR8hnQYuw7IBCv7xVHF57sAIdm_mxOH1-6IXlfD2KiRq-068-2pXA9t/s320/woods_52.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436857426912878914" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSvThldxWkLbcIhSiyyRJreKIc_ZQxldqFwe_bDAU5VVVJalaC6bY-TTZCC2Qt1L-YmU5HypflZYdqTcxp_-VBGgOYX3X1Y3ccQbMjVT9qqJYbgT0C3t-Ib7zq9KN9PtWNnF45/s1600-h/woods_51.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSvThldxWkLbcIhSiyyRJreKIc_ZQxldqFwe_bDAU5VVVJalaC6bY-TTZCC2Qt1L-YmU5HypflZYdqTcxp_-VBGgOYX3X1Y3ccQbMjVT9qqJYbgT0C3t-Ib7zq9KN9PtWNnF45/s320/woods_51.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436857324413021074" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWKx5Kve_J3ICsB6S7GD0XCTvyyQktzm3ZVHeVb9LU2x9QkHpCdz1jzeyqsYBt8r-O-WoD7L9rGzn4CdVoMo_9ujRaR7DPw7080Kii4rLlayLJfJEpDdw0dPPv9sPg77kgQPbu/s1600-h/woods_39.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 319px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWKx5Kve_J3ICsB6S7GD0XCTvyyQktzm3ZVHeVb9LU2x9QkHpCdz1jzeyqsYBt8r-O-WoD7L9rGzn4CdVoMo_9ujRaR7DPw7080Kii4rLlayLJfJEpDdw0dPPv9sPg77kgQPbu/s320/woods_39.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436857319597233474" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSRbrANLLqzzHKumUDURVFpSeGX7BtSKxyyysDl0__lwJ8Ma1xsmLnkR44f6HS589allUR-MZMsv_aE7RFaePlVle8QzayZ7985DkTZxSqO7_G8so_Q5LKsgpVBGBYwiogQqze/s1600-h/woods_35.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 319px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSRbrANLLqzzHKumUDURVFpSeGX7BtSKxyyysDl0__lwJ8Ma1xsmLnkR44f6HS589allUR-MZMsv_aE7RFaePlVle8QzayZ7985DkTZxSqO7_G8so_Q5LKsgpVBGBYwiogQqze/s320/woods_35.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436857320947676130" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTd_ZPv0I7ICZssGloY_CO-ZOEDnqoO4ZXloANtBrpKNUU22_5D4vGc8-fnS7bdj5PbwbXxdtUQPQ58vKUhUU-rJ960hulPMNDxS92oPWLo7ysXjsKGY-9uNcUotwq8iId8oif/s1600-h/woods_27.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTd_ZPv0I7ICZssGloY_CO-ZOEDnqoO4ZXloANtBrpKNUU22_5D4vGc8-fnS7bdj5PbwbXxdtUQPQ58vKUhUU-rJ960hulPMNDxS92oPWLo7ysXjsKGY-9uNcUotwq8iId8oif/s320/woods_27.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436857315375080082" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCb52T_LHscJVo63Tse0Yw2Q3ijY2Ndvv8fKb3sRmQe0zCU2dMW9VPxw11tKEoP3BtFta1t-0A7_2VSDorvMeheairNrNUuqjVGsTlLHU7Z7RC4hELoNhioGRxlG6gqFbdWVDN/s1600-h/woods_21.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 319px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCb52T_LHscJVo63Tse0Yw2Q3ijY2Ndvv8fKb3sRmQe0zCU2dMW9VPxw11tKEoP3BtFta1t-0A7_2VSDorvMeheairNrNUuqjVGsTlLHU7Z7RC4hELoNhioGRxlG6gqFbdWVDN/s320/woods_21.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436857308293539426" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyKs0ui2F8Odlu5u8Ag6ZrbnhJc-aK2jUELwVB0PC2n4qCq6Ha7fjT-EQE-mjRRrbrihfuOJ6spIrGQ6_mv1Y91xo03DTKJ3a2Ba7EONBwz_oUUeaoh0BGGWkozikdTVG58Rms/s1600-h/woods_12.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyKs0ui2F8Odlu5u8Ag6ZrbnhJc-aK2jUELwVB0PC2n4qCq6Ha7fjT-EQE-mjRRrbrihfuOJ6spIrGQ6_mv1Y91xo03DTKJ3a2Ba7EONBwz_oUUeaoh0BGGWkozikdTVG58Rms/s320/woods_12.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436857021265150546" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiByoaxsP3JCiGKyk-HlmTgyriHOgve21UYWatg4uSricw5ivvYhMJaHiyXnKezfpRYSrnXdeGELV7eOLIRrmQbjsfJ8qZ-IjdIVbwEZI0Q2xQT91xEPOImoRnF-3e9N0yCa7uz/s1600-h/woods_5.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiByoaxsP3JCiGKyk-HlmTgyriHOgve21UYWatg4uSricw5ivvYhMJaHiyXnKezfpRYSrnXdeGELV7eOLIRrmQbjsfJ8qZ-IjdIVbwEZI0Q2xQT91xEPOImoRnF-3e9N0yCa7uz/s320/woods_5.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436857015552194338" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzgaAT2jpCpMWjShnGZOna25_OLmS1SGSUTPsWf00_DnYUhES5NPiwFhvAFERCWLulMAxglIH-IMp-k4VYJ5S3lqf2LGsgG_qwBXD1gqxxT68c0IesOw3ywzKuePOV87mlkuH4/s1600-h/woods_4.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzgaAT2jpCpMWjShnGZOna25_OLmS1SGSUTPsWf00_DnYUhES5NPiwFhvAFERCWLulMAxglIH-IMp-k4VYJ5S3lqf2LGsgG_qwBXD1gqxxT68c0IesOw3ywzKuePOV87mlkuH4/s320/woods_4.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436857009719437698" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVncSwd4Kii1fguLwzHU5N8LcZxNOe93OOOWQqcJM5b1owj_lEg_5ffg5NLpHBzcgkvE-d4Ql8v2jRehLZ_Ka6rhQOCuIPaWGsh4r-G_AYJNME3hIuRo1wL7H_WsyMSB8XgU-y/s1600-h/woods_3.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 319px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVncSwd4Kii1fguLwzHU5N8LcZxNOe93OOOWQqcJM5b1owj_lEg_5ffg5NLpHBzcgkvE-d4Ql8v2jRehLZ_Ka6rhQOCuIPaWGsh4r-G_AYJNME3hIuRo1wL7H_WsyMSB8XgU-y/s320/woods_3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436857006205682658" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivUjNZqCEsyK2QKZv1AFzCAvJDUcBHFWOkRTQxaWLHdSAo9u20HtdtUEZXWmj9OSJXz510CnCBLMRJJyZeGTGA71ZNm-hdSPRZdl8Qmx6617kSMXEDpYlJGbjxKgqytcpkCOkx/s1600-h/woods_2.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 293px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivUjNZqCEsyK2QKZv1AFzCAvJDUcBHFWOkRTQxaWLHdSAo9u20HtdtUEZXWmj9OSJXz510CnCBLMRJJyZeGTGA71ZNm-hdSPRZdl8Qmx6617kSMXEDpYlJGbjxKgqytcpkCOkx/s320/woods_2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436857002607386882" border="0" /></a><br />This is not even a working title. I honestly don't have one yet. This series seems to morph a bit depending on what is going on in my life while I'm working on it. I started the project a few years ago but took a break from it for a while. I resumed shooting for it last November or thereabouts. I have written a couple of statements for it, but that changes as well. I'll dig up the most recent one and post it if anyone is interested. It's pretty close, I think, but still needs some updating because I've found some more correlations in regard to its connections to me personally. These images need further editing for actual showing, and I'm working on that now. I have several new ones which need to be scanned and edited, and I'll be adding those to the group soon.Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-84323623742506324802009-10-17T03:20:00.000-04:002009-10-17T04:31:27.820-04:00Holga Randomness<div>As I start on my final project for my studies at UArts, I think it's a good idea to put these older toy camera images up. I've been using various "toy" cameras for years; always searching for one tool or another to get me the mood I'm looking for in a particular type of imagery. I keep coming back to my Holgas. I started using Holgas in early 2006 because of an emulation assignment I was given in school. I chose Keith Carter as my model, but needed a camera that would afford me some kind of out of the ordinary selective focus. I couldn't afford a camera with movements; I had just purchased a Hasselblad and there was simply no money for anything else. So I did some research and came up with the Holga. The look was different, but the mood was very similar to what I saw in Carter's images. I can't do a real emulation of anyone anyhow. My work has to be my own, so it was a relief to find something similar....but different for that assignment. Problem was, I fell in love with the look I got out of my Holga. I had just blown a huge amount of money on my Hassy, but it was my Holga I wanted to use. I even went to a great deal of trouble to make glass filters for my Hassy to get a similar look, but it just wasn't the same. It killed me to leave that beautiful Swedish camera on the shelf, but I did it and went plastic for a while. That was just the beginning. I now have three Holgas, a couple of wide angle 35mm plastic cameras, a few TLRs from the old Lomo factory, various old lenses for some old 4x5s, and a Diana. I print in old processes as well as digital. I shoot both film and digital, and with both good glass and cheap plastic lenses. I would like to think that my images all look as though they come from the same photographer, regardless of the tools used to create the images. I love having an arsenal of tools within reach so that I can always find a way to get what I see in my head into my final image. I suppose one of these days I'll settle into something and sell off a lot of the extraneous gear, but for now, there's a certain comfort in knowing these things are there for me if I need them.</div><div><br /></div><div>Right now, I'm shooting Swarthmore, PA. I've always photographed the places I've lived in, and a few of them have ended up in my class assignments, but I've never loved a place as much as I love this one. I'm using my Holgas again and many of the images will end up as gum dichromate prints. I've been a little crazy about printing gum using digital CMYK negative separations lately, not only because of the type of imagery it affords me, but also because I like mixing the old or rudimentary techniques with the new. I think they feed and validate one another.......</div><div><br /></div><div>That talk could go on, so for now, I've got some old images up. I've shot several rolls of Swarthmore and am about to get out and shoot more. The gum prints might be a little slow in getting up here as they will take a lot of time to make and need to be photographed, copy camera-style, to get digital captures. I'll be making mostly digital prints from my negs, then making gums of the ones I like the most out of CMYK separations.</div><div><br /></div><div> </div><div>Lum's Pond, DE</div><div><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2kY8Shqms43fBsl_oZBzn3vMi9tkisUiIj19Q-iH-y31YT87CDNFluaH5FklyO3y-QIq693KpSHLLREGnrUxUdoRMlHVIjLGJ4HT2-KlmEPHoH80kU_xyfz1341Jrf6xzLDsP/s1600-h/lums_5_adjusted.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2kY8Shqms43fBsl_oZBzn3vMi9tkisUiIj19Q-iH-y31YT87CDNFluaH5FklyO3y-QIq693KpSHLLREGnrUxUdoRMlHVIjLGJ4HT2-KlmEPHoH80kU_xyfz1341Jrf6xzLDsP/s320/lums_5_adjusted.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5393469052853434706" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-mNvsZ641WAB75_yrwC2NXAHRuLlTKQuK16ssFj4knk47I1wKMTphlrHYH72DKGj-8q0NOpQseH5_-Xf7VwYR7te0tGjq57QJaVcfTc1Rwz0ZGq0qPSZtbdoM3lqpaRnjOKo3/s1600-h/lums_1_adjusted.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 317px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-mNvsZ641WAB75_yrwC2NXAHRuLlTKQuK16ssFj4knk47I1wKMTphlrHYH72DKGj-8q0NOpQseH5_-Xf7VwYR7te0tGjq57QJaVcfTc1Rwz0ZGq0qPSZtbdoM3lqpaRnjOKo3/s320/lums_1_adjusted.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5393469049170267250" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZl0T4C2Z_rcDyWxKgalxM0wW1RuRtCqBlJQtoQRKQDy4cDlgLHa9KLXuLc6hYUyJprG-9M4ksxp5ef0u0fiyKlrqItvznwR_JCbnSKZKCOCbNlSaxIuJhK7LQLfbIxwPlUv5Q/s1600-h/lums_11_adjusted.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 317px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZl0T4C2Z_rcDyWxKgalxM0wW1RuRtCqBlJQtoQRKQDy4cDlgLHa9KLXuLc6hYUyJprG-9M4ksxp5ef0u0fiyKlrqItvznwR_JCbnSKZKCOCbNlSaxIuJhK7LQLfbIxwPlUv5Q/s320/lums_11_adjusted.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5393469040607537842" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN_XcpCzUWtaWZF_4yyhk4GOZAJKNHm6xl8WMl4lxVOokKV1YpU88WJECav3NavRvOhg7oqpYSsuyMghD_hnng7wQSMB601JoR74DuzDfZX2aKrN0T-a3oRgIQCBNnPzwCmSZS/s1600-h/lums_4_adjusted.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 317px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN_XcpCzUWtaWZF_4yyhk4GOZAJKNHm6xl8WMl4lxVOokKV1YpU88WJECav3NavRvOhg7oqpYSsuyMghD_hnng7wQSMB601JoR74DuzDfZX2aKrN0T-a3oRgIQCBNnPzwCmSZS/s320/lums_4_adjusted.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5393469031137791154" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0YOgeJZbHSvb90h6eKgWbMCD_38AT9aVlHKJ7P72jRK_sqKag3la-n2TnwhbW1G-Hk3ntB2aX34TUm_lVXLg9js1kUfXPZVUnoWVJFFRvlddK5mzZGa0e8n0SX76OTQWRk-j9/s1600-h/lums_7_adjusted.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0YOgeJZbHSvb90h6eKgWbMCD_38AT9aVlHKJ7P72jRK_sqKag3la-n2TnwhbW1G-Hk3ntB2aX34TUm_lVXLg9js1kUfXPZVUnoWVJFFRvlddK5mzZGa0e8n0SX76OTQWRk-j9/s320/lums_7_adjusted.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5393469030369246594" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>Stan's laboratory</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3oBlDey9xo8GONaQZ03ZA_fu9QrOn53jmfOLsSeWImoOiIYwnJYLHBbZxceC5YsJm9LLQj6NFZb6U6NE2E6eU_nrEomYhCU-xYUvHQyYtVuxzLYOVncy978ZyUFQuYsmcYcMs/s1600-h/img041.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3oBlDey9xo8GONaQZ03ZA_fu9QrOn53jmfOLsSeWImoOiIYwnJYLHBbZxceC5YsJm9LLQj6NFZb6U6NE2E6eU_nrEomYhCU-xYUvHQyYtVuxzLYOVncy978ZyUFQuYsmcYcMs/s320/img041.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5393468085287532402" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheoydmsP6JEZ6BiwIvdS-DBoU8_5tKwNM3W1g887oz9lUPi_0Q7LE473CjXqji0RyUhyq1Sp-05cP1smdQPiR26XSi_tnPESL1MxrcNrKgPNl_jgFDOpW6jWtyXXH8kj5O2W5o/s1600-h/img040.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 318px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheoydmsP6JEZ6BiwIvdS-DBoU8_5tKwNM3W1g887oz9lUPi_0Q7LE473CjXqji0RyUhyq1Sp-05cP1smdQPiR26XSi_tnPESL1MxrcNrKgPNl_jgFDOpW6jWtyXXH8kj5O2W5o/s320/img040.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5393468075659802130" /></a><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Utterly random Holga shots....</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBDHykt-Jv3kZKVnljkM__LYDeacgnmFXGtZ8DR8SdV2hvTqESoAyr-X5HxHNETBSPvS5dQyTcpgZtpM__YL6nU0gUpeBRClisiNb3EMB0FXiRH-_LOLSb7PTMzJyeARTS2a7m/s1600-h/Untitled-6_adjusted.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBDHykt-Jv3kZKVnljkM__LYDeacgnmFXGtZ8DR8SdV2hvTqESoAyr-X5HxHNETBSPvS5dQyTcpgZtpM__YL6nU0gUpeBRClisiNb3EMB0FXiRH-_LOLSb7PTMzJyeARTS2a7m/s320/Untitled-6_adjusted.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5393467685438289826" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB2hALB5VBikD12Xxht7oc0A0QD_EH6ehA61E6PIOwiM7V3Eje-OI1b0Y2nZhiC-sf0DzRqTQk57PPJSNVfsxRbDE9IgMDUKS9qDdywIpnFpCEgjdOzUUEQmAa_UgGxGn7IR5F/s1600-h/Untitled-4_adjusted.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB2hALB5VBikD12Xxht7oc0A0QD_EH6ehA61E6PIOwiM7V3Eje-OI1b0Y2nZhiC-sf0DzRqTQk57PPJSNVfsxRbDE9IgMDUKS9qDdywIpnFpCEgjdOzUUEQmAa_UgGxGn7IR5F/s320/Untitled-4_adjusted.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5393467680550112434" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZVBrOwiktd_ZG09NU8aT4V2LHAaSgUHbkIhyphenhypheno2LevgZk5Pc-Z-icauLjCXsKeg19g-ex0h_tW3iK7t24ABeBujqmm4dAPGmcw0OryVK4RmJ9HPZQFx724Yebsg2AntJf31-1Z/s1600-h/Untitled-5.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZVBrOwiktd_ZG09NU8aT4V2LHAaSgUHbkIhyphenhypheno2LevgZk5Pc-Z-icauLjCXsKeg19g-ex0h_tW3iK7t24ABeBujqmm4dAPGmcw0OryVK4RmJ9HPZQFx724Yebsg2AntJf31-1Z/s320/Untitled-5.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5393467671154708946" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-PJvfGsgGo7Tr-ofCMsCT49GZAYBGAYLhuBCwYGX4qxMJIy_WqYVdfm2jtrtN_D3LWr3toRsQDBu2rzzuwOjqJQG0r04GxtZ7loHc-ezrfLfISaBdJCJB4cjfywcHExvnTcmH/s1600-h/Untitled-1_adjusted.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-PJvfGsgGo7Tr-ofCMsCT49GZAYBGAYLhuBCwYGX4qxMJIy_WqYVdfm2jtrtN_D3LWr3toRsQDBu2rzzuwOjqJQG0r04GxtZ7loHc-ezrfLfISaBdJCJB4cjfywcHExvnTcmH/s320/Untitled-1_adjusted.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5393467663671025058" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMcxE_6_NJwUZg9OHadweXQ13x-d13nSqLa_UOl85-o1dtpzU0aXLXF4plavc5d3gbYaAh3dwS4dOyPukmbon_aw87eypRl7HwoXkW_meFo3_4udUkPiW6JsaRLIIcjA2TkQgO/s1600-h/Untitled-3_adjusted.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 314px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMcxE_6_NJwUZg9OHadweXQ13x-d13nSqLa_UOl85-o1dtpzU0aXLXF4plavc5d3gbYaAh3dwS4dOyPukmbon_aw87eypRl7HwoXkW_meFo3_4udUkPiW6JsaRLIIcjA2TkQgO/s320/Untitled-3_adjusted.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5393467657584065922" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>St Helena's annual carnival, 2006</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidcgVZa6i5zeq0j4CswcbGwUgsdIty8abQWBtlVho_uTm2wqHD08bIJE4uv9L42rOIUzHNZpr9uU4Tuv8vzeIGkkgNalEuxhkWWuVZLBiBItiTv1O57oui8xJqlGRw4EupUD6X/s1600-h/dragon_adjusted.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 315px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidcgVZa6i5zeq0j4CswcbGwUgsdIty8abQWBtlVho_uTm2wqHD08bIJE4uv9L42rOIUzHNZpr9uU4Tuv8vzeIGkkgNalEuxhkWWuVZLBiBItiTv1O57oui8xJqlGRw4EupUD6X/s320/dragon_adjusted.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5393465702163621698" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8doIjwVafcqdF1uHvw7Tu9WRcoRUB_ZCx9rIBir6l81pz0QYi3qh5vTjwkxk8MyHVjjGkpopm0_iH4dvg2QM_IhCE2lTLAsJAMkyEeflB9Vu96C5qfETLCk1W_T4e5jPA4K2V/s1600-h/tut1_adjusted.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8doIjwVafcqdF1uHvw7Tu9WRcoRUB_ZCx9rIBir6l81pz0QYi3qh5vTjwkxk8MyHVjjGkpopm0_iH4dvg2QM_IhCE2lTLAsJAMkyEeflB9Vu96C5qfETLCk1W_T4e5jPA4K2V/s320/tut1_adjusted.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5393465692187992722" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqNV1ljPFqp2xGcg626ZNmN8kMNM8-i-VACg0hdXwaQxC1y9UX5m28ueupD30z9AkZNyzkEah_GyRROtySlyq0HORNff1rrRctOtK-I_4bKeEDmIaVWcFDB6tVagd_QOIl8-66/s1600-h/tut2_adjusted.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqNV1ljPFqp2xGcg626ZNmN8kMNM8-i-VACg0hdXwaQxC1y9UX5m28ueupD30z9AkZNyzkEah_GyRROtySlyq0HORNff1rrRctOtK-I_4bKeEDmIaVWcFDB6tVagd_QOIl8-66/s320/tut2_adjusted.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5393465685256269234" /></a>Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-61006510169703013762009-08-22T21:47:00.000-04:002009-08-23T01:25:57.302-04:00Random Studio Images From Last Semester<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpEiQPYekAuXrNwaeAeA5FbCsQZ12kzycm46raS_zIa22EqscJ_Y1kr9PO3G1rMl1ohREoYmAueolqo0FdyzWY13qGR3RZMk6EJEwA_osyKH0as01kh1uvVdsVDSLjtaqVM60a/s1600-h/glass+on+white.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpEiQPYekAuXrNwaeAeA5FbCsQZ12kzycm46raS_zIa22EqscJ_Y1kr9PO3G1rMl1ohREoYmAueolqo0FdyzWY13qGR3RZMk6EJEwA_osyKH0as01kh1uvVdsVDSLjtaqVM60a/s320/glass+on+white.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372993093006490434" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYb5M3LZJH8eBQ0l1kaEXMKJDcZU20j50BC1YCoiSZNepxE4jmcknk8UIYsQDGrZqohxa3wVthsxnxaMHjXZ45tZZcOQzcjYCdI44-lrFB80j2ePwExJlexSlqn-skn9KOLn_O/s1600-h/glass+on+black.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYb5M3LZJH8eBQ0l1kaEXMKJDcZU20j50BC1YCoiSZNepxE4jmcknk8UIYsQDGrZqohxa3wVthsxnxaMHjXZ45tZZcOQzcjYCdI44-lrFB80j2ePwExJlexSlqn-skn9KOLn_O/s320/glass+on+black.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372993090033006530" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrwszFrMuUsWUEzZvmiK9uLX113oZSXLxB_59g4YJM7X-XRvNq8VFQyXRyV45M8KA6aBGmEmV26gTyKQ7UrGh1bqeiCeO12v2C4wKpPrMKzliodf5uPhXBKRrhYFnhkxlZKa_K/s1600-h/black+pear.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrwszFrMuUsWUEzZvmiK9uLX113oZSXLxB_59g4YJM7X-XRvNq8VFQyXRyV45M8KA6aBGmEmV26gTyKQ7UrGh1bqeiCeO12v2C4wKpPrMKzliodf5uPhXBKRrhYFnhkxlZKa_K/s320/black+pear.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372992879059935842" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNIrfC1YiW-psnqRW4hIhvcvF0ysZa7dJtPpP1ZCBa-qhelEPEv4us7fULXNsB6gwbPT12V0qL45vHiD1gi3hgRP02rDqeaAiKwDxqG1IYGiuY1mG2udpHkgLgJPbfbTVHnfvE/s1600-h/lit+pear.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNIrfC1YiW-psnqRW4hIhvcvF0ysZa7dJtPpP1ZCBa-qhelEPEv4us7fULXNsB6gwbPT12V0qL45vHiD1gi3hgRP02rDqeaAiKwDxqG1IYGiuY1mG2udpHkgLgJPbfbTVHnfvE/s320/lit+pear.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372992875507436978" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWBWFZ4bTphD0CkXtpwINGS4L5UGy5YLplvzaEa-yRznsvI3m-e9A6D8F-RH_S82b34MM80WuBJpVs7QKo9uLXB8CHXhIApF5dy_pOl2rpGLuykTFOuuzwH67VwJP8F775D6ag/s1600-h/powder.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWBWFZ4bTphD0CkXtpwINGS4L5UGy5YLplvzaEa-yRznsvI3m-e9A6D8F-RH_S82b34MM80WuBJpVs7QKo9uLXB8CHXhIApF5dy_pOl2rpGLuykTFOuuzwH67VwJP8F775D6ag/s320/powder.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372992869501217538" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_0BwczrlFMjzJho_KKePqUb9aq2b5cLqKyiV0c8wYceDTnhjwk4z7AsnNY9IKd0tRe95rjQ6hYc1b5Mt2XXbGagz9fsCj-hobebKIvx69CvNgTffThl7ltrjWk23qKVQ0nVt8/s1600-h/pink+fabric+phone.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 217px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_0BwczrlFMjzJho_KKePqUb9aq2b5cLqKyiV0c8wYceDTnhjwk4z7AsnNY9IKd0tRe95rjQ6hYc1b5Mt2XXbGagz9fsCj-hobebKIvx69CvNgTffThl7ltrjWk23qKVQ0nVt8/s320/pink+fabric+phone.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372992860470172914" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzRsAVnuQXdhbHehyphenhyphen3e9kQyaS7XM0e1Rsrnj0VxQJe-bjD7PCXNM0O493gHQyyC8poylseBYXtln80J2Tn4nmHp50V_Gw-WZvhG3oJ0_azUqH8AWu8rcga9YfChU4clQTu_J1q/s1600-h/N.+Ren.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzRsAVnuQXdhbHehyphenhyphen3e9kQyaS7XM0e1Rsrnj0VxQJe-bjD7PCXNM0O493gHQyyC8poylseBYXtln80J2Tn4nmHp50V_Gw-WZvhG3oJ0_azUqH8AWu8rcga9YfChU4clQTu_J1q/s320/N.+Ren.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372992157197533666" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXYlqbncbxbQw3hkyOfxLxzaCsmGU67V5GESN6Wwk2OiAIgFbjrxTPZEwfnvDI_Bk5esigV9kRWBWLaYdMOsf9gUuet3xB7e1d-DY1f452XyGK2Ey_PgjfloxGSOABzCE34MwW/s1600-h/close+encounters+scott.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 201px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXYlqbncbxbQw3hkyOfxLxzaCsmGU67V5GESN6Wwk2OiAIgFbjrxTPZEwfnvDI_Bk5esigV9kRWBWLaYdMOsf9gUuet3xB7e1d-DY1f452XyGK2Ey_PgjfloxGSOABzCE34MwW/s320/close+encounters+scott.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372992155758780850" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkStzyXeiP7r9mUsg8X1pQCB5u35_DPUckQUWF-BEo45TDXOwx4IQTwbSG9tREhZEvrZv3ytFjSk029EDdS9h46ikakqMywjI94SKB0hB-AllpKqOQE2e-earcSyd_HpCvV506/s1600-h/not+nice+scott.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 222px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkStzyXeiP7r9mUsg8X1pQCB5u35_DPUckQUWF-BEo45TDXOwx4IQTwbSG9tREhZEvrZv3ytFjSk029EDdS9h46ikakqMywjI94SKB0hB-AllpKqOQE2e-earcSyd_HpCvV506/s320/not+nice+scott.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372992144958925570" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjekiN9RiQfZXdu_gv6tMFd8PjnfiSH1bsgxw4_qoPAxVj5OdsXyc6C2Sd90G_rDlLfzCLrIgkjP7RZqh3EekaG1fBHZfgxnWRbD-d5RQ6wT8Xx2c18kPzyNcPgBCjmkR-A2XRc/s1600-h/washing+machine.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjekiN9RiQfZXdu_gv6tMFd8PjnfiSH1bsgxw4_qoPAxVj5OdsXyc6C2Sd90G_rDlLfzCLrIgkjP7RZqh3EekaG1fBHZfgxnWRbD-d5RQ6wT8Xx2c18kPzyNcPgBCjmkR-A2XRc/s320/washing+machine.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372992139372840290" /></a><br />Just a few images from last year. School starts in a week and a half. This semester is going to be jam packed full of work, but it should be doable. Soooo many major projects. I just hope it isn't as tough as last semester. I made it on the dean's list again, but pulling 3-4 back-to-back all-nighters every single week for three and a half months might just kill me if I try to do it again. If I find it's too much, I can always get rid of one class because I'm taking more than I need. <div><br /></div><div>The image of me and the washing machine was the impetus for my final. The rest of the images are pretty formulaic and not done particularly well. We crammed a lot into one semester, so there was really only one week's shot at each. I know how to do them all properly now, so it should make each type of shooting easier in the future. I'll be buying my set of strobes soon and have some ideas in mind for that, but it might have to wait for winter break.</div>Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-65637287917212389392009-07-07T18:13:00.000-04:002009-07-07T18:35:11.575-04:00Studio II images<div>Just some images from my last studio class at UArts. They are about my feelings of being overwhelmed by the mess in our house when we were moving in. We actually packed up and moved everything in the week before finals, so I had to do all of this in one week. Not easy. I was trying to merely use the studio strobes to get the feeling of real room lighting, but without the dim shadows, light fall-off, and tungsten yellow-orange color cast. For some reason, I felt the need to get a window into every shot. It's nice that by looking out the windows and seeing light outside, the room is expected to appear darker inside. It is simply not expected and therefore a bit cinematic--not real. Perhaps it's the fact that I love the old metal windows in this house. <br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0FdateEhe90Mbd4yB4_mbmldjE12sREldzxq7Fzau7Wig5ZDOyurcLiLbq6zEJIJPxsbztal_adzAjembxu55k7Uo9EN9n6rJ3U1y_BsgQ4f8H5TbqeFz9rKrnSPTcAird6_Y/s1600-h/mattress.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0FdateEhe90Mbd4yB4_mbmldjE12sREldzxq7Fzau7Wig5ZDOyurcLiLbq6zEJIJPxsbztal_adzAjembxu55k7Uo9EN9n6rJ3U1y_BsgQ4f8H5TbqeFz9rKrnSPTcAird6_Y/s320/mattress.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355848950456692946" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw1rXzBuRurxDmxd5YkUYufLj5ME-mpRclhHgBWKKp4HPPJFvq7_BToV33-6fVbTXtSMFsPmivAqomG0MyB1whzTyh4UjnKJbWmfLGc6XZfn4412YM35uN2Nw339iu5haF189P/s1600-h/kitchen.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw1rXzBuRurxDmxd5YkUYufLj5ME-mpRclhHgBWKKp4HPPJFvq7_BToV33-6fVbTXtSMFsPmivAqomG0MyB1whzTyh4UjnKJbWmfLGc6XZfn4412YM35uN2Nw339iu5haF189P/s320/kitchen.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355848945963903938" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKvIXmiRwbUfB-yQZPgQK7-5zbQP7tNlfDpeSNBTsiVnlsnPFbIfrzvYoMCwbJ172JOY0t94WIBsGLoyumsaAIepufLMkSDrwNWhW4pLuR8LOsJz9B3f3GNK1dajpDi7-AxAAu/s1600-h/laundry+room.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 253px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKvIXmiRwbUfB-yQZPgQK7-5zbQP7tNlfDpeSNBTsiVnlsnPFbIfrzvYoMCwbJ172JOY0t94WIBsGLoyumsaAIepufLMkSDrwNWhW4pLuR8LOsJz9B3f3GNK1dajpDi7-AxAAu/s320/laundry+room.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355848936949654706" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhssC9c0zMx6oxYmC28sIrHyErU5L1DuvtPfZjzJ7dvDgG15iOStEyC4hgTKHxsFw8_CbrxwDaloxPrnCV6UMoYfuWnB3MeD3eCZS34gnxUEjHholMhGDTvfG30ZwDgWMevCZEX/s1600-h/under+bed.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhssC9c0zMx6oxYmC28sIrHyErU5L1DuvtPfZjzJ7dvDgG15iOStEyC4hgTKHxsFw8_CbrxwDaloxPrnCV6UMoYfuWnB3MeD3eCZS34gnxUEjHholMhGDTvfG30ZwDgWMevCZEX/s320/under+bed.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355848315427368802" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNiF4BrDu9FE8Vq2xFGUJDVVnAgFGIxLBhStMbYJuV5iXJDbgpKLARLktRr8Zmi3GJAn08Lkjgi6l-2mrdEj9Z9dJqgd1G_TIQCNDkCckycrTOA0M4zO1ixrItqiLdbMHOa2ZG/s1600-h/clothes+rack.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 253px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNiF4BrDu9FE8Vq2xFGUJDVVnAgFGIxLBhStMbYJuV5iXJDbgpKLARLktRr8Zmi3GJAn08Lkjgi6l-2mrdEj9Z9dJqgd1G_TIQCNDkCckycrTOA0M4zO1ixrItqiLdbMHOa2ZG/s320/clothes+rack.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355848306199528546" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO8wtbM1kJEDs8rCfdtqDtFEowta6kNPbDzKp8bbD4Rre-u0pXj4T0-GhqZDaOVdVHg-XkJSJAbyqqODfrOqJfLSGn9hbVACID6jHsHPFrzubb-vPrbxKB0vFolN1RkvIIbter/s1600-h/crate.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO8wtbM1kJEDs8rCfdtqDtFEowta6kNPbDzKp8bbD4Rre-u0pXj4T0-GhqZDaOVdVHg-XkJSJAbyqqODfrOqJfLSGn9hbVACID6jHsHPFrzubb-vPrbxKB0vFolN1RkvIIbter/s320/crate.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355848296057928034" /></a>Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-8204301690117993272009-04-24T01:08:00.000-04:002009-04-24T01:14:46.783-04:00<div>A few more from my latest series. I would say more about them, but I'm exhausted and keep falling asleep....</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZKMKj6FKfIcydEQXhRgVqcVBpuDomJYodLHHzJ_vbL0Kr44Bz5Bi1Fk1dMOOfOtVnXgRoIZxT8Qw3rL-Sx1cGydOIyXBB9AYWgAFcSw8xApHF7eHjgNMy0N28g142JTkPUZ6_/s1600-h/onion+chairs.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 250px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZKMKj6FKfIcydEQXhRgVqcVBpuDomJYodLHHzJ_vbL0Kr44Bz5Bi1Fk1dMOOfOtVnXgRoIZxT8Qw3rL-Sx1cGydOIyXBB9AYWgAFcSw8xApHF7eHjgNMy0N28g142JTkPUZ6_/s320/onion+chairs.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5328120835906362514" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb87t9t5nkHau2Qnj2kctycHyNoFLrmWFKYMyYEsmEEMITxBmjct47jdj19e6ozaWjFx9e2ye_njpKu37Erf8320INZ1ZlOOabkK9tJSfWzXLxphYojSt_a4LD6ncXK99rLeA0/s1600-h/tulip.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 222px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb87t9t5nkHau2Qnj2kctycHyNoFLrmWFKYMyYEsmEEMITxBmjct47jdj19e6ozaWjFx9e2ye_njpKu37Erf8320INZ1ZlOOabkK9tJSfWzXLxphYojSt_a4LD6ncXK99rLeA0/s320/tulip.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5328120831108571282" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRt8ouqs_uu9rQcmfseCtq5ngR0H1OCo_Z_YAcGYgwDX9w58qOC2300FNc8xB_YyGZeGycpcbNEExqmGwGRq4-PcGdf2Ln4Ub61CcBWpnhw1g41PEk-x76Zc6BbJPr42kpTk-C/s1600-h/lily+clock.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 220px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRt8ouqs_uu9rQcmfseCtq5ngR0H1OCo_Z_YAcGYgwDX9w58qOC2300FNc8xB_YyGZeGycpcbNEExqmGwGRq4-PcGdf2Ln4Ub61CcBWpnhw1g41PEk-x76Zc6BbJPr42kpTk-C/s320/lily+clock.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5328120825578229314" /></a><br /></div>Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-57856786007212007032009-03-26T00:18:00.001-04:002009-03-26T01:01:22.111-04:00The Altered SubjectOkay, so I'm pretty sure this is the last prescribed sort of assignment I'll be getting from my Junior Workshop instructor, David. We were to alter our subject in some way without using Photoshop. I had the toughest time coming up with something. I've been pretty out of my element and out of it in general for a couple of years now, so I didn't know how to handle this. I had a couple of ideas, but they were weak at best and still not "me". So, I talked with my instructor, he gave a few examples of what the concept means, and I said, "well, the last thing I was doing that really worked for me were these little set-ups". He said, "Well, there you go." I think I was able to visualize what I wanted to do within minutes of the end of that conversation. That was a just a few days ago, and the assignment was due today. I had two weeks to do this, and spring break was one of them, so if I'd known what I wanted to do, I could have gotten many more than just the three images done. I thought I was done with the set-ups, but I like how these turned out. I think I'll finish out the semester with this work and make it my final. Should be fun--tons of work, but fun.<div><br /></div><div>I started these at 3am and worked through to nearly 1pm. The furniture in the rooms is purchased dollhouse furniture which I have painted to make look aged and used. I wanted the rooms to look run down, colorful, textural, and off-kilter. My subject here is still life, but I've tried to make it look a little more surreal. Strange thing, a couple of days after I spoke to David, I took one of those ridiculous Facebook quizzes. This one was "which painting are you?" The result was Magritte's Son of Man. Silly, but it was like an omen. I wanted the still lifes to overpower the rooms they were in to transform them into completely new objects. Just something a little ambiguous, unexpected, odd, and maybe a little uncomfortable. The rooms feel a little oppressive to me. I wanted the color to be both muted and intense, hence the browns mixed with the almost neon colors. I like that play. I also like the way the vibrant freshness of these fruits and veg contrast with the dirty surroundings--feels kind of like hope to me, and they elevate the importance of their surroundings in that respect for me. The fruit and veg were attached to the boxes they were in via large screws jutting into the boxes from behind. I wanted them to appear to be floating--just there, like that's where they should be in that environment.</div><div><br /></div><div>.....I could go on and on about this, but I have reading to do and am already feeling sleep taking over......</div><div> </div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtGn2RYUBQjsX4rn6dfxJ_0lUNRl8FxjZrh8hXTc7eQDzTcaoSeubcCrz0DwT6Otfh6K3MFZ0QfkCiJZzJ7V36xDWRSRBBYv-3H59QenwRsReg21F3h1UBSB-tFblUWDJidyjS/s1600-h/apple+1+print.jpg"><br /><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 251px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtGn2RYUBQjsX4rn6dfxJ_0lUNRl8FxjZrh8hXTc7eQDzTcaoSeubcCrz0DwT6Otfh6K3MFZ0QfkCiJZzJ7V36xDWRSRBBYv-3H59QenwRsReg21F3h1UBSB-tFblUWDJidyjS/s320/apple+1+print.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5317354913848901586" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyTRCMpjMZgIqT_hwlSqeCZ1y-hASu_mTFiPLKTXVrHzZSjJ4z4c6G0nSIUe9dNNPwuShQTuI3VPb4r7HvSW1BvA97_oImaXNEYgQEoClC_89LcOcGMwN27wUC5_pEd8mICe1S/s1600-h/sweet+pepper+1+print.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 211px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyTRCMpjMZgIqT_hwlSqeCZ1y-hASu_mTFiPLKTXVrHzZSjJ4z4c6G0nSIUe9dNNPwuShQTuI3VPb4r7HvSW1BvA97_oImaXNEYgQEoClC_89LcOcGMwN27wUC5_pEd8mICe1S/s320/sweet+pepper+1+print.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5317354914136024578" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLzF13PBIpkuXbU4ltfxDOadLnkPycsD8klQtjmNTa4NIFwnQyq90mdX3_DznPLOxOVjSgUxRAHLNaH1rm6_rSY6t7nMHdalhD8BJnDQh_1CQulqNAQb_JJqX2HRCZIpPln1-k/s1600-h/yellow+pepper+1+print.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 216px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLzF13PBIpkuXbU4ltfxDOadLnkPycsD8klQtjmNTa4NIFwnQyq90mdX3_DznPLOxOVjSgUxRAHLNaH1rm6_rSY6t7nMHdalhD8BJnDQh_1CQulqNAQb_JJqX2HRCZIpPln1-k/s320/yellow+pepper+1+print.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5317354907269788130" /></a>Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-32596476098656227972009-03-09T23:46:00.000-04:002009-03-12T16:56:01.936-04:00The Altered Print<div>There is a longstanding project or topic I've been considering and working on in bits and pieces for a while now. A few months ago, I came across this little book in an antiques mall. It's titled <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Addison's Sir Roger DeCoverley. </span>It was published in 1917, but I believe the story predates that. As I started thumbing through the book, I found many parallels between this character's situation with a pretty, highly intelligent, and ultimately deceptive widow, and a situation of my own.</div><div><br /></div><div>This work is part of recent assignment I had at UArts. It was titled. "The Altered Print". It was designed to get students to consider all portions of their work, from start to finish: shooting, processing, and the final print. The final print was to be altered in some way, and concept was to be considered when making the decision as to how to alter these prints. I shot the images digitally, then made a print. I altered that first print by applying a solvent (of sorts) to the ink so I could move it around a bit. I tried to make them look like monotypes at this stage. I then put these altered prints back through the printer. I made a high contrast version of each image with text taken from the book and printed that on top of each of the altered prints. I wanted them to resemble handmade illustrations which might belong in a book, reflecting the source of the text, the story in it, and my own vague little tale. It was also important to me that these have an altered digital feel to them. I like the idea of hand-manipulating something digital which itself makes the notion of manipulating the hyper reality of photography a problem for people today. My intent here was to obscure the obvious, to confuse, to be vague, and to allow the viewer to draw his own conclusions. I think I may have obscured things a little too much, and perhaps erased more than I would have liked of my own story. My situation is my own though, and no one can ever really know another's experience. </div><div><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKmAd2mDXiS4iQ3FoPqt7O9dQy1jFnnRdhgkp5z8fEUfWsmMi4VdaAxEcqFK47M13gHMcwpldsf7ivSgm-nH33gL_9IXpdsvsaEDk9EeuTs359Q6kAQQmIq-UJSGdfBxGfLu51/s1600-h/decoverley+this+barbarity.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 246px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKmAd2mDXiS4iQ3FoPqt7O9dQy1jFnnRdhgkp5z8fEUfWsmMi4VdaAxEcqFK47M13gHMcwpldsf7ivSgm-nH33gL_9IXpdsvsaEDk9EeuTs359Q6kAQQmIq-UJSGdfBxGfLu51/s320/decoverley+this+barbarity.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311410300496521522" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQMj8txDQ7F5BRQi0JbxX3fkKA_VYXS9h_hB_HBPZgQi1jq5X2h-Wvug8h883DNngWEmrnz1DEdkp-Hi85aGB2WlwtKbH7VV9otp639jnIy-UYV85nLiciyTddwJxfMpIptY0f/s1600-h/decoverley+make-ep.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 246px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQMj8txDQ7F5BRQi0JbxX3fkKA_VYXS9h_hB_HBPZgQi1jq5X2h-Wvug8h883DNngWEmrnz1DEdkp-Hi85aGB2WlwtKbH7VV9otp639jnIy-UYV85nLiciyTddwJxfMpIptY0f/s320/decoverley+make-ep.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311410300368449474" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhioX7kDt7O8t9zWZ0VZ-QujLRBJTznsMNHMjjBXHhmEj3R_jDbFvoivPXb0a0dGD18x1yqPVZTxPPXJcKcY0-rRElkA8D1ysKyffOIE3d2cIko87QXgnZA-BUHsdaj-KoeF94L/s1600-h/decoverley+red+boots.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 246px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhioX7kDt7O8t9zWZ0VZ-QujLRBJTznsMNHMjjBXHhmEj3R_jDbFvoivPXb0a0dGD18x1yqPVZTxPPXJcKcY0-rRElkA8D1ysKyffOIE3d2cIko87QXgnZA-BUHsdaj-KoeF94L/s320/decoverley+red+boots.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311410293297099826" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAo5McPg1FiXfYB14DWr4ogr_5aKz8_kIZ1e6e_6cKGD1KWMj6JouEcNGXtjiTIpGFX4tvvqb7_Io81M9gPITxB7yTUTVq5anImASkEjHpn4UDfMSRA21Cwf5pdEQE4AqNnvFW/s1600-h/decoverley+fridge.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 247px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAo5McPg1FiXfYB14DWr4ogr_5aKz8_kIZ1e6e_6cKGD1KWMj6JouEcNGXtjiTIpGFX4tvvqb7_Io81M9gPITxB7yTUTVq5anImASkEjHpn4UDfMSRA21Cwf5pdEQE4AqNnvFW/s320/decoverley+fridge.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311410287801484722" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ46VxQxyGMZ61mWHXVgwa7ujJgiW4EjuA3zLb_YblhDeLQ1FjGKsYKFZiln6VY_tYiShPYvcQL7kTqTu4QbV2nluDwB1AsM0LTyWhyphenhyphenuYnF0wgi6U6NizzLSQ-qB4U2SM20qht/s1600-h/decoverley+scholar.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 248px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ46VxQxyGMZ61mWHXVgwa7ujJgiW4EjuA3zLb_YblhDeLQ1FjGKsYKFZiln6VY_tYiShPYvcQL7kTqTu4QbV2nluDwB1AsM0LTyWhyphenhyphenuYnF0wgi6U6NizzLSQ-qB4U2SM20qht/s320/decoverley+scholar.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311409482909142498" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyMzlIXvvXXaW0_zW5r9R7TSGkprJZIXpMSdN7b9EIFX6bFfaQHkKAiSG003JHnsWuR6RLbF5MCzyTnMcmiQrZJblPaxYjWmKtqs9XAUjo6bmnID1OZn5cneeHjWEZAvhragX9/s1600-h/decoverley+car+door.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 246px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyMzlIXvvXXaW0_zW5r9R7TSGkprJZIXpMSdN7b9EIFX6bFfaQHkKAiSG003JHnsWuR6RLbF5MCzyTnMcmiQrZJblPaxYjWmKtqs9XAUjo6bmnID1OZn5cneeHjWEZAvhragX9/s320/decoverley+car+door.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311409477907859842" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnDdwtl4Yz3vCMA78un9r5PiUmySavTeyWVpIilGPlN3XQkWrpFi3GTqSppHg3DL9dFMrbKeYYJykjJ9xOM-GEDNEMAZYM5T2XtLVlLNXwniPd1tlHSnxwVeTM8JA7ElG3xuv2/s1600-h/decoverley+bottles.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 249px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnDdwtl4Yz3vCMA78un9r5PiUmySavTeyWVpIilGPlN3XQkWrpFi3GTqSppHg3DL9dFMrbKeYYJykjJ9xOM-GEDNEMAZYM5T2XtLVlLNXwniPd1tlHSnxwVeTM8JA7ElG3xuv2/s320/decoverley+bottles.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311409475854499138" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1xXQaVXC2e3UbgUGOriTG7pKnmdytaakjdlXdGnf0TFvJZdONcaVA-evKV5x2B4SE_uYfZ3GXJFi70nSDpwoiA2fDlTQus177LLY70qN6u3oewr7tgPYFugj42jkzH4o00KtE/s1600-h/decoverley+bed.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 245px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1xXQaVXC2e3UbgUGOriTG7pKnmdytaakjdlXdGnf0TFvJZdONcaVA-evKV5x2B4SE_uYfZ3GXJFi70nSDpwoiA2fDlTQus177LLY70qN6u3oewr7tgPYFugj42jkzH4o00KtE/s320/decoverley+bed.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311409473733204770" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_BA5C_dionXO9MGZvXx5uImIp3TTrMEr-Y3rZ6ZrRRxHJI9ZXJEw6oJk4QQgH0jDSyGxT5cCzBFCSfl1y515VI7kfG5Wr4tuu71dxCWUAX2X1e4lZf9YbfDeGovbIqd0Q9eBS/s1600-h/decoverley+sitting.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 246px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_BA5C_dionXO9MGZvXx5uImIp3TTrMEr-Y3rZ6ZrRRxHJI9ZXJEw6oJk4QQgH0jDSyGxT5cCzBFCSfl1y515VI7kfG5Wr4tuu71dxCWUAX2X1e4lZf9YbfDeGovbIqd0Q9eBS/s320/decoverley+sitting.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311409470883992338" /></a><div><br /></div><div><br /><br /><div><br /></div></div>Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-71095642338887014722009-02-28T16:18:00.000-05:002009-02-28T16:51:58.239-05:00Alternative Camera Assignment<img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 210px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil_1clul91WUd1aovHzufIPoCS5zKy2RBemB8qJtqLInLSmYBN6iWZEQe-EGRVq1_ki325O0FdQFlbiz5ItQGiAfSY4M7LwMjer3Qfd_0qsQY_7LGU8v_ucFYu7WForlSkhmUH/s320/converging+power+lines.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5307969127386796594" /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Dk88NoPfLOxYstJs6wJYnrOmYgN2t0MY1145fl_QenfovEa9Why90B7AoQ-3R9C7kMfDgvhK6whlIhetc6G8S1TZ4AAO2s05DRAJhv7olw3QIijt83DFatAtszZmJXruO2Gd/s1600-h/brandywine+field.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Dk88NoPfLOxYstJs6wJYnrOmYgN2t0MY1145fl_QenfovEa9Why90B7AoQ-3R9C7kMfDgvhK6whlIhetc6G8S1TZ4AAO2s05DRAJhv7olw3QIijt83DFatAtszZmJXruO2Gd/s320/brandywine+field.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5307966959049920578" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFBhG4q-22B65LTGvDOv-hXdTNp7NVmHGhfJlgELZOM00Np2WLn3QiIZ6WDF5NOnGKS1FKpHJiKvaNn3vOr-pf9GS0Glsh3lyFyIHqsL5zgMBPIldW6gHB1aDV594z7fj_q_Y4/s1600-h/volleyball+court.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFBhG4q-22B65LTGvDOv-hXdTNp7NVmHGhfJlgELZOM00Np2WLn3QiIZ6WDF5NOnGKS1FKpHJiKvaNn3vOr-pf9GS0Glsh3lyFyIHqsL5zgMBPIldW6gHB1aDV594z7fj_q_Y4/s320/volleyball+court.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5307966783754607778" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm7bJVpfNdS4rzyBNO7ewcXNiZ8RZVlj_WZjhyphenhyphenZtpo6uQjeXNrZaQHe2yiB67HJ3pHlLdjwEiIYzFP6WdCsxjacbboC6jTZSSG3uPr3PARvj0uSY_U3CHhwYj1z7k6rvOc1L-V/s1600-h/RV+power.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 220px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm7bJVpfNdS4rzyBNO7ewcXNiZ8RZVlj_WZjhyphenhyphenZtpo6uQjeXNrZaQHe2yiB67HJ3pHlLdjwEiIYzFP6WdCsxjacbboC6jTZSSG3uPr3PARvj0uSY_U3CHhwYj1z7k6rvOc1L-V/s320/RV+power.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5307966768438578050" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvlR0T7oEn_CKZ6VnHZvAYfx3yqzkrCP21Gjtrn8PToWMVF9NIX4XoxEgjZpVOUHAzTJx3_jP7fR65SExIubNIZNZyQaL2k-A6_63wYD_V2wqrwKgnZlkH9d2HVRjwjxDEbBhT/s1600-h/jogging+trail.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 212px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvlR0T7oEn_CKZ6VnHZvAYfx3yqzkrCP21Gjtrn8PToWMVF9NIX4XoxEgjZpVOUHAzTJx3_jP7fR65SExIubNIZNZyQaL2k-A6_63wYD_V2wqrwKgnZlkH9d2HVRjwjxDEbBhT/s320/jogging+trail.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5307966767749646402" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi2SiZ54v4ySaVL_7ot07PYSYxG3zvxatyz3baUXs5B0xEwo90L_ICmolI3BDlhhWVatM8apeyYjJV1xTn_fP4QvLZbY17_RH_rYjbp74bgveNVdOqGI3k6iBRaB8redvdAVIy/s1600-h/cable+ready+and+then+some.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi2SiZ54v4ySaVL_7ot07PYSYxG3zvxatyz3baUXs5B0xEwo90L_ICmolI3BDlhhWVatM8apeyYjJV1xTn_fP4QvLZbY17_RH_rYjbp74bgveNVdOqGI3k6iBRaB8redvdAVIy/s320/cable+ready+and+then+some.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5307966760466165762" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3vUcodnHyj24OL6uQIEWyQCyBNZmtiqbHylkrEz98SuJ0LVQaHn6yBm_t0hSzf8_9vSVst-plaiHkJsW-QmHko3hkSa2SgQagMmnntbQxd9Ku2n9-X85fcHFU0sxXcNfAvNnQ/s1600-h/coors.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 207px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3vUcodnHyj24OL6uQIEWyQCyBNZmtiqbHylkrEz98SuJ0LVQaHn6yBm_t0hSzf8_9vSVst-plaiHkJsW-QmHko3hkSa2SgQagMmnntbQxd9Ku2n9-X85fcHFU0sxXcNfAvNnQ/s320/coors.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5307966194091103762" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd_oSYlz0QChHWW6m0c3sus2vifU8OwqgqjDd0MrE1sC479KEjQAKyEDgvA2lIKNUF1Y9r43LGT3KagQbYDJfl95OUChe1Z07Y8lI4WqWc4beKAuprEO4TGjjLjCE7hHclTbU1/s1600-h/jog+power.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd_oSYlz0QChHWW6m0c3sus2vifU8OwqgqjDd0MrE1sC479KEjQAKyEDgvA2lIKNUF1Y9r43LGT3KagQbYDJfl95OUChe1Z07Y8lI4WqWc4beKAuprEO4TGjjLjCE7hHclTbU1/s320/jog+power.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5307966191438750354" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX1rUALSsSZzjaxQSfwBdGy37MdeCslhv4sAkyJiNsb1-yVYBfqoLnj3AmDGYZTBm_PJET0Sxij5_WwgAVlphuoC330jS-1QV7FihqAmqBVc0S9BiRqzf6y5XyfqzWPqD6siC_/s1600-h/notice+power.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX1rUALSsSZzjaxQSfwBdGy37MdeCslhv4sAkyJiNsb1-yVYBfqoLnj3AmDGYZTBm_PJET0Sxij5_WwgAVlphuoC330jS-1QV7FihqAmqBVc0S9BiRqzf6y5XyfqzWPqD6siC_/s320/notice+power.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5307966183989638770" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2SDgHxXl96XQzHe9P12QXABIxwsjOuxEaw-s8PFZOg7OGqkd4mxE4naXP0_TOwfy7jKzJFbV9klaJIMjUYKzAOZtN5QnpeuaRWZ6NPQT4XL9cNsWfsxQ_U_GydCXsMVFcIGys/s1600-h/thawing+diamond.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 216px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2SDgHxXl96XQzHe9P12QXABIxwsjOuxEaw-s8PFZOg7OGqkd4mxE4naXP0_TOwfy7jKzJFbV9klaJIMjUYKzAOZtN5QnpeuaRWZ6NPQT4XL9cNsWfsxQ_U_GydCXsMVFcIGys/s320/thawing+diamond.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5307966180600717218" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Os4AQqeSjHxwWoTIhRbRyD6EJISdLe3-70JbEr7K2_-6X_DVwA3hHanh8yk3W27ZcnhpOrebuZKEtz7aozXbrTP41Kec9iQ4V3xolkV3FT_0KwbZU1GyvvJPqnW60jJn5xYD/s1600-h/tangled+trees.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 211px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Os4AQqeSjHxwWoTIhRbRyD6EJISdLe3-70JbEr7K2_-6X_DVwA3hHanh8yk3W27ZcnhpOrebuZKEtz7aozXbrTP41Kec9iQ4V3xolkV3FT_0KwbZU1GyvvJPqnW60jJn5xYD/s320/tangled+trees.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5307966177080215138" /></a><br />It took me a couple of weeks to find the time to put this work up. It's just been one assignment after another--busy busy busy. This one was based on using "alternative cameras". This was of course an experiment that forces the photographer to consider what he or she is photographing based on what the camera "sees" or how it functions, quirks and all. God knows I have a plethora of what would be considered alternative cameras because I've been using them extensively for the past few years, but in the spirit of the assignment, I decided to get a new camera--a couple actually. I loaded each one with films of differing speeds because there is no other way of adjusting for changing light. One of the quirks that these cameras have concerns framing problems. It's similar to that of most Diana cameras, where the viewfinder is a little off in relation to what the lens sees. This camera is WAY off, and as a result, there is too much space to the right of and below almost all of what I was framing for. It takes some getting used to. My Holgas don't seem to have this problem, but my Diana does--same thing for a couple of students at school who used a Diana. The thing I liked most about the camera I used this time, was the angle of view--nice and wide. I purposely chose sweeping vistas for most of my shots, but I think the images where the subject is a bit closer work better. With many of these toy cameras, there is a lot of vignetting, although I think it's more a matter of having a blown-out center rather than dark corners. I think there is a difference and this should be taken into consideration when choosing film speed. This camera really plays up this sort of imagery, so that you see a wide view, but you're confined to the space with the boxing in of the corners. It's sort of like trying to capture a huge space in a small box. I had noticed the numerous power lines throughout the greater Philadelphia area and am fascinated by them. I think I'll try photographing them with a toy telephoto lens next time though to make them look even larger in relation to what exists below them. As for what I'll be using this camera for now--it's my new snapping camera. I like to have one with me at all times, and this one is just great fun. It really is good at getting a lot in at a closer range, and the color contrast is just crazy--especially with chrome film which has been cross-processed.Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-34362610459949755022009-01-29T00:04:00.001-05:002009-01-29T00:07:23.250-05:00Reinventing the Familiar: Family Photos<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLLZSZWBRr33UDLSExoyIVg3K185SZLmtWkjpNNGGPGu-St6mEU6SppemD12QfWjHaA20RUXxgBCGgaJZYrejfeWqTK0pieKK0G129m0-uE4cLCRk6Wu6wNzMXewUPLnsdTNDD/s1600-h/twisted+genetics2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLLZSZWBRr33UDLSExoyIVg3K185SZLmtWkjpNNGGPGu-St6mEU6SppemD12QfWjHaA20RUXxgBCGgaJZYrejfeWqTK0pieKK0G129m0-uE4cLCRk6Wu6wNzMXewUPLnsdTNDD/s320/twisted+genetics2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5296577847107596770" /></a><br />Homework due this week was fun and creative, not to mention, fairly easy. Just one image and it could be created however you chose. This was my take on a photo of my brother-in-law and his family. I thought it would be funny to use one person to portray all of the members of the family. I only had myself, so that's who I used. It's a creepy image, but it makes me laugh. Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-30017747498182606632009-01-08T21:37:00.000-05:002009-01-08T21:40:46.395-05:00Last in this series<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRXVGisJ12mRFfC5yOrl7YRJWU9RhPLoXmjwbLjWvGV9D4zGSBy4OGU1opLwXF71IYWwoR1Ytaf7H0JxplL_8K1w0XTLNHFzviU5BkBifCqjhrHi-tFr_piGL5k0c6uGxOlJEj/s1600-h/wrageblog7jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 318px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRXVGisJ12mRFfC5yOrl7YRJWU9RhPLoXmjwbLjWvGV9D4zGSBy4OGU1opLwXF71IYWwoR1Ytaf7H0JxplL_8K1w0XTLNHFzviU5BkBifCqjhrHi-tFr_piGL5k0c6uGxOlJEj/s320/wrageblog7jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289118342630305378" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnnDJyaJV2UWq2y3j5j19n0BbWVQ-yi_DhcZGTOzTsLQJLqJ6ZiLIjzSZ_Wf5VpGB4ytSJcYMJMxqQFHebAZfqh0qito8afvtAy2ohJTqRqcQvEmG8ezNEf2gIH8-orA_jlj2D/s1600-h/wrageblog8.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnnDJyaJV2UWq2y3j5j19n0BbWVQ-yi_DhcZGTOzTsLQJLqJ6ZiLIjzSZ_Wf5VpGB4ytSJcYMJMxqQFHebAZfqh0qito8afvtAy2ohJTqRqcQvEmG8ezNEf2gIH8-orA_jlj2D/s320/wrageblog8.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289118339129854706" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0x73Qbxt7Ss1V9Ha4f5qbZfGzFbRjxZA08EPX0lCtwecWCTyWMeh6p_I7a6NyEzN5EofW5findJTcm-T8eTS3XTwWBPZA_hBS-3WK0qOW8TtHZl3inqRRzKLyijSDu9L9KOw2/s1600-h/wrageblog9.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 319px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0x73Qbxt7Ss1V9Ha4f5qbZfGzFbRjxZA08EPX0lCtwecWCTyWMeh6p_I7a6NyEzN5EofW5findJTcm-T8eTS3XTwWBPZA_hBS-3WK0qOW8TtHZl3inqRRzKLyijSDu9L9KOw2/s320/wrageblog9.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289118341157649058" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje8J4X_qHzP1EnY4kp8L5oGNHZOfRKvK4jhBedVcxhGaY8UboVaNGO4_IF6G5TOrSiOpngCSyA0PwnbC8249xZ9SR-uADTMMbFRUs9SMqfSRaZMyvTKpBtqvU2n_5a_KrHaqI8/s1600-h/wrageblog13.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 319px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje8J4X_qHzP1EnY4kp8L5oGNHZOfRKvK4jhBedVcxhGaY8UboVaNGO4_IF6G5TOrSiOpngCSyA0PwnbC8249xZ9SR-uADTMMbFRUs9SMqfSRaZMyvTKpBtqvU2n_5a_KrHaqI8/s320/wrageblog13.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289118330261215154" /></a><br />These are the last few which I have digital files for in this series.Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-14435280558404855882009-01-08T21:29:00.001-05:002009-01-08T21:37:26.966-05:00Same series....<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvqwEsXrpbBU0GsIpTkTFw4fl496m8NfpD5V-vSt9ESYyvtJ6GR7mki0nrUuP30wcHdyfYTyAW3Cllutng7z1XzZGFGtEF3q6ErGVAL-S4HN__CPZIP1G22qkX1UuC9d6JejYY/s1600-h/wrageblog20.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvqwEsXrpbBU0GsIpTkTFw4fl496m8NfpD5V-vSt9ESYyvtJ6GR7mki0nrUuP30wcHdyfYTyAW3Cllutng7z1XzZGFGtEF3q6ErGVAL-S4HN__CPZIP1G22qkX1UuC9d6JejYY/s320/wrageblog20.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289117537570271762" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIe96PJ9HiLmBw-HnM3D9HZCqVcG-Niq9n5KaMfnsiWhaVQASdaiDnXerZjr0AOxmhPteydP6xX7v34BsMQP6jenqCST_ZLhJ17YW6PLkmkT_ONjZ_J9fUgLX2IRV6FreESaSf/s1600-h/wrageblog19.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 319px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIe96PJ9HiLmBw-HnM3D9HZCqVcG-Niq9n5KaMfnsiWhaVQASdaiDnXerZjr0AOxmhPteydP6xX7v34BsMQP6jenqCST_ZLhJ17YW6PLkmkT_ONjZ_J9fUgLX2IRV6FreESaSf/s320/wrageblog19.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289117534147751026" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ5iqFwtTzPKe8nz2ozamr5eQm2HArWmDC_ROFyhoSmkO8J1peKAFoOHM4nb_6mcvVoQjTOQIXFvIVvpegYP0iiB910L1E4-ywUiO4MdVVK3oXC2Y3vwqzPfknt92lLvg4KVCl/s1600-h/wrageblog12jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 318px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ5iqFwtTzPKe8nz2ozamr5eQm2HArWmDC_ROFyhoSmkO8J1peKAFoOHM4nb_6mcvVoQjTOQIXFvIVvpegYP0iiB910L1E4-ywUiO4MdVVK3oXC2Y3vwqzPfknt92lLvg4KVCl/s320/wrageblog12jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289117529883787506" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmuUZ4WElx7bQCNNfEnfJc9yFH1kHZ_szVsAYhi3IL_qYYo7p4ByLwa2uTtw5cA9CaQ4LiJp9fiG0IG8XYK5MyAySS2lmvJ8neG7x5oU_2PJjZ6WZuzFCrAIel0-4kiybkzuBV/s1600-h/wrageblog18.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmuUZ4WElx7bQCNNfEnfJc9yFH1kHZ_szVsAYhi3IL_qYYo7p4ByLwa2uTtw5cA9CaQ4LiJp9fiG0IG8XYK5MyAySS2lmvJ8neG7x5oU_2PJjZ6WZuzFCrAIel0-4kiybkzuBV/s320/wrageblog18.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289117525388020258" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWT5FQwnTSx5Iu1Gcv9cBGSs8Xq5_ks5mSwwHQqC-OD6BsUj6TrVi-vyeEMHQobNRtvOiivRfzIae9ltRPxFqP3GHMmU1kae6GL4keNEh1dAXsg8w_Ap35uxWRfruH06d3L7Qq/s1600-h/wrageblog16.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 318px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWT5FQwnTSx5Iu1Gcv9cBGSs8Xq5_ks5mSwwHQqC-OD6BsUj6TrVi-vyeEMHQobNRtvOiivRfzIae9ltRPxFqP3GHMmU1kae6GL4keNEh1dAXsg8w_Ap35uxWRfruH06d3L7Qq/s320/wrageblog16.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289117520558719698" /></a>Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26843075.post-54587724785764364562009-01-08T21:26:00.001-05:002009-01-08T21:28:53.984-05:00Some more from the same series<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZLT8t65MNUQ5Mm8zRIf2LI38Kgk1xFy2anxy7EffjovLxxl3S1T6SdSzxHhmp3N1PUPxjtz5sMMqDrNCasUGEd5G5oRT0JLalbCi6jr4Y-_qykWiINECJyEGXrcKM5Tw_5nsY/s1600-h/wrageblog17.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 316px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZLT8t65MNUQ5Mm8zRIf2LI38Kgk1xFy2anxy7EffjovLxxl3S1T6SdSzxHhmp3N1PUPxjtz5sMMqDrNCasUGEd5G5oRT0JLalbCi6jr4Y-_qykWiINECJyEGXrcKM5Tw_5nsY/s320/wrageblog17.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289115306364336402" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir1SSedfEYUy5AbqkeNmRmi4UQJN3-mpnALwxE3CbULXB27GdmkXNe1La9HNhGdJUhVEebvs_JLDI4d-yW0wLFBYoaNr8isDTdsvGm9cnHHXWtwiv2YA9h1hGNYwNH6G5xmSpR/s1600-h/wrageblog14.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 319px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir1SSedfEYUy5AbqkeNmRmi4UQJN3-mpnALwxE3CbULXB27GdmkXNe1La9HNhGdJUhVEebvs_JLDI4d-yW0wLFBYoaNr8isDTdsvGm9cnHHXWtwiv2YA9h1hGNYwNH6G5xmSpR/s320/wrageblog14.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289115305246815810" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Edw56fhQy5mpG0mx_85qmkNWZkrBpxefinT0-jIWi-4nob3AYnJYZGT5v_8O5PAeTRIfw43nks_mDgs5Pv5E9D_3QZp4TeqkBZMalo42uoIwXzEheETMqvcxq6eEG0SPs32P/s1600-h/wrageblog6.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Edw56fhQy5mpG0mx_85qmkNWZkrBpxefinT0-jIWi-4nob3AYnJYZGT5v_8O5PAeTRIfw43nks_mDgs5Pv5E9D_3QZp4TeqkBZMalo42uoIwXzEheETMqvcxq6eEG0SPs32P/s320/wrageblog6.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289115301618126018" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwJ3kHyLDtPDY9Q7iGOcCJm2Cis6Ge5nB3s_vGDL3pSpzsI0zSl2qiE6pvFatKxonNlJsFbpUKDILWX8QCVN92YMJq3GiHcxcT997IZUb5_HkB_MSeMOILnuLiXKFkE_6F8A-K/s1600-h/wrageblog5.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwJ3kHyLDtPDY9Q7iGOcCJm2Cis6Ge5nB3s_vGDL3pSpzsI0zSl2qiE6pvFatKxonNlJsFbpUKDILWX8QCVN92YMJq3GiHcxcT997IZUb5_HkB_MSeMOILnuLiXKFkE_6F8A-K/s320/wrageblog5.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289115300950815074" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr3rmgIU8A-yL3XJG2Trklt1fCtnnusRZ-co11irXGDDcNXguEW4Jh4QoRcypN1jpKvqiwKbg66VYuKTjZVA1KJCbCYgI1HQCDj3bI6ZgJ_wOOL0euqPDK_9T3YJD2zJZHNxqF/s1600-h/wrageblog3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr3rmgIU8A-yL3XJG2Trklt1fCtnnusRZ-co11irXGDDcNXguEW4Jh4QoRcypN1jpKvqiwKbg66VYuKTjZVA1KJCbCYgI1HQCDj3bI6ZgJ_wOOL0euqPDK_9T3YJD2zJZHNxqF/s320/wrageblog3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289115295189195314" /></a>Kellyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16811426267544405401noreply@blogger.com1